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Photo by H. Palmer 

MOUNT ALBERTA (11874 ft) FROM THE S.W. 
A Formidable Unclimbed Peak of the Range 



A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO 

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 
OF CANADA 



BY 
HOWARD PALMER 

AND 

J. MONROE THORINGTON 



FIRST EDITION 



PUBLISHED FOR 

THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB 

BY 

tibe 1Rnic??erbocI?er ipress 

NEW YORK 
I92I 



Flo9 



■r-j 



Copyright, 192 1 

by 

Howard Palmer 

and 

J. Monroe Thorington 

Printed in the United States of America 



SEP 23 192i 




g)C!.A624473 



Perpetual devotion to what man calls his 
business is only to be sustained by perpetual 
neglect of many other things. And it is not 
by any means certain that a man's business 
is the most important thing he has to do. 
—An Apology for Idlers. 

Robert Louis Stevenson 



PREFACE 

A LTHOUGH the time is by no means ripe for the 
^~^ making of a complete "Climber's Guide" to the 
Canadian Rockies, a summary of the existing infor- 
mation can scarcely fail to be of service. For so 
voluminous has their alpine literature become and so 
widely scattered are the items, that the present-day 
mountaineer has a well-nigh hopeless task to inform 
himself about a given district or peak. 

Commencing at the United States boundary, we 
have listed the named peaks of the Canadian Rockies 
above nine thousand feet in elevation as far north as 
Mount Sir Alexander, four hundred and fifty miles 
away. They riumber nearly four hundred and fifty. 
Under each is inserted a brief description and, wher- 
ever possible, concise directions for the climb, based 
generally upon the printed report of the first ascent. 
The names of the party and the principal references 
relating to the peak are also given. Naturally, in 
such a vast domain, many mountains have been 
climbed without the publication of records. The 
Dominion Topographical Survey alone has occupied 
an immense number of high peaks as stations about 
many of which particulars are lacking in the official 
reports. Unfortunately, therefore, one cannot pro- 
claim that a peak has not be'en climbed just because 
nothing has been printed about it, and the lack of data 
in these pages is not proof positive that the ascent has 
never been made. 



vi PREFACE 

For convenience of description, we have divided 
the country of the high mountains into regional groups 
as indicated by obvious boundaries, such as valleys, 
passes, and railways. The line of the Continental 
Divide serves as a thread of connection between the 
groups and gives a semblance of unity to the whole. 
Introducing each section is a terse enumeration of its 
outstanding features with mention of the means of 
access. The peaks of the Divide are then listed in 
alphabetical order, as are those situated to the east 
of the Divide and to the west of the Divide. Certain 
other group's removed from the Divide are discussed 
separately but in association with the sections of the 
Divide to which they are adjacent. 

The arrangement in general is progressive and con- 
tinuous from south to north. Part One includes the 
mountains from the International Boundary to the 
main line of the Canadian Pacific Railroad ; Part Two 
extends the description to the Mount Columbia group 
and Fortress lake; while Part Three embraces the 
Yellowhead Pass region, extending from Fortress lake 
to Mount Sir Alexander and Jarvis pass, beyond which 
the mountains become less typically alpine in character. 

No doubt the attempt to cover this enormous moun- 
tain system in the compass of a single small volume 
may seem somewhat heroic. We are fain to confess 
that, at times, it has seemed so to us. Yet there are 
mitigating circumstances of which perhaps the chief 
is the existence of most excellent maps, governmental 
and private. These have afforded a substantial 
groundwork for the interpretation of cloudy literary 
descriptions and for the correct location of the named 
peaks. Particularly would we allude to the Report 
and Atlas of the Interprovincial Boundary Survey 



PREFACE vii 

published in 191 7. This gives the first detailed and 
connected description of the Canadian Rockies, from 
the United States Boundary to the main Hne of the 
Canadian Pacific Railroad — an exceedingly important 
section of the range which was only scantily mapped 
before. All mountaineers will be eternally grateful 
for this work and no Climber's Guide to the Canadian 
Rockies would be in the least adequate without it, 
the section of the range to the north being better 
known. 

While the manuscript was in the press, Sheets 17, 18, 
and 19 of the Boundary Survey were issued, extending 
the series as far as the Lyell icefield. We have had 
the advantage, therefore, of utilizing these in prepar- 
ing Part Two. Other basic maps by the Dominion 
Topographical Survey, Dr. J. Norman Collie, and 
the Alpine Club of Canada are referred to elsewhere. 

For readers unfamiliar with the Canadian Rockies, 
it may be stated that the conditions under which 
mountaineering is carried on are vastly different from 
those prevailing in the Alps or other frequented 
mountain regions. Along the railroads alone are 
there places that can be regarded as climbing centers. 
Depart from these but a little and a pack train must be 
employed, so that far more time will be spent in travel 
than in actual climbing. The country away from the 
railway is in a primeval state. Trails are only nominal 
because so seldom traveled. They are usually ob- 
structed by fallen trees. Frequent mountain torrents 
and occasional rivers must be forded. The open 
gravel bars of their beds are highways wherever they 
can be so used. Everywhere veritable pioneer condi- 
tions prevail. 

The alpine hut is unknown and although at several 



viii PREFACE 



points it is possible to spend a night at a permanent 
camp, a light tent and camping outfit must be brought 
along by the traveler who wishes to work from lofty 
bivouacs. Swiss guides are available at Lake Louise, 
for expeditions long or short, and no more competent 
or agreeable companions could be desired. They 
have made a fine record in Canadian climbing history, 
practically all of the first ascents of important summits 
having been achieved by their aid. Their number 
is limited and the demand for their services great, so 
that arrangements should be made well in advance. 

In a book of this kind mistakes and defects are 
inevitable, particularly when it is the first in its field 
and has for its subject matter an immense, imperfecth^ 
explored mountain chain where the majority of the 
peaks are nameless. In part they will be due to our 
own ignorance, in part to lack of precision in the 
literature consulted, and in part to incorrect inter- 
pretation of the writings of others. We can only 
bespeak the indulgence of our fellow mountaineers 
and express the hope that, through their criticism and 
friendly cooperation, the most glaring errors and 
omissions may be remedied for the future. 

We acknowledge indebtedness to the works of 
Doctor J. Norman Collie, Sir James Outram, Pro- 
fessor A. P. Coleman, Mr. Walter D. Wilcox, the 
Dominion Topographical Survey, and particularly to 
the publications by the Alpine Club of Canada and 
by its indefatigable Director, Arthur O. Wheeler, 
Boundary Commissioner for British Columbia, who 
through his maps and explorations in the field has 
done yeoman service to lay open the treasures of this 
great range for the benefit of mountaineers. To Pro- 
fessor Charles E. Fay, climbers generally owe a debt 



PREFACE ix 



of gratitude for being one of the first to extol with 
voice and pen the claims of the Canadian Alps as a 
field for American mountaineers. " Appalachia, " of 
which Professor Fay has long been the devoted editor, 
was the first American periodical to print regularly 
accounts of ascents in the Canadian Rockies and to 
its teeming pages one must have constant recourse in 
tracing, the story of the conquest of the range. An- 
other pioneer, to whom present-day mountaineers owe 
much, is Mr. Samuel E. S. Allen. Of his early jour- 
neys and ascents around Lake Louise and to the south 
too little is heard now-a-days, for his accurate and 
detailed narratives are veritable foundation stones in 
the history of the mountains. Paradoxically enough, 
no peak of the range has been named in his honor and 
we take this opportunity of calling attention to the 
fact and of urging that the omission be remedied. 

In conclusion, we cannot emphasize too strongly 
that this book is, in the main, a digest of printed 
accounts of mountain climbs made by persons other 
than the authors. Accordingly, we are not able to 
vouch for the accuracy or the wisdom of the directions 
given. To the best of our knowledge and belief, they 
are substantially correct, but we can only offer them 
for what they may be worth as the best available. 

Where repeated ascents of a peak have been made, 
the Swiss guides generally have improved the original 
route. We would deprecate, therefore, the use of the 
book independently of their advice and cooperation, as 
such irQprovements seldom find their way into print. 

Howard Palmer 
J. Monroe Thorington 
New York City, 
June, 1921. 



Key Map 

to show S4 

Location of Sections. 




LIST OF SECTIONS 



Part One 

INTERNATIONAL BOUNDARY TO KICKING HORSE 

PASS 

SECTIONS PAGE 

I. — Akamina Pass TO Tornado Pass . . . i 

II. — Tornado Pass to Elk Pass . . . . 4 

HI. — Elk Pass to S. Kananaskis Pass — ^Joffre Group 9 

IV. — S. Kananaskis Pass to Palliser Pass — Sir 

Douglas Group. ..... 13 

V. — Palliser Pass to White Man Pass — King 

Albert and Royal Groups . . . • 17 

VI. — ^ White Man Pass to Simpson Pass — Assini- 

BOiNE Group . . . . . .21 

VII. — Simpson Pass to Vermilion Pass — Ball 

Group ....... 29 

VIII. — Peaks in the Environs of Banff ... 33 

IX. — Vermilion Pass to Kicking Horse Pass — Lake 

Louise Group ...... 38 

X. — Ottertail Group — West of the Divide . 64 

Part Two 

KICKING HORSE PASS TO FORTRESS LAKE 

XI. — Kicking Horse Pass to Howse Pass — Yoho- 

Waputik Group , . . . .71 

xi 



xii LIST OF SECTIONS 



XII. — Slate Mts. and Adjacent Peaks, East of the 

Divide ....... 85 

XIII. — Miscellaneous Groups, West of the Divide 

— Van Horne Group, etc. ... 90 

XIV. — Howse Pass to Bush Pass — Freshfield Group 93 

XV. — Bush Pass to Thompson Pass — Forbes-Lyell 

Group ....... 102 

XVI. — Murchison Group, East of the Divide . 109 

XVII. — Thompson Pass to Fortress Lake — Columblv 

Group . . . . . . .112 

XVIII, — Wood River Group, West of the Divide . 121 

Part Three 

YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION, FORTRESS LAKE TO 

JARVIS PASS 

XIX. — The Maligne Lake Country . . .128 

XX. — Fortress Lake to Athabasca Pass — Whirl- 
pool Group . . • . . . . 131 

XXI. — Columbia-Fraser Divide, West of Atha- 
basca Pass . . . . . . 136 

XXII. — Athabasca Pass to Yellowhead Pass . . 138 

XXIII. — Yellowhead Pass to Moose Pass . .153 

XXIV. — Moose Pass to Jarvis Pass — Robson, White- 
horn, LONGSTAFF, BeSS, AND SiR ALEXANDER 

Groups . .. . . , , -157 



LIST OF AUTHORITIES 
(With Reference Abbreviations as Used in the Text) 

1896 Camping in the Canadian Rockies. Reference by title 

W. D. Wilcox. Putnam. 
1902 Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies. C. 

^J. N. Collie and H. E. M. Stutfield. 
1905 In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies. O. 

James Outram. MacMillan. 

1909 The Rockies of Canada. - W. 

W. D. Wilcox. Second Edition. Putnam. 

1909 Guide to the Lake Louise District. W. (LL). 

W. D. Wilcox. Putnam. 
1911 Jhe Reeky Mountains of Canada. 

Alpina Americana No. 2. Alp. Amer. 

C. E. Fay. The American Alpine 

Club ($.85 postpaid, Williams & Wil- 

kins Co., Baltimore, Md.). 
19 II The Canadian Rockies; Old Trails and New. Co. 

A. P. Coleman. Unwin. 

1917 Alberta — B. C. Boundary Report and Atlas. ABC. 

Part I, 19 1 3-1 6. (Obtainable from the office of the 

Surveyor General, Ottawa, Atlas and Report $1.) 

19 1 7 Description of and Guide to Jasper Park. JP. 

Department of the Interior, Ottawa. 

Annual Reports Dept. of the Interior. 1886-93. Rept. Dept. Int 

Alpine Journal. (London.) A. J 

Appalachia. (Boston.) Appal 

Canadian Alpine Journal. C. A. J 

Geographical Journal (London). G. J 

Year Book of the German-Austrian Club. D, O. A. V 



191 6 "Recent Mountaineering in the Canadian Alps," by C. E. 

Fay. The Geographical Review, New York, vol. ii, p. 1-9. 

Map and illustrations. 
Annual Reports of the Minister of Lands, Victoria, B.C., 1913- 

1920. (Annual Reports of Progress on the Interprovincial 

Boundary Survey.) 
{Note: — Names of Swiss guides are printed in italics.) 

xiii 



PRINCIPAL MAPS OF THE CANADIAN 
ROCKIES 

From the International Boundary to the Main Line of the Cana- 
dian Pacific Railroad. 

I. Atlas accompanying Report of Alberta-British Columbia 
Boundary Commission. Part I, 191 7. Procurable from 
the Surveyor General, Dept. of the Interior, Ottawa. 
Report and Atlas $1.00. Map in 16 sheets, loc. each. 
Scale 1 :62500. 

For the Canadian Pacific Railway Belt. 

(Twenty miles each side of the line: Lake Louise group, 
Yoho-Waputik group. Slate Mts., Sawback range, Banff, etc.) 

1. Map of part of the Main Range of the Canadian Rockies 

adjacent to the Canadian Pacific railroad. Department 
of the Interior, 1903-7. (This map is contained in 
Alpina Americana, No. 2, 191 1, and in Wilcox's "Rockies 
of Canada," 1909.) Scale 1:160000. 

2. Map of the Rocky and Selkirk Mts,, between latitude 50° 

37' and 51° 44' N. and longitude 115° 55' and 118° 21' W. 
Department of the Interior, 1914. Scale i : 125000. Two 
sheets, the eastern is of the Rockies. 

3. Rocky Mountains between latitude 51° and 53° 10' in two 

sheets. Department of the Interior, 1910. Scale i: 

253440. 

4. Sectional Map, Sheet No. 163. "Donald.-' Scale 1:190080. 

Rockies and Selkirks on one sheet with shading. 5c. 
Surveyor General, Ottawa. 

5. Map of Rocky Mts. Park, 191 1. Scale 2 mi. = 1 in. Cov- 

ers Divide from Bow pass to Palliser pass and E. as far 
as Morley station on Can. Pac. R. R. 

XXV 



PRINCIPAL MAPS OP THE CANADIAN ROCKIES xv 

For the Mountains between the Canadian Pacific and Canadian 

National Railways. 

1. As far as latitude of Bow pass, see maps above listed. 

2. Maps accompanying Outram's "In the Heart of the Cana- 

dian Rockies." 1905. 

3. Map accompanying Collie's and Stutfield's "Climbs and Ex- 

ploration in the Canadian Rockies." 1902. (Also in G. J., 
xxi, p. 588.) 

4. Map accompanying Coleman's "The Canadian Rockies; 

Old Trails and New." 

5. Sectional Map. Sheet No. 213. "Athabasca," 1914. Scale 

I: 190080. 5c. Surveyor General, Ottawa. 

6. Map of central part of Jasper Park (6 sheets) by M. P. 

Bridgland, 1915. Scale i : 62500. 15c. per sheet. Same 
map on single sheet (Scale i: 125000), free. Depart- 
ment of the Interior. 

7. Map of Yoho group. C. A. J., i. No. i, p. 151. 

8. Sketch Map of Whirlpool sources. C. A. J., vi, p. 92. 

9. SketchMapofMalignelake. C.A. J.,vandG. J.,xxxix,p.38o. 
10. Map of Jasper Park. Scale 6 mi. = i in. Covers as far S. 

as Mt. Columbia. 
For the Mountains from Yellowhead Pass to Jarvis Pass. 

1. Reference 6 above. 

2. Preliminary map of the Canadian Rocky Mountains (52° 

53' N. — 54° 9' N.) Scale 1:300000. Bull. Am. Geog. 
Soc, New York, vol. xlvii. No. 7, 1915. 

3. Map of area between Canadian National R. R's and Bess 

pass. G. J., xxxix, p. 238. 

4. Topographical Map showing Mt. Robson and the Rocky 

Mountains adjacent to Yellowhead pass. A. O. Wheeler, 
191 1, Scale 1 : 120000. Free, Surveyor General's office, 
Ottawa. Also in Can. Alp. Jour., vol. iv and Eng. Alp. 
Jour., vol. xxvi, p. 404, 191 2. 

5. Sectional Map, Sheet No. 262. "Yellowhead," 19 16. Scale 

1 : 190080. 5c. Surveyor General's office, Ottawa. 



CHIEF GROUPS 
SOUTH OF BANFF 




Part One 

INTERNATIONAL BOUNDARY TO KICKING HORSE 

PASS 

Sections page 

I.-^Akamina Pass to Tornado Pass. . . . i 

II. — Tornado Pass to Elk Pass. . . . 4 

High Rock Range and Elk Mts. 

1. Peaks on the Divide. 

2, Other Peaks. 

III. — Elk Pass to Kananaskis Pass. .... 9 

Joffre Group. 

1. Peaks On the Divide. 

2. Peaks East of the Divide. 

3. Peaks West of the Divide. 

IV. — Kananaskis Pass to Palliser Pass .13 

Sir Douglas Group. 

1. Peaks On or Near the Divide. 

2. Peaks East of the Divide. 

v.— Palliser Pass to White Man Pass. .17 

King Albert Group. 
Royal Group. 
VI. — White Man Pass to Simpson Pass. . . .21 

Assiniboine Group. 

1. Peaks On the Divide. 

2. Peaks East of the Divide. 

3. Peaks West of the Divide. 

VII. — -Simpson Pass to Vermilion Pass. . . -29 

Ball Group. 

1. Peaks On the Divide. 

2. Peaks East of the Divide. 

3. Peaks West of the Divide. 

VIII. — ^Peaks in the Environs of Banff. . . -33 

IX. — 'Vermilion Pass to Kicking Horse Pass. . .38 
Lake Louise Group. 

1. Peaks On the Divide. 

2. Peaks East of the Divide. 

3. Peaks West of the Divide. 

X.— Ottertail Group, West of the Divide. . . .64 

xvii] 



PART ONE 

SECTION I 

Akamina Pass to Tornado Pass 

The air-line distance from the International Bound- 
ary to Tornado pass approximates seventy-five miles. 
Broadly speaking, this section of the range lies be- 
tween the drainage of the Flathead and Elk rivers on 
the west and that of the Waterton and Livingstone 
rivers on the east. The principal passes crossing 
the Divide are Akamina, the Kootenay series (South, 
Middle, and North), Ptolemy, the Crowsnest series 
(Tent, Crowsnest, and Phillips), North Fork and 
Tornado. 

The average altitude of peaks on the Divide is under 
9000', Mt. Ptolemy (9234'), the highest peak south of 
Crowsnest pass, and Mt. Erris (9320'), the highest 
peak north of that pass, being exceptions. 

East of the Divide, Mt. Blakiston (9600') is the 
highest summit in the area, while west of the Divide 
no peak reaches 9000'. 

The Crowsnest series of passes forms the divisional 
point between the Flathead range on the south and 
the High Rock range on the north. West of the 
Divide, the Government road to the International 



2 AKAMINA PASS TO TORNADO PASS 

Boundary forms a convenient means of access to the 
peaks and passes of the Divide, while on the Alberta 
side, a pack-trail extends southward as far as North 
Kootenay pass. Outfits may be taken from Pincher 
station on the Canadian Pacific railroad to the In- 
ternational Boundary in about three days. 

From the Crowsnest area, pack-trails also extend 
northward, close to the Divide, and on both sides of it, 
by which North Fork and Tornado passes may be 
reached. Many of the trails are in bad condition ow- 
ing to fallen timber. 

Mt. Blakiston. 9600'. ABC p. 92. Sheet #1. 
East of Continental Divide. 5 mi. N. of Akamina 
pass; S. of Blakiston brook. 5 mi. E. of S. Kootenay 
pass. 

Crowsnest Mt. 9138'. ABC, p. 62, Sheet #4. 
C. A. J., i, #1, p. 108; vii, p. 117. Isolated peak W. of 
the Livingstone range, 7 mi. N.E. of Crowsnest pass, 
E. of Continental Divide. 

1904 E. Whymper, T. Wilson and two Swiss guides. 
Route I. From Coleman station, Canadian Pacific railroad, 
follow Old Man river for 5 mi. to W.; turn N. by a trail lead- 
ing to a deserted lumber camp. Work above timberline across 
W. slopes to base of cliffs at N. W. angle. A series of chimneys 
penetrates the first cliff belt (400') to shale slopes leading to 
final dome, 1000' above. 

Route 2. On the north a large couloir offers a passage through 
the cliff belt. Much loose stone. 



AKAMINA PASS TO TORNADO PASS 



Mt. Darrah. (Gable). 9038'. ABC, p. 71, 74. ABC, 

Sheet #3 (Gable Mt.). On the Continental Divide. 
4 mi.S.E. of Corbin station, Canadian Pacific railroad. 

19 14 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Mt. Erris. 9320'. ABC, p. 96, 105. Sheet #5. 3 
mi. S. of North Fork pass. The highest point be- 
tween North Fork and Crowsnest passes. On the 
Continental Divide. 
1914 Ascended by the ABC Boundary Commission to 9296'. 

Gould Dome. 9495'. ABC, Sheet #5. C. A. J., 
viii, p. 136. S. of Tornado pass. 2 mi. E. of North 
Fork pass. E. of Continental Divide. 

Mt. Ptolemy. (Mummy). 9234'. ABC, p. 60, 
68. Sheet #4A. Apex of the Flathead range. 3 
mi. E. of Ptolemy pass on the Continental Divide. 
6 mi. S. of Crowsnest lake. . ' 

19 14 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Unnamed. 9020'. ABC, Sheet #6. W. buttress 
of Tornado pass on Continental Divide. 



vSECTION II 
Tornado Pass to Elk Pass 

This section of the Continental Divide is essentially 
a single continuous ridge of peaks throughout. It 
comprises the High Rock range and the Elk 
mountains. The air-line distance is about forty-five 
miles. 

Tornado Mt. (10169O is the highest peak. The 
area is drained by the Elk, White, and Palliser rivers 
(Kootenay drainage) on the west and by the Living- 
stone and Highwood rivers (South Saskatchewan 
drainage) on the east. 

No glaciers are mapped on or near the Continental 
Divide north of the International Boundary until 
Mt. Cornwell (9832') is reached, a distance of approxi- 
mately one hundred miles. Mt. Cornwell is situated 
on the Continental Divide about midway between 
Tornado pass and Elk pass. 

Access to the southerly portion of the group may be 
had from the trail up Oldman river on the east and 
from trails in the valleys of Line creek and Fording 
river on the west. Further north there is a trail up 
the Highwood river on the east and a road up Elk 
river on the west. 



TORNADO PASS TO ELK PASS 



(i) Peaks on the Divide 

Mt. Armstrong. 91 6i'. ABC, p. iii, 115. Sheet 
#7. 2 mi. N.E. of Fording River pass. E. of Mt. 
McLaren. 

19 1 5 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Baril Peak. 9387'. ABC, p. 107. Sheet #7. 2 
mi. S.E. of Fording River pass. E. of Mt. CornwelL 

Beehive Mt. 9492'. ABC, p. 107. Sheet #6. 8 
mi. N. of Tornado pass, between Tornado Mt. and 

Mt. Lyall: 

Mt. Bishop. 9200'. ABC, Sheet #8. 4 mi. N.W. 
of Weary Creek gap. N.W. of Mt. McPhail. S.E. 
of Mt. Loomis. 

Mt. CornwelL- 9832'. ABC, p. 107. Sheet #7. 
S. buttress of Fording River pass. W. of Baril peak 
On the northerly flanks of this mountain occur the 
first mapped glaciers on the Continental Divide N. 
of the International Boundary. 

Mt. Etherington. 9300'. ABC, Sheet #7. 5 mi. 
S. of Fording River pass. S. of Baril peak. N. of 
Mt. Scrimger. 

' Mt. Farquhar. 9400'. ABC, Sheet #7. N. of 
Mt. Pierce. 



TORNADO PASS TO ELK PASS 



Mt. Gass. 9450'. ABC, Sheet #6. N.W. of Mt. 
Lyall, between Chauncey creek and Oldman river 
sources. 

Mt. Loomis. 9100'. ABC, Sheet #8. N.W. of 
Mt. Bishop. 

Mt. Lyall. 9680'. ABC, Sheet #6. 10 mi. N. of 
Tornado pass. S.E. of Mt. Gass. The highest peak 
between Tornado Mt. and Fording River pass. 

Mt. McHarg. 9476'. ABC, p. 129, 131. Sheet 
#10. 2 mi. S.W. of S. Kananaskis pass. N.W. of 
Mt. Defender. 

1916 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Mt. McLaren. 9400'. ABC, Sheet #7. 4 mi. N. 
of Fording River pass. N.W. of Mt. Armstrong. 

Mt. McPhail. 9500'. ABC, Sheet #8. N. of 
Weary Creek gap; the S. peak of the Elk Mountains. 
S.E. of Mt. Bishop. 

Mt. Pierce. 9350'. ABC, Sheet #7. S. of Mt. 
Farquhar. N. of Mt. O'Rourke (8500'). The high- 
est summit is W. of the Divide. 

Mt. Scrimger. 9000'. ABC, Sheet #7. 8 mi. S. 
of Fording River pass. S. of Mt. Etherington. 

Mt. Storelk. 9405'. ABC, p. 115. Sheet #9. 5 
mi. S.E. of Elk pass. S-.E. of Mt. Tyrwhitt. 
1916 ABC Boundary Commission. 



TORNADO PASS TO ELK PASS 



Tornado Mt. {Gould Dome). 10169'. ABC, p. 
102, 105.- Sheets #5A and #6. C. A. J., viii, p. 136. 
E. buttress of Tornado pass. The highest peak of the 
High Rock range. The first peak over loooo' N. of 
U. S. Boundary; 70 mi. distant from same. 

19 1 5 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Mt. Tyrwhitt. 9428'. ABC, p. 1 19. Sheets #9 and 
#9A. S. buttress of Elk pass. N.W. of Mt. Storelk. 

19 1 5 ABC Boundary Commission, 

Unnamed. ABC, Sheet #6. ABC, p. 107. 

1. Between Tornado Mt. and Beehive Mt.: 
Peaks: 9600', 9200', 9800', 9200', 9400', 9100', 9600'. 

2. Between Beehive Mt. and Mt. Lyall: 
Peak: 9000'. 

Grey limestone peaks with knife-edge ridges. Pre- 
cipices on the Alberta vside and very little permanent 
snow. 

(2) Other Peaks 

Mt. Arethusa. 9050'. ABC, Sheet #9. 4 mi. 
N.E. of Elk pass. N.E. of Mt. Tyrwhitt. E. of 
Highwood pass (Storm creek-Pocaterra creek). 

Mt. Courcelette. 9977'. ABC, p. 84, 108, no. 
Sheet #7. 4 mi. S. W. of Fording River pass. S.W. 
of Mt. Cornwell in N.E. angle between Henretta 
creek and Fording river. W. of Continental Divide. 

19 1 5 ABC Boundary Commission. 



TORNADO PASS TO ELK PASS 



Mist Mt. 10030'. ABC, p. III. Index Sheet. 
E. of Mist and Storm creeks. E. of Continental 
Divide. 

Mt. Rae. 10160'. ABC, Index Sheet. E. of 
Continental Divide. E. of Kananaskis river, N. of 
High wood pass. 



SECTION III 
Elk Pass to South Kananaskis Pass. 

(Mt. Joffre Group) 

This fine cluster of peaks lies between Elk pass and 
South Kananaskis pass, a distance of about fifteen 
miles as the water-parting runs. The group occurs at a 
sharp angle in tHe Divide where it transfers from one 
element of the parallel series of ranges that constitute 
the typical formation of the Rockies to the next 
westerly element. The culminating summit is Mt. 
Joffre (11316O. 

Glaciers are numerous and extensive on the higher 
slopes and here the snow and ice scenery so character- 
istic of the loftier portions of the Canadian Rockies 
may be said to commence. It extends almost contin- 
uously to the Mt. Bess group two hundred and sixty 
miles to the north. 

On the northeasterly flanks of the group lie the 
attractive Kananaskis lakes, while across the Divide 
to the south are the smaller Elk lakes whence the Elk 
river flows. 

The best route of approach is from Banff by way of 

9 



lo MT. JOFFRE GROUP 

the Spray and Kananaskis rivers to Elk pass. Six 
days should be allowed for the pack-train journey. 
There is also a good trail from Morley on the Canadian 
Pacific to the Kananaskis lakes. On the west, a trail 
from upper Columbia lake leads up the Kootenay and 
Palliser river valleys and branches up Joffre creek, 
draining the westerly flanks of the group. 

(i) Peaks on the Divide 

Mt. Cordonnier. 9910'. ABC, Sheet #10. E. of 
Joffre creek. S. of Mt. Warrior. N. of Mt. Mangin. 

Mt. Foch. 10430'. ABC, Sheet #9. 5 mi. W. 
of Elk pass. N.E. of Mt. Petain. W. of Mt. Fox. 
S. of upper Kananaskis lake. 

Mt. Fox. 9752'. ABC, Sheet #9. Between Elk 
pass and Mt. Foch. 

Mt. Jofifre. 11316'. ABC, p. 126, 128. C. A.J., 
xi, p. 19. Sheets #9 and #10. 50 mi. S. of Banff. 
S. E. of Mt. Mangin. S. W. of Mt. Petain. Head- 
waters of White river. The highest peak of the 
Divide between the International Boundary and Mt. 
Assiniboine. The large glacial system on the E. sup- 
plies the farthest sources of Elk river. 

19 19 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, Jr. 

From camp on Hidden lake, 6 mi. N. of Mt. Joffre and inmiedi- 
ately N. E. of Mt. Lyautey proceed through dense timber, alders 
and scrub. A level about 500', above camp is reached and a 
gradually ascending route taken toward the peak; 3 hrs. to 



MT. JOFFRE GROUP ii 

timberline and 45 min. longer to the edge of the Mangin glacier. 
Rope at about 9500', the route over the glacier gradually bearing 
to the left to the rocks. A steep wall is ascended to a snow 
saddle in the N. E. arete from whence the summit is reached 
without difficulty. 

Ascent from camp 7 hrs., 10 min. Descent from peak to the 
glacier in 2 hrs. 15 min. Total time from camp 12 hrs. 45 min. 

Mt. Mangrn. 10030'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. W. of 
Mt. Joffre. S. E. of Mt. Cordonnier. Head of Man- 
gin glacier. 

Mt. Petain. 10400'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. E. of 
Mt. Joffre. Head of Petain glacier. 

Mt. Warrior. 9600'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. of Mt. 
Cordonnier. Head of Aster creek. 

(2) Peaks East of the Divide 

Mt. Lyautey. 9990'. ABC, Sheet #10. S. W. 
angle between Foch creek and upper Kananaskis 
river. Head of Lyautey glacier. N. E. of Mt. North- 
over. 

Mt. Marlborough. 9700'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. 
of Mt. Petain at head of Foch creek. 

Mt. Northover. loooo'. ABC, Sheet #10. S. W. 
of Mt. Lyautey. N. of Mt. Warrior. W. of Aster 
creek. 

Mt. Sarrail. 10400'. ABC, Sheet #9. S. of upper 
Kananaskis lake. Adjoins Mt. Foch on N. 



12 MT. JOFFRE GROUP 

(3) Peaks West of the Divide 

Mt. Abruzzi. io7oo\ ABC, Sheet #9. Head of 
Abruzzi creek, between Elk and White rivers. S. E. 
of Mt. Cadorna. 

Mt. Aosta. 9790'. ABC, Sheet #9. S. of Elk lakes 
N. E. of Mt. McCuaig. 

Mt. Cadorna. 10280'. ABC, Sheet #9. S. of 
Cadorna lake. E. of White river. N. of Mt. Abruzzi. 

Mt. Castelnau. 9800'. ABC, Sheet #9. S. W. of 
upper Elk lake. S. E. of Mt. Petain. N. E. of Mt-" 
Nivelle. Head of Castelnau glacier. (White river.) 

Mt. Defender. 9250.' ABC, Sheet #10. 4 mi. 
S. of S. Kananaskis pass. S. of Mt. McHarg. 

Mt. McCuaig. 9300.' ABC, Sheet #9. W. of 
Nivelle creek. E. of Mt. Nivelle. S. E. of Mt. 
Castelnau. 

Mt. Nivelle. 10620.' ABC, Sheet #9. S. W. of 
Mt. Castelnau. S. E. of Mt. Joffre between upper 
Elk lake and White river. 

Mt. Onslow. 9150'. ABC, Sheet #10. S. of Mt. 
Defender. N. E. angle between Joffre creek and 
Palliser river. 



SECTION IV 
South Kananaskis Pass to Palliser Pass. 

(Sir Douglas Group) 

The Mt, Sir Douglas group occupies about eight 
miles of the Continental Divide between the South 
Kananaskis pass and Palliser pass. The principal 
peaks occur in a compact cluster some three miles east 
of Palliser pass, culminating in Mt. Sir Douglas 
(11174'). The group is drained by the Spray and 
Kananaskis rivers on the east and the Palliser river 
on the west. Palliser pass connects the- sources of the 
Spray and Palliser rivers. The group is reached by 
branch trails from the Kananaskis lakes, the latter 
connecting with the Canadian Pacific railroad by 
good trails to Banff and Morley stations. 

(i) Peaks On or Near the Divide 

Mt. Beatty. 9841'. ABC, 132, 136. Sheet #10. 
C. A. J., xi, p, 17. Between N. and S. Kananaskis 
passes. 

1916 ABC Boundary Commission. 

13 



14 SIR DOUGLAS GROUP 



1919 J. W. A. Hickson, A. C. Stead, E. Feuz, Jr. 
From camp at head of LeRoy creek under W. side of the mount- 
ain, 3 hrs. easy cHmbing to the ridge. Follow N. ridge to the 
summit. Interesting climbing. Rope advisable. 

Mt. Sir Douglas. 11 174'. ABC, 134, 135. Sheet 
#11. C. A. J., xi, p. 9. A. J., xxxiii, p. 204. 3 mi.E 
of Palliser pass. Between Mt. Williams and Mt. 
Robertson. The highest peak between Palliser and 
N. Kananaskis passes. 

19 19 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, Jr. 

Route I. From camp i mi. N. of Palliser pass, cross the valley to 
E. and reach the N. W. side of the mountain. Here two parallel 
glaciers descend to 7500' and 7000' respectively. Ascend the 
western glacier; easy going for a half hour, after which the snow 
becomes hard and steep. Bear to the right through crevasses 
(2 hrs.) to a point near the top of the glacier where a traverse is 
made on steep ice (nearly 60°) to the W. arete (5 hrs. from camp). 
The arete is shaly and rotten; some steep pinnacles must be 
circumvented. Follow the ridge for a half hour, then traverse a 
short distance to the right and ascend a big couloir up the W. face. 
From the top of the couloir traverse to left and ascend a short 
couloir to loose rocks below the first summit (7 hrs. 15 min. from 
camp). The E. and highest summit (lOo' higher) is quickly 
reached over a sharp rock ridge. 

Descent to foot of glacier 2 hrs. 45 min.; total from camp 12 hrs. 
Route 2. Incomplete ascent via the S. W. ridge and S. face. 
19 19, V. A. Fynn, R. Aemmer. The S. W. ridge could not be 
followed throughout its entirety because of an impassable gen- 
darme in its upper portion. A traverse was made to steep and 
difficult rock on the S. face and a point about 700' below the 
summit gained. 

Mt. Leroy. 9650.' ABC, Sheet #10. 2 mi. S. E. 
of Palliser pass at head of Palliser river. 



SIR DOUGLAS GROUP 15 



Mt. Maude. 9980'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. but- 
tress of N. Kananaskis pass. S. of Mt. Robertson. 

Mt. Monro. 10145'. ABC, Sheet #11. A. J., 

xxxiii, p. 205. W. and S. of Continental Divide. 3 

mi. E. of Palliser pass. S. of Mt. Sir Douglas. A 
rock peak probably difficult on the S. W. 

Mt. Robertson, 10400'. ABC, Sheet #11. N. of 
Mt. Maude. E. of Mt. Sir Douglas. 

Mt. Williams. 9000'. E. buttress of Palliser pass. 
W. of Mt. Sir Douglas. ABC, Sheet #11. 

(2) Peaks East of the Divide 

Mt. Birdwood. 10160'. ABC, Sheet #11. 4 mi. 
N. E. of Spray pass. 6 mi. N. of Palliser pass. S. E. 
of Mt. Smuts. Head of Birdwood creek. 

Mt. Burstall. 9050'. Between Burstall and 
French creeks. 4 mi. N. E. of Palliser pass. ABC, 
Sheet #11. 

Mt. French. 10610' ABC, Sheet #11. Head of 
upper Kananaskis river, between Mt. Robertson and 
Mt. Smith-Dorrien. 3 miles N. E. of Palliser pass. 

Mt. Jellicoe. 10065'. ABC, Sheet #11. ABC, p. 
135. Head of upper Kananaskis river. S. E. of 
Mt. Sir Douglas. Boundary Survey Camera Station. 



1 6 SIR DOUGLAS GROUP 

Mt. Murray. 9920'. ABC, Sheet #11. S. angle 
between French creek and upper Kananaskis river. 
N. of Mt. Smith-Dorrien. 

Mt. Putnik. 9550'. ABC, Sheet #10. 2 mi. E. of 

S. Kananaskis pass. N. W. an2:le between Three Isle 
creek and upper Kananaskis river. 

Mt. Smith-Dorrien. 10300'. ABC, Sheet #11. 
Head of upper Kananaskis river. N. E. of Mt. French. 

Mt. Smuts. 9600'. ABC, Sheet #11. A. J., xxxiii, 
p. 195. Between Spray and Kananaskis rivers, N. 
W. of Mt. Birdwood. Looks difficult from Palliser 
pass. 



SECTION V 

Palliser Pass to White Man Pass. (King Albert and 

Royal Groups) 

(The King Albert Group) 

The King Albert group includes the peaks on and 
near the Continental Divide between Palliser pass and 
White Man pass, a distance of about six miles: Mid- 
way between the two, Spray pass crosses the Con- 
tinental Divide. The King Albert massif serves as a 
connecting link between the Royal group and the 
Continental Divide. 

The route of approach is from Kananaskis lakes 
by way of the Spray river trail. 

Mt. King Albert. 98oo^ ABC, p. 138. Sheet #1 1 . 
2 mi. W. of Palliser pass. W. of Mt. Queen EHzabeth 
on the Continental Divide. 

Mt. Back. 9883'. ABC, p. 138, 139. Sheet #10. 
2 mi. S. W. of Palliser pass. S. W. of Mt. King 
Albert. S. of the Divide. Between Albert and 
Palliser rivers. 

19 16 ABC Boundary Commission. 

17 



i8 THE ROYAL GROUP 

Mt. Queen Elizabeth. 9349'. ABC, p. 138, 139. 
Sheet #11. W. buttress of Palliser pass. E. of Mt. 
King Albert. On the Continental Divide. 

19 1 6 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Mt. Vavasour. 9350'. ABC, Sheet #11. W. of 
Spray river, 2 mi. N. of Spray pass and 3 mi. S. E. of 
White Man pass. E. of the Divide. 

Mt. Warre. 9050'. ABC, Sheet #11. 2 mi. E. of 
White Man pass. S. angle between White Man creek 
and Spray river. E. of the Divide. 

Mt. White Man. 9768'. ABC, p. 140. Sheet #11. 
S. of White Man pass. On the Continental Divide, 
head of Cross river. 

(The Royal Group) 

This is a notable group of seven distinct peaks situ- 
ated "eight miles almost due south from Palliser pass> 
on the west side of the Palliser river which separates 
it from the northerly ridges of the Mt. Joffre group, 
lying to the east of that river. Its towers, precipitous 
walls, and glaciers make it a landmark from all sides. 
It is distant about eight miles southwesterly from the 
Continental Divide to which it is joined by the south- 
erly ridges of the King Albert group. 

The Royal group is best reached from Palliser pass, 
but is not visible from this pass, being hidden by two 
unnamed peaks on Tipperary creek adjoining Mt. 



THE ROYAL GROUP 19 

Back on the S. E. The northern of these two peaks 
was traversed from S. E. to N. W. in 1919 by V. A. 
Fynn, R. Aemmer, and party. From PalHser pass, a 
good trail leads down the western slope to Palliser 
lake; below this the trail is poor, with much fallen 
timber, iintil the mouth of Tipperary creek is passed. 
Camp on south side of Royal creek. 

Mt. King George. 11226'. ABC, p. 131, Sheet #10. 

C. A. J., xi, p. 28. A. J., xxxiii, p. 195-206. W. of 

Palliser river, 7 mi. S. W. of Palliser pass, 45 nii. S. of 

Banff. 

19 19 V. A. Fynn, R. Aemmer. 

Ascend ridge guarding S. side of Royal valley; much fallen 
timber; 2}i hrs. to timberline. Bivouac in first gorge W. of 
Royal valley. Cross grass, scree, and snow patches to foot of 
steep rock wall, above which is a small sheltered valley with a few 
trees. A snow couloir, some steep rocks, and a traverse eastward, 
lead to this basin whence flats E. of Mt. Prince George are reached 
without difficulty (2 hrs. 20 min.). Traverse loose shale to small 
glacier and skirt same along its northern edge until the S. ridge of 
Mt. Prince George is reached. Cross to the King George glacier 
and ascend into the cirque between Mts. King George and Prince 
Albert {^}4 hrs.). Cross large bergschrund (often difficult) with 
steep ice above, leading to a firm but steep rock rib, just north of 
the hanging glacier on the E. face of Mt. King George. The 
upper portion of the rock rib is brittle and an ice ridge (step- 
cutting) leads to the main N. arete. {2% hrs.) Thence the 
summit is reached (2 hrs.) over fairly difficult rock and snow. 
Ascent from bivouac, 1 1 hrs. ; descent 7 hrs. 

Mt. Prince Albert. 10530'. , Both peaks can be 
easily reached from the head of King George glacier. 



20 THE ROYAL GROUP 

Mt. Prince Edward. 10590'. The best climb after 
Mt. King George. Reached from Royal valley, up 
E. face to gap between it and Mt. Prince Henry, 
whence either peak can be gained by traversing to 
their W. aretes. 

Mt. Prince George. 9450'. A shale slope on S., 
side; can be easily climbed. 

Mt. Prince Henry. 10560'. See Mt. Prince 
Edward. 

Mt. Prince John. 10570'. A secondary summit 
of Mt. Queen Mary and can readily be reached from 
summit of the latter. 

Mt. Princess Mary. 10090'. A good but not 
difficult climb. Could be reached from King George 
glacier via the N. ridge. 

Mt. Queen Mary. 10600'. The N. peak of the 
group. Could be reached from Palliser pass and 
climbed from a bivouac on the pass, N. of 
the peak. The easiest approach is from the W., with 
the next best route from the N. E. (See also Mt. 
Prince John). 



SECTION VI 
White Man Pass to Simpson Pass 

(Assiniboine Group) 

The Assiniboine group is one of the most famous 
in the Canadian Rockies owing to its comparative 
ease of access and to the enchantment of its scenery. 
It is situated eighteen miles southwest of Banff. Mt, 
Assiniboine (11870') rises in a striking pyramid high 
above its neighbors and is visible from vast distances 
on every side. The passes of the Divide are White 
Man, Wonder, Assiniboine, Citadel, and Simpson. 
A number of peaks in the group remain unclimbed. 

The group is reached from Banff by either of two 
routes, each requiring about three days' travel with a 
pack outfit. The west route follows the Bow valley 
and Healey creek towards Simpson pass. Four miles 
below the summit of the latter a trail branches south 
and, after four miles more, joins the Simpson pass 
trail, leading southeasterly to the mountain across 
Citadel pass. The east route follows the Spray river 
and then up an eastern tributary to Spray lakes; thence 
via the Spray river and Bryant creek, crossing the 

2X 



22 ASSINIBOINE GROUP 

watershed at Assiniboine pass and joining the Simpson 
river trail. 

(i) Peaks On the Divide 

Mt. Assiniboine. 11870'. ABC, p. 48. A. J., 
xviii, p. 397; xxi, p. 102. Appal., x, p. 43; xii, p. 233. 
C. A. J.,i, #i,p. 90;ii, #i,p. 10. 0.,p. 38. W., p. 109. 
Continental Divide. Highest peak between Inter- 
national Boundary and the Canadian Pacific railroad. 
Headwaters of Spray, Cross, and Simpson rivers. 

1901 J. Outram, C. Bohren, C. Hdsler. 

Route I. Via the S. W. face. From camp on Lake Magog, cross 
flats to the first snow (20 min.), then up hard steep slopes and a 
craggy wall to loose debris and ice of the N. glacier. Cross the 
glacier to the Assiniboine- Wedgwood col, 9200', (Outram's " ist 
pass"; 40 min.); descend slightly on the far side to the glacier 
and cross to the Assiniboine-Sturdee col (Outram's -'2nd pass," 
9600'), at the base of the W. arete. At this level, traverse narrow 
but not difficult ledges across the S. W. face to the S. W. ridge 
(9500'). From this point (4.5 hrs.) ascend ledges of debris and 
loose rock to the foot of a 70' cliff wall (at about 10750'). A 
short distance N., a broad snow couloir, trending upward toward 
the Assiniboine-Lunette depression, is crossed to a point where 
the cliff recedes and merges into the S. W. face. The face is as- 
cended diagonally over steep ledges and escarpments, interspersed 
with slopes of ice and snow (step-cutting). The S. arete is 
reached at a point 300' below the summit which is then gained by 
means of an easy ridge of snow. Ascent from Lake Magog, 10 
hrs. ; from 9500' on S. W. arete, 5.5 hrs. Descent by Route 2, 6 hrs. 

1903 W. Douglas, C. Hdsler f C. Kaufmann. O., p. 71. A. J., 

xxxiii, p. 207. 

Route 2. Via the N. arete. This was the route of descent taken 



ASSINIBOINE GROUP 23 

by Outram. It should only be attempted when the snow is in 
good condition. The N. glacier is reached from Lake Magog and 
is crossed, the general line of ascent being the narrow ar^te in 
the center of the face. From Lake Magog to foot of Wedgwood 
peak, 20 min. ; up rocks of somewhat steep wall, traversing 
gradually .to S. E. (left) to reach glacier at north foot of moun- 
tain: (2 hrs. 50 min.). Lowest rocks of N. ridge in 45 min. ; ascend 
via N. W. face, gradually working onto the N. ridge and follow- 
ing it to the sumxmit. Two almost perpendicular cliffs divide the 
face and ridge into distinct sections, the rock walls affording good 
climbing. The ridge above the second cliff also offers good 
climbing, but the remainder is, as a rule, quite easy. Ice usually 
necessitates much step- cutting. To lower rocky N. summit, 5.5 
hrs. ; main summit 40 min. more. Descent to wall of Wedgwood 
peak, including i hr. on N. summit, 6 hrs. The ascents from 
A. C. C. camp 1920 were all made by this route which under favor- 
able snow conditions is considered easier and shorter than Route 
I. Several ascents in 1920 were made via the N. arete in slightly 
more than 3.5 hrs. from the N. glacier, or in a little over 6 hrs. 
from camp on Lake Magog. 

1910 T. G. Longstaff, R. Aemmer. C. A. J., iii, p. 174. 
Route 3. Via the N. W.face. To the Assiniboine-Sturdee col at 
the base of the S. W. arete as in Route i. Traverse back, up the 
steep snow of the N. W. face (step-cutting) and via the middle of 
the face to avoid ice couloirs. Constant step-cutting except for 
two vertical 15' bands of rock. The final cliff is almost devoid of 
handholds for the first 12' and the rocks are usually icy. 60' 
above, step-cutting over steep snow leads to the summit. Ascent 
from Lake Magog, 9 hrs. ; descent by Route 2, 11 hrs. 

Mt. Aye. 10640'. ABC, p. 52, 146. S. of Lunette 
peak. N. W. of Mt. Eon. 

Mt. Cautley. 9418'. ABC, p. 148, S. E. buttress 
of Assiniboine pass, N. of Wonder peak. 



24 ASSINIBOINE GROUP 



Mt. Eon. 10680'. ABC, p. 52, 146. 3 mi. W. of 
Marvel pass. S. E. of Mt. Aye. S. W. of Mt. Gloria. 

Fatigue Mt. 9667'. R. D. I., 1890, ii, p. 45. 
ABC, 50, 56. Sheet #13. Between Citadel and 
Fatigue passes, head of Fatigue creek. 
1889 W. S. Drewry. 

Mt. Gloria. 9500'. ABC, Sheet #12. W. but- 
tress of Marvel pass. N. E. of Mt. Eon. 

Lunette Peak. {Lost peak.) 11 150'. ABC, Sheet 
#12. O., p. 62. Highest point on the S. arete of Mt. 
Assiniboine. N. of Mt. Aye. 

1901 J. Outram, C. Bohren, C. Hdsler. 

From Lake Magog via the Wedgwood-Assiniboine and Sturdee- 
Assiniboine cols to the Assiniboine S. W. arete as in Route i for 
Mt. Assiniboine. From this point, ascend loose rock's and debris 
to the foot of the wall (at 10750'). Traverse the base of the wall 
for a short distance to S. where a narrow 15' chimney with firm 
holds permits an ascent. A narrow ridge running up from the 
W. to the summit of Lunette peak can now be reached over steep 
ledges and followed to the top. This summit was ascended by 
Outram in mistake for Mt. Assiniboine. 

Mt. Magog. 10050'. ABC, Sheet #12. N. E. 
of Mt. Assiniboine. W. of Mt. Terrapin. 

1920 Graduating climb from camp of the Alpine Club of 
Canada. 

1920 Traverse of Naiset peak, Mt. Terrapin, and Mt. Magog by 

party under leadership of A. H. MacCarthy. 

From Lake Magog, ascend Naiset, a not difficult Qlimb, via the j^f., 



ASSINIBOINE GROUP 25 

ridge. Descend the S. arete 600' to the Naiset- Terrapin col, 
ascending the latter peak by steep crags, an ice couloir and ledges. 
Descend W. arete of Terrapin to the Terrapin- Magog col ascend- 
ing the latter peak over rock and snow. Descend the S. arete, 
700' of steep pitch, much overhanging, to the Magog-Assiniboine 
col whence the lake is regained. Rock is firm and climb un- 
usually interesting. 

Nasswald Peak. 9985'. ABC, p. 50. Sheet #13. 
S. E. buttress of Fatigue pass. 

Mt. Red Man. 9493'. ABC, p. 143, 144. Sheet 
#12. N. W. buttress of White Man pass. 

19 16 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Mt. Terrapin. 9600'. ABC, Sheet #i2A. N, E. 
of Mt. Magog. S. W. of Mt. Towers. 

19 1 5 L. Jeffers, K. Kain. 

Mt. Towers. 9337'. ABC, p. 146. Sheet #12. 
W. buttress of Wonder pass. N. E. of Mt. Terrapin. 

19 16 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Wonder Peak. 9300'. ABC, p. 51, 56. E. but- 
tress of Wonder pass. S. of Mt. Cautley. 

1 9 13 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Unnamed. 9200'. ABC, p. 144. Sheet #12. One 
of the Blue Mts. between White Man and Marvel 
passes. N. of White Man pass, the Divide crosses 
Mt. Red Man and reaches the peak, one mile further 
on. 



26 ASSINIBOINE GROUP 

Unnamed. 9200'. ABC, p. 144. Sheet #12. Be- 
tween White Man and Marvel passes. S. E. of Mar- 
vel pass, the Divide rises to Mt. Aurora (8500'), falls 
to a subsidiary col, crosses a double peak (9400') and 
reaches the peak under discussion, about halfway 
between Marvel and White Man passes. 

Unnamed. 9400'. ABC, p. 144. Sheet #12. S. 
E. of Marvel pass lies Mt. Aurora (8500'), beyond 
which is a subsidiary col. To the S. of the col lies a 
double peak, the highest summit being 9400', about 
2 mi. S. of Marvel pass. 

(2) Peaks East of the Divide 

Mt. Allenby. 9500'. ABC, Sheet #12. 4 mi. E. 
of Assiniboine pass. N. E. angle between Allenby 
and Mercer creeks. 

Mt. Byng. 9760'. ABC, Sheet #12. 2 mi. E. of 

Marvel pass. N. W. of Mt. Currie. 

Mt. Currie. 9268'. ABC, p. 146. Sheet #12. 2 
mi. N. of White Man pass. Between White Man and 
Currie creeks. 

19 1 6 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Gibraltar Rock. 9418'. ABC, p. 56, 148. S. E. 

of Assiniboine pass. Culminates the N. E. arete of 
Mt. Cautley. 

19 13 ABC Boundary Commission. 



ASSINIBOINE GROUP 27 

Mt. Mercer. 9700'. ABC, Sheet #12. 4 mi. E, 
of Assiniboine pass. Head of Mercer creek. 

Mt. Morrison. 9350^ ABC, Sheet #11. W. of 
Spray riyer, between Mt. Turner and Currie creek. 

Mt. Turner. 9230'. ABC, Sheet #11. W. angle 
between Bryant creek and Spray river. N. of Mt. 
Morrison. 

(3) Peaks West of the Divide 

Mt. Alcantara. 9910'. ABC, Sheet #12. 3 mi. 
S. W. of Marvel pass. N. of Mt. Brussilof. 

Mt. Brussilof. 9990'. ABC, Sheet #12. 4 mi. 
W. of White Man pass. S. of Mt. Alcantara. 

Centurion Peak. 9900^ ABC, p. 151. Sheet #12. 
Between Mitchell river and Assiniboine creek. S. of 
The Marshal. S. W. of Mt. Sturdee. , 
1920 Ascended from camp of the Alpine Club of Canada. 

Goats Tower. 92oo^ C. A. J., iii, p. 175. N. of 

Wedgwood peak terminating the long N. spur of Mt. 

Assiniboine. 

19 10 T. G. Lon^staff, Miss Longstaff, R. Aemmer. 
Via the steep rocks of the N. W. face. 

Indian Peak. 9840'. ABC, Sheet #13. W. of 

Ferro pass (Simpson river to Mitchell river) . S. W. of 

Nestor peak. 

No data as to first ascent; probably by the Dominion Land 
Survey. 



28 ASSINIBOINE GROUP 

The Marshal. 10465'. ABC p. 151. Sheet #12. 
E. of Mitchell river, N. W. of Mt. Sturdee. 
1920 Ascended from camp of the Alpine Club of Canada. 

Naiset Peak. 9050'. ABC, p. 147. Sheet #12. 
S. E. of Lake Magog. On N. arete of Mt. Terrapin. 

1920 Ascended from camp of the Alpine Club of Canada. See 
Mt. Magog. 

Nestor Peak. 9250'. ABC, Sheet #12. N. E. 
of Ferro pass (Simpson river to Mitchell river). 

Nub Peak. 9016'. ABC, p. 56, 150. Sheet #12. 
2 mi. W. of Assiniboine pass. Head of Sunburst 
valley (Mitchell river.) 
19 1 6 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Mt. Sturdee. 10300'. ABC, Sheet #12. W. of 
Mt. Assiniboine, at the head of Assiniboine creek. 

1920 Ascended frorn camp of the Alpine Club of Canada from 
Sturdee col and also via W. arete which is generally of good rock 
with difficult short stretches. 

Mt. Watson. 9550'. ABC, Sheet #12. S. angle 
between Wedgwood creek and Mitchell river. 

Wedgwood Peak. (Katherine.) 9300'. ABC, 
Sheet #J2. ABC, p. 150. C. A. J., iii, p. 175. S. W. 
of Lake Magog. N. W. of Mt. Assiniboine. 

1910 T. G. Longstaff, Miss Longstaff, R. Aemmer. 
The Wedgwood-Assiniboine col is reached as in Route i for Mt. 
Assiniboine. From the col the arete is followed over several 
minor summits to the highest point. (The peak was traversed 
from W. to E.) 



SECTION VII 
Simpson Pass to Vermilion Pass 

(Mt. Ball Group) 

The air-line distance between these passes is about 
fourteen miles. Two minor passes, Ball pass (7300-) 
and Redearth pass (6800'), occur in the interval. 
Mt. Ball (10825') is the dominating peak. The 
whole east face of the group presents a precipitous 
rock escarpment hUng with glaciers which at Mt. Ball 
is nearly 4000' high. West of the watershed six great 
spurs reach out prominently. On the S. W. the group 
is bounded by the Vermilion river and on the N. E. by 
the Bow river. 

The group is reached from Vermilion pass on the 
Banff- Windermere motor road, seven miles south of 
Castle station on the Canadian Pacific railroad. 
Another route suitable for mountaineers leads from 
Moraine lake over Consolation pass to the Vermilion 
Pass road. 

(i) Peaks on the Divide 

Mt. Ball. 10825'. ABC, p. 39. C. A. J., i, #1, p. 
85; V, p. 122. 2 mi. N. of Ball pass and Isabelle peak. 
S. of Storm Mt. W. of Shadow lake. 

29 



30 MT. BALL GROUP 



1904 J. D. Patterson, C. Kaufmann. 

From Castle station, follow the road to Vermilion pass, crossing 
to camp 2 mi. beyond. (12 mi. from the railroad.) Ascend a 
draw towards S. E. past timberline, gaining a buttress N. W. 
of the peak and then up steep shale slopes to a snowfield which is 
crossed to the W. arete. Follow the arete to a small snow col 
which is crossed to the mass of the mountain. Keep to the rocks 
marking the W. edge of the snowfield and ascend to a saddle, 1 50' 
below the summit; then up snow- slopes to heavily corniced peak. 
Ascent from camp, 9^2 hrs.; descent, 5 hrs. including halts. 

Haiduk Peak. 9540'. ABC, p. 41. Culminates 
the Divide between Ball and Redearth passes. 

Isabelle Peak. 9600'. ABC, p. 40, 43. W. but- 
tress of Ball pass. S. of Mt. Ball. 

1913 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Mt. Mitchell ca. I0000^ C. A. J., v,,p. 134, 136. 
On the Divide N. W. of Mt. Ball and S. of Storm Mt. 

1901 E. Whymper and guides. 

Storm Mt. 10332'. ABC, p. 40. C. A. J., i, #1, 
p. 88. Rep. Dept. of Interior, 1890, ii, p. 45. iVnn. 
Rept. Top. Surveys Branch for 1906-7, pp. 78, 81. 
W., p. 238. S. E. buttress of Vermilion pass. N. 
of Mt. Ball. 

1889 W. S. Drewry, A. St. Cyr. ' ' 

Via creek on S. emptying into Vermilion river. Camp was made 
at timberline; 7 hrs. to summit next day. Cairn built on summit 
12' high and 8' in diameter. A later ascent has been made in 5^2 
hrs. from Vermilion pass; descent 2^ hrs. 



MT. BALL GROUP 31 



(2) Peaks East of the Divide 

(These peaks are closely related to those of Section VIII 
following: ''Peaks in the Environs of Banff," q.v.). 

Mt. Bourgeau. 9575'. ABC, p. 47. Sheet #31. 
C. A. J., viii, p. 147. 4 mi. N. E. of Simpson pass. 
8 mi. S. W. of Banff. 

1890 J. J. McArthur. (No printed record available; information 
from Mr. T. E, Wilson of Banff.) Easily ascended from camp 
in Healy creek valley. 

Mt. Brett. 9750'. Sheet #14. Between Healy 
and Redearth creeks. N. W. of Mt. Bourgeau. S. 
of Pilot Mt. 

1916 J. Outram, A. H. Bent, with Messrs. Ritchie, McClelland, 
and Hogeboom. From the A. C. C. camp on Healy creek via the 
westerly slopes (4 hrs.) and narrow western arete {i}A hrs.) (rope 
unnecessary). Return via long snow slopes where glissading 
allows descent of 1000' in ji hr. 

Copper Mt. 9130'. ABC, Sheet #14. W. angle 
between Redearth creek and Bow river. N. W. of 
Pilot Mt. 

Pilot Mt. 968o^ C. A. J., vii. p. 117. Sheet #14. 
S. angle between Redearth creek and Bow river. N. 
of Mt. Brett. 

Mt. Rundle. 9828'. A. J., xviii, p. 99. C. A. J., x, 
p. 80. 0.,p. 32. Blackwood's Magazine, June 1913, 
pp. 776-789. S. E. angle between Spray and Bow 



32 MT. BALL GROUP 



rivers. No data as to first ascent. Via horse trail 
from Banff. (Mt. Assiniboine is visible). Ascent 
from Banff, 6 hrs. 

Three Sisters. 9733'. (N. peak.) O., p. 31. S. 
of Canmore station, Canadian Pacific Railroad. 

1889 J. J. McArthur. (No printed record available; information 
from Mr. T. E. Wilson of Banff.) 

Wind Mt. loioo'. O., p. 31. Rept. Dept. Int., 
1890, ii, p. 45. W., p. 238. S. E. of Canmore station, 
W. of Kananaskis river. 

1889 A. St. Cyr, W. S. Drewry. 

Ascent made from White Man pass at S. W. foot of peak. 500' 

of short cliffs below the summit. 

(3) Peaks West of the Divide 

Monarch Mt. 9488'. Sheet #I3A. ABC, p. 43, 
45, 56. C. A. J., viii, p. 147. 2 mi. S. W. of Simpson 
pass, in the angle between Verdant creek and the 
N. branch of Simpson river. 

1 9 13 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Stanley Peak. 10311'. ABC, p. 38. Sheet #14. 
4 mi. S. of Vermilion pass, just W. of the portion of 
the Divide between Mt. Ball and Storm Mt. 

19 13 ABC Boundary Commission. 



SECTION VIII 

Peaks in the Environs of Banff 

Hereunder are listed certain scattered mountains 
which are naturally approached from Banff as a center. 
They lie mostly to the E. and N. of the Bow river. 
A number of peaks W. of the town which also could 
properly be included, here will be found in pages 
immediately preceding under the Mt. Ball group, "(2) 
Peaks East of the Divide." 

Mt. Aylmer. 10364'. C. A. J.,x, p. 83. 0.,p. 32. 
R. D. I., 1 891, ii, p. 50. 5 mi. N. of Lake Minnewanka, 
at sources of Ghost river. 

1S39 J. J. McArthur. From Lake Minnewanka. 

Bonnet Peak. 10290'. R. D. I., 1890, ii, p. 45. 
N. of Castle station, C. P. R., 7 mi. S. E. of Mt. Doug- 
las. At sources of Johnson creek and Cascade river. 

1890 A. St. Cyr. 

Cascade Mt. 9825'. O., p. 35. R. D. I., 1890, part 
ii, p. 45 (ascent by W. S. Drewry, 1889). C. A. J., 
vol. i, #1, p. 58. 4 mi. N. of Banff station. N. W. of 

3 33 



34 PEAKS IN THE ENVIRONS OF BANFF 

junction of Cascade and Bow rivers. E. of Forty Mile 
creek. 

1887 L. Stewart. (There is no printed record, but Mr. T. E. 

Wilson gives this information.) 

From Ban?, ascend valley of Forty Mile creek whence the long 

main S. W. arete may be gained and the summit reached. Climb 

is wearisome but without difficulty. (Mt. Assiniboine is visible.) 

Mr. A. H. MacCarthy reports S. E. arete a good climb with safe 

rock. 

Castle Mt. 9976'. Co., p. 42. 0., 78. N. W. 

angle between Johnson creek and Bow river. 

1884 A. P. Coleman. 

From Castle station via the small valley leading E. and N. of the 
mountain. From its head, the only difficulty is a cliff belt (loose 
rock). The S. E. tower has never been climbed. 

Mt. Costigan. 9630'. Rocky Mountains map 
(Lat. 51° to 53°io'). Between the E. end of Lake 
Minnewanka and Ghost river. S. E. of Mt. Aylmer. 

Devils Head Mt. 9205'. W., p. 9. R. D. I., 1892, 
ii, p. 32. 7 mi. N. E. of Lake Minnewanka. N. of 
Ghost river. 

1 89 1 W. S. Drewry. 

Partial ascent; attempt was unsuccessful because of precipices 

below summit. 

Mt. Edith. 8370'. C. A. J., ii, #r, p. 136. C, p. 

218. O., p. 35. In N. W. angle between Forty Mile 

creek and Bow river. 

1900 J. N. Collie, F. Stephens. 

From Banff follow the Bow valley past the Vermilion lakes 



PEAKS IN THE ENVIRONS OF BANFF 35 

to the side valley W, of Mt. Norquay. Ascend nearly to 
the Edith-Norquay pass leading over to Forty Mile creek. 
Turn left and climb a gully of steep and rotten rock to the col 
between Mt. Edith and the next peak to N. (Mt. Louis). Cross 
the col to the W. side, making a series of traverses and ascending 
steep slabs g,nd gullies of rotten rock on the W. face to the summit. 

Hole-in-the-Wall Mt. 9183'. Map of the Rocky 
Mts. between Lat. 51° and 53°io'. N. of the Canad- 
ian Pacific railroad. Adjoins Mt. Edith on W. 

Mt. Girouard. 9^1 s' ■ Map reference as above. 
S. E. of Mt. Inglismaldie. Between the latter peak 
and Mt. Peechee. 

Mt. Inglismaldie. 97I5^ Map reference as above. 
Forms the S. bank of Lake Minnewanka. 

Mt. Louis. 8800'. A. J., xxxii, p. 68. C. A. J., 

viii, p. 79; ix, p. 32. W. of Forty Mile creek. The 
first tower N. of Mt. Edith. 

1916 A. H. McCarthy, K. Kain. 

Mr. V. A. Fynn gives the following data (C. A. J. ix p. 32) : 
From Banff via the Edith-Norquay pass toward Forty Mile creek 
reach (2 mi. further on) the N. E. base of Mt. Louis at an 
altitude of 7000'. Ascend a chimney in the lower portion cf the 
E. face, avoiding steep slabs in its upper portion by a traverse S. 
Thence over ledges to a 10' wall above wet steep slabs, sur- 
mounted by the aid of a rope doubled around a rock jammed 
between these slabs and the main wall. Work upward and 
toward S. over easy ground to a smooth steep wall below the 
ridge separating the E. from the S. face. A chimney and a crack 



36 PEAKS IN THE ENVIRONS OF BANFF 

are descended to an easy ledge and a grassy platform on the S. 
face. To W. and 90' above, a narrow couloir is reached over 
steep rocks and ascended to within a short distance of the ridge 
dividing the E. from the S. face, whence the ridge itself is gained 
by way of the next parallel gully to W.; this requires a 12' "rope- 
off" to reach the bottom of the gully, which is then ascended to a 
large platform, 450' below the summit; A crack, about 12' deep 
and rising at an angle of 75° reaches to the final peak and is 
ascended, (i hr.) 

Ascent from point on E. face where climbing begins, 4 hrs. 
Mt. Louis is considered one of the most difficult rock climbs in the 
Canadian Rockies. 

Mt. Norquay. 8284'. C. A. J., viii, p. 79, 135. 
Adjoins Mt. Edith on E. From N. W. corner of 
second Vermilion lake, ascend rocks to E. ridge. 

A large gendarme is traversed to S. W. Easy going on the arete 
to the final tower which is ascended by a short, wide chimney. 
Ascent from the road to the summit in 4 hours. 

Panther Mt. 9595'. Map of the ROcky Mount- 
ains between Lat. 51° and 53°, 10'. Between the 
sources of the N. and S. branches of Panther river. 

1 89 1 J. J. McArthur. No printed record; information from 
T. E. Wilson. 

Mt. Peechee. 9615'. Map reference as above. 
W. p. 9. S. of Lake Minnewanka. Adjoins Mt. 
Girouard on S. E. 

Saddle Peak. 9277'. Map reference as above. 
5 mi. E. of Lake Minnewanka, between N. and S. 
forks of the Ghost river. 



PEAKS IN THE ENVIRONS OF BANFF 37 

Sulphur Mt. 8030'. C. A. J., x, p. 80. S. W. of 

Banff village; meteorological station on the summit. 
Horse trail leads from Banff, via the sulphur pool and 
springs. A fine view of the Bow valley is obtained 
and of the peaks of the Continental Divide to the W. 
Ascent 43^ hrs. 

Mt. White. 913 1 ^ Map reference as above. N. 
E. of pass between Snow creek (Panther river) and 
Red Deer river. 9 mi. N. E. of Mt. McConnell. 

Unnamed. 10030'. R. D. I., 1891, ii, p. 44. Map 

reference as above. E. of Johnson creek and W. of 
pass connecting head of Forty Mile creek with Cas- 
cade river. 

1890 W. S. Drewry. 

Note: — No attempt is made to classify the unnamed peaks in this 
area. Reference to Map of the Rocky Mountains between Lat. 5/° 
and^j°, 10' shows about fifty unnamed points, g-ioooo' in altitude. 
O.ily thz om mzniioned above is known to exceed loooo' . 



SECTION IX 
Vermilion Pass to Kicking Horse Pass 

(Lake Louise Group) 

The Lake Louise Group is bounded on the north 
and west by the main Hne of the Canadian Pacific 
railroad, along the Bow and Kicking Horse rivers; 
on the south by the Ottertail river and on the east by 
the Vermilion river. 

The peaks of the Continental Divide in this area 
include the majority of those bounding the Ten Peak, 
Paradise and Lake Louise valleys. The air-line 
distance is about nineteen miles, the Divide being 
crossed by the mountaineering passes of Boom lake 
Wenkchemna and Abbot. On the Divide, the 
average altitude is over loooo', Mt. Hungabee (i 1447') 
being the highest summit, although surpassed by 
Mt. Temple (11626'), lying to the east in Alberta. 
On the Divide, Mts. Deltaform, LefrOy, and Victoria 
also exceed iiooo', while in British Columhia, Mt. 
Huber (11041O and Mt. Biddle (10878') are the high- 
est peaks. The summits of this group are attainable 
in a single day from Chateau Lake Louise or from 

38 



LAKE LOUISE GROUP 39 

Field, or by a night out at Lake O'Hara or Moraine 
lake camp. 

(i) Peaks on the Divide 

Boom Mt. 9007'. ABC p. 34. N. W. buttress of 
Vermilion pass. S. of Boom lake. E. of Chimney 
peak and Boom lake pass. 

Chimney Peak. 9840'. Appal, vii p. 129. C. A. J., 
iii, p. 75. The second summit S. of Middle pass and 
Mt. Quadra. 

1910 T. G. Longstaff, E. O. Wheeler. 

From Consolation pass, round the S. E. shoulder of Mt. Bident to 
moraine of Boom glacier. Cross glacier to col between Chimney 
peak and Unnamed peak to N. Follow N. snow ridge to chimney 
in middle of N. cliff; this (60') is ascended for about 15' and thence 
via rocks on the left to its top. The N. arete is regained to the 
right via a short gully and followed to the summit. 
Ascent from moraine of Boom glacier, 3 hrs. 

Mt. Collier. {Nichols.) 10400'. A. J., xxii p. 73. 
C. A. J. ix p. 140, X p. 7. Between the N. peak of 
Mt. Victoria and Popes Peak. 

(Year unknown) Collier brothers. 

Route I. Via the Lake Louise trail and upper Victoria glacier to 

saddle between Victoria N. Peak and Mt. Collier. The snow 

arete is followed to the summit. 

Route 2. The S. E. face may be descended to the upper Victoria 

glacier. Ascent may be combined with that of Victoria N. Peak 

or with Popes peak. Ascent from the Victoria- Collier saddle, i 

hr. Total time from Lake Louise, 12 hrs. ; combined with Victoria 

N. peak, 15 hrs. 



40 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

Mt. Deltaform. {Peak Eight, Saknowa). 11225'. 
Appal. X p. 295. C. A. J. ii#2 p. 55;ivp. 143.. ABC 
p. 33. O. p. 135. W. p. 251. A. J. xxii p. 75. 
Between Mt. Neptuak and Mt. Tuzo. 

1903 H. C. Parker, A. Eggers, C. Kaufmann, II. Kanfmann. 
Route I. From camp in Prospectors' valley (7500'), cross bould- 
ers and scree, skirting Neptuak Mt. to the middle of the S. W. 
base of Mt. Deltaform. Ascend a long broad snow couloir, partly 
by rocks on its sides, to steep but not difficult ledges. Then up a 
40' chimney (few holds and many loose stones) to ledges and a 
shale bed leading to the S. arete opposite Mt. Tuzo. The last 
1000' of ascent (2 hrs.) consists in following the arete toward the 
main peak and then traversing on the S. face. A buttress and 
several small gendarmes are passed, an ice couloir is traversed 
and the W. arete gained via a short chimney. Rocks of the 
final peak are surmounted by means of a narrow crack leading 
to easy snow-slopes and a pinnacle summit. The peak has the 
most rotten rock in the Lake Louise district; stone falls are fre- 
quent and dangerous. Ascent 8 hrs.; descent 6.5 less. Total 
time from camp near Eiffel lake, 26 hrs. 

Route 2. The N. W. arete may be gained by traversing Neptuak 
Mt. from the Wenkchemna pass and, while the intervening arete 
is difficult and the climb longer than by Route i, it is considered 
the safer way. 

Mt. Fay. (Peak One). I06I2^ A. J, xxii p. 333; 
xxiv p. 234. Appal xi p. 332. C. A. J. iii p. 192. O. 
p. 132. W. of Consolation valley, between Mt. Qua- 
dra and Mt. Little. 

1904 G. Benham, C. Kaufmann. 

Route I. Via the couloir between Peak 3 and Peak 4. Ascend 
the left side of the couloir partly on rock and partly on snow. 



PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 41 

Cross the pass at the summit and traverse the snowfield around 
the base of Mt, Little to the foot of the peak whence snow slopes 
lead to the top. 

Route 2. From Moraine lake via Fay glacier W. of Mt. Babel. 
Ascend the glacier close to the rocks of Mt. Babel, which are 
utilized where possible, then by the margin of the ice fall (steep, 
step-cutting). On the rock ledges much loose stone and scree. 
Having passed the ice fall, the upper neve is traversed to the base 
of the peak {ca. 4 hrs.). Time to the summit 7>^ hrs.; descent to 
Moraine lake 4>^ hrs. This route is somewhat dangerous on 
account of possible ice falls from the upper glacier. Care must be 
taken not to ascend the rocks of Mt. Babel too far as cliffs cut off 
access to the upper snowfield. 

Route J. From Consolation valley, via Consolation and Middle 
passes and the S. glacier. 

Peak Five. 10018'. ABC Sheet #15. Alp. Amer. 
p. 18. Between Peaks 4 and 5. 

Peak Four. 10028'. Appal, x p. 92. Between 

Peaks Three and Five. 

1 90 1 C. S. Thompson, G. T. Little, G. M. Weed, C. Kaufmann. 

By way of the E. snow slopes, reached via: 

Route I. Couloir from Moraine lake between Peaks 3 and 4. 

Route 2. The S. snow-slopes, by way of Consolation and Middle 

passes. 

Glacier Peak. 10831'. A. J. xxv p. 82. C. A. J. 

ii #2 p. 84; X p. 9. S. of Mt. Lefroy and N. of Ringrose 
peak. 

1909 V. A. Fynn, A. R. Hart, C. A. Richardson, L. C. Wilson. 
Route I. From Lake O'Hara, follow trail to Lake Oesa (6990', 
50 min.) . Thence over scree and a small glacier, the bergschrund 
of which is easily crossed to a deeply cut but not steep couloir 



42 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

leading to a gap in the main ridge between Glacier peak and 
Ringrose peak. Keeping close to rocks on N. side of the couloir, 
take to the face just below the gap but avoid traversing N. Near 
the main ridge is seen the mouth of a steep narrow ice couloir; 
gain the crest of the rib on the N. side of this couloir (over ex- 
tremely rotten rock) and bearing slightly N. attain the main 
arete, turning the last rocks on the N. over an ice slope covered 
with hard snow. Traverse to the faintly marked S. W. arete 
of the final peak and reach corniced summit. 
Ascent from Lake Oesa 4 hrs. 30 min.; descent, 2 hrs. 35 min. 
Total time from Lake O'Hara 10 hrs. 30 min. 

19 1 8 V. A. Fynn, R. Aemmer. 

Route 2. From Paradise valley via the Horseshoe glacier. 
Cross bergschrund of the Horseshoe glacier and ascend steep 
slopes to a rock rib just S. of the snow couloir descending from 
the col between the N. peak of Ringrose and Glacier peak. Near 
upper portion of rib, traverse N., crossing the couloir and con- 
tinuing ascent close to its N. margin. The main arete is reached 
slightly N. of the col and is followed to the summit. The peak 
may be traversed by descending to Lake Oesa as in Route i. 
Ascent 7 hrs. 50 min. 

Mt. Hungabee. 11447'. ABC p. 33. AppaL 
X, p. 91, 291 ; xii.. p. 231. C. A. J., i, #1 p. 80; ii #2 p. 78. 
0.,p. 138. A. J., xxii, p. 75; XXV, p. 88-9, 561. E. 
buttress of Opabin pass. S. of Ringrose peak. 

1 903 H, C. Parker, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaujmann. 

The following is abstracted from an account in the C. A. J. by 

Mr. V. A. Fynn: 

The S. W. face overlooking Prospectors valley extends from the 

W. ar^te at an angle just under 50° and is broken by three steep 

horizontal pitches. The first (8900') is the highest and easiest, 

with good rock. The second (9500') is vertical but is broken 

by a chimney usually filled with ice or snow. The third pitch 



PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 43 

(10900') is steep but safe. Between the first and second pitches, 
the S. W. face is cut by five couloirs: the first loses itself in the 
W. arete below the second pitch; the second couloir breaks 
through the second pitch as the chimney referred to and continues 
through the third pitch to the main N. arete near the summit. 
The remaining couloirs do not break through the second pitch but 
are continued above it, losing themselves in the third pitch. 
All five couloirs break through the first pitch. 

Route I. From Opabin pass, ascend the W. arete, bearing S. 
over easy ledges until opposite the middle of the first couloir 
which is crossed to a ridge on the far side leading to the foot of the 
ice chimney in the second pitch. This main couloir may be 
followed to the N. shoulder at the base of the peak, the top being 
gained by traversing steep slopes below the summit arete. 

Route 2. This is merely a variation of i?OM/« 7 and is safer. From 
the ice chimney, above the second pitch, a short traverse is made 
to the rocks on S. side around a corner, whence the third pitch 
is surmounted by means of a rock couloir leading to the last steep 
slopes of the S. W. face (brittle rock with few holds) and the N. 
arete about 30' N. of and just below the summit. 
Ascent from Lake O'Hara, 8 hrs.; descent, 7 hrs. 45 min. From 
Lake O'Hara to Opabin pass and the foot of the W. arete 
3Xhrs. 

A note on the ascent of this peak from the same side is supplied by 
Mr. Allen Carpe as follows: From Opabin pass ascend straight 
up the ridge over the intermediate shoulder for perhaps two-thirds 
of the height of the mountain. Here a quartzite band contain- 
ing conspicuous crystals will be encountered. Traverse to the 
left (north) and ascend obliquely towards the ridge leading up to 
the main shoulder of the mountain, N. of the summit. Proceed 
thence along the main ar^te (or slightly to the right of it) to the 
summit which is usually corniced. 

Note: The amount of snow and ice on the mountain varies 
greatly with the season; late in the summer very little ice and 



44 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

snow will be encountered on the west side where the routes above 
described lie. 

Mt. Lefroy. 11220'. A. J. xix p. 105; xxxii p. 74, 
Appal, viii p. 122, 133. ABC p. 33. C. A. J. i #1 p. 
80. C. p. 16. O. p. 121. W. p. 40. E. buttress of 
Abbot pass. W. of The Mitre. N. of Glacier peak. 

1897 J. N. Cohie, H. B. Dixon, C. E. Fay, A. Michael, C. L. 
Noyes, H. C. Parker, C. S. Thompson, J. R. Vanderlip, P. Sarbach. 
Via the Lake Louise trail and the lower Victoria glacier which is 
crossed to the snow-slopes between Mts. Lefroy and Victoria, 
leading to Abbot pass, 9588'. Thence via the W. face, a direct 
ascent is made toward the summit, over snow, ice, and out- 
cropping rock. The amount of difficulty is directly dependent 
upon the snow conditions. 

From Chateau Lake Louise to Abbot pass, 4-5 hrs. Pass to sum- 
mit, 3-4 hrs. The ascent has been combined with that of the 
main peak of Mt. Victoria in 22 hrs., total time from Chateau 
Lake Louise. (Cf. A. J. xxxii p. 74). 

1919 A. H. MacCarthy and Mrs. A. H. MacCarthy. 
The mountain may also be ascended via the couloir or chirr ney 
that leads from the Victoria glacier through the basal cliffs to the 
glacier lying on the N. W. slope. Thence the N. arete is gained 
and followed in a generally S. direction to the summit. By this 
route Abbot pass is avoided entirely. Rock unstable and very 
treacherous. A waterfall is encountered on ascent and descent. 

Mt. Little. (Peak Two). 10293'. A. J. xxii p. 
334. S. E. of No. 3 and between it and Mt. Fay. 

1904 G. Benham, C. Kaufmann. 

A. rock climb. Reached from Moraine lake via Consolation and 

Middle passes and the S. snowfield. 



PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 45 

Neptuak Mt. {Peak Nine). 10607'. A. J. xxi 
p. 376. C. p. 315. O. p. 133. S. E. buttress of 
Wenkchemna pass. N. W. of Mt. Deltaform. 

1902 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, 
H. Kaufmann. 

From Wenkchemna pass follow the crest of the jagged rocky N. 
W. arete with occasional traverses on the S. side to the summit 
rocks which are usually snow-covered. "Good hard scrambling 
all the way." The final rocks are troublesome and are best 
negotiated from the S. The peak is traversed in the ascent of 
Mt. Deltaform by the N. W. arete and is considered the safe way 
up the latter. There is a very fine view of Deltaform from the 
summit. 

Popes Peak. {Despine). 10376'. ABC, p. 30- 
C. A. J. iv p. 148, vi p. 251, X p. 7. W. p. 266. S. 
buttress of Kicking Horse pass, between Cataract 
brook and the Victoria glacier; 

No data as to first ascent. 

Route I. Via Ross lake and the N. glacier. 

Route 2. Via the S. E. face from the upper Victoria glacier, 

reached by way of the Lake Louise trail and the S. E. slopes of 

Mt. Whyte. 

Route 3. Via the S. W. ar^te from the summit of Mt. Collier. 

Ascent from Lake Louise with traverse of Mt. Collier, 12 hrs. 

Mt. Quadra. 10410'. Appal., xii, p. 236. C. A. J, 

iii p. 52. S. E. of Mt. Fay. N. of Middle pass. 

1910 J. W. A. Hickson, A. M. Gordon, F. C. Bell, E. Feuz, Jr., 
G. Feuz. 

Route I. Via Consolation valley and pass to the S. side of Mt. 
Bident. Cross snowfield to Middle pass (9500'), just S. of Mt. 



46 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

Quadra's main peak. Thence over snow and boulders, followed 
by short bits of rock climbing in the S. arete to the summit. The 
last portion of the arete demands care because of rotten rock. 
The three remaining lower peaks may be traversed by following 
the arete E. toward Mt. Bident. The last two sum.mits are 
difficult, the final one being more accessible from the Bident- 
Quadra col. 

Route 2. Descent from the highest peak may be made to Middle 
pass, whence the snowfield leading to Mt. Fay is reached; circling 
this mountain and crossing to the Fay glacier and a shoulder of 
Mt. Babel, shale slopes can be followed to Consolation valley. 
This route is much longer than Route i. 

Consolation pass to highest summit, 2 hrs. 10 min. Traverse of 
remaining summits, 3 hrs. 30 min. 

Ringrose Peak. 10755'. A. J. xviii p. 116, xxv 
p. 81. Between Glacier peak and Mt. Hungabee. 

1909 V. A. Fynn, E. F, Pilkington. 

There is a N. and S. summit, of which the latter is the higher. 
S. of the higher summit is a prominent gendarrhe on the main 
arete, which drops abruptly to the Ringrose-Hungabee col. The 
S. W. face presents two couloirs, the first descending from the 
main arete, S. of the N. peak; the second descending from the 
arete just N. of the gendarme. Both couloirs converge in a snow- 
slope at the foot of the S. W. face. 

The S. W. face is reached from the Opabin glacier by a broad 
snow covered ledge rising N. in the direction of the Ringrose- 
Yukness col. At a point just below the higher summit ascend 
the face between the two couloirs (not difficult; falling stones) 
to a ledge about halfway up the face, traversing to cross the main 
S. couloir to the rib on its S. side. This rib separates the S. 
couloir from a steep curving gully, partly filled with snow, rising 
at first toward the Ringrose-Hungabee col and then swinging 
back toward the Ringrose S. peak to be joined by an ice chimney 



PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 47 

descending on the S. side of the gendarme of the main ar^te. 
The rib is followed and the gully crossed above its juntion with 
the ice chimney, keeping close to the rocks on the N. side of the 
latter until further progress toward the main arete becomes 
impossible without crossing the chimney. Thence via a difficult 
irregular crack in the brittle rock, gain the crest of the rib and 
again reach the main S. couloir which here divides into two 
branches, one running toward the main peak and the other away 
from it toward the S. Cross the near branch and ascend to the 
main arete by the buttress between the two branches, striking 
it between the gendarme and the S. peak. An easy wall is fol- 
lowed by a narrow, nearly level arete to the summit, the last 
difficulty being an 8' "Gabel" or depression, about 25' deep, 
which must be negotiated with care because of loose rock. As- 
cent from Lake O'Hara 7 hrs. ; descent 5 hrs. 

Peak Six. 10520'. A. J. xxii p. 334. S. E. of 
Mt. Tuzo and between it and Peak No. 5. 

1904 G. Benham, C. Kaufmann. 

Route I. From the col between Peaks No. 3 and 4, skirt Peaks 

No. 4 and 5 on S. Traverse to the W. arete and ascend via steep 

rotten rock. 

Route 2. The W. arete may be reached via Consolation and 

Middle passes and the S. snowfield. 

Peak Three. 10088'. Appal, x p. 92. Directly S. 
of Moraine lake, between Mt. Little and Peak No. 4. 

1901 G. M. Weed, G. T. Little, C. S. Thompson, H. Kaujmann. 

Via the W. snow-slope reached : 

Route I. By way of the col between Peaks 3 and 4, from Moraine 

lake. 

Route 2. By way of Consolation and Middle passes and the S. 

snowfield. 



48 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 



Mt. Tuzo. 10648'. ABC Sheet #15. E. of Mt. 
Deltaform. N. W. of Peak No. 6. Probably as- 
cended by Miss Tuzo but date and particulars are 
lacking. 

Mt. Victoria. (Green). 11355'. (South Peak). 
A. J. xviii, p. 100. Appal, ix p. i, 21, 97. ABC, p. 
33. C. p. 23. W. (LL), p. 12. Continental Divide, 
N. W. of Abbot pass and Mt. Lefroy. 

1897 J. N. Collie, C. E. Fay, A. Michael, P. Sarbach. 
Route I. Via Abbot pass. Traverse the Lake Louise trail and 
the lower Victoria glacier; ascend steep neve between Mts. Lefroy 
and Victoria to summit of Abbot pass. (9588'; 4-5 hrs.) Thence 
N. W. over steep and broken rock until the main arete is reached. 
This is followed to the summit, traversing the top of the snow- 
slopes on the Lake Louise side where necessary. Ascent from 
Lake Louise, 8 hrs.; descent, 6 hrs. Has been combined with 
ascent of Mt. Lefroy; total time, exclusive of halts, 22 hrs. 
A descent may be made directly to Lake O'Hara, without return- 
ing to Abbot pass. Leave the ridge of Victoria about 500 yards 
south of the summit and descend easy rocks and snow towards 
the southwest. Skirt the west base of Mt.Huber to the depres- 
sion between Huber and the Wiwaxy peaks. Descend the gully 
and through woods to the east end of Lake O'Hara and thence 
around south shore to the cabin. Avoid the north shore of the 
lake. This is just the reverse of Route 2. 
Route 2. From the S. C. A. J. ii No. 2 p. 100. 
1909 J. P. Forde, A. M. Gordon, M. Goddard, Mrs. A. H. Mc- 
Carthy. 

From E. end of Lake O'Hara, ascend to saddle between Mt. 
Huber and the Wiwaxy peaks. Follow the usual route up Mt. 
Huber (W. face), and swing to the N. into the valley between Mts. 
Huber and Victoria. Round the head of this valley to the 



PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 49 

bergschrund on the S. W. side of Mt. Victoria; traverse to foot of 
rock wall and ascend rocks beside a snow chimney about 400' 
high to the Victoria S. E. arete which is followed to the summit. 
Ascent from Lake O'Hara, 6 hrs.; descent, 4.5 hrs. 

Route 3. Traverse from the North peak, see below. 

Mt. Victoria. 11 150'. (North Peak). A. J.xxxii 
p. 74, 307. C. A. J. ix p. 140. O. p. 85. Continen- 
tal Divide, between the South Peak and Mt. Collier. 

1900 J. Outram, W. Outram, J. H. Scattergood, Clarke, Zurfluh. 
Route I. Via the Lake Louise trail, rounding the S. E. flank of 
Mt. Whyte an,d ascending to the upper Victoria glacier. Thence 
up steep snow-slopes, 7-800' to the col between the North Peak 
and Mt. Collier {6}4 hrs.). Follow the arete to the summit, 
(corniced on the Lake Louise side). Ascent from the Victoria- 
Collier col, 1.5-2 hrs. Total time from Lake Louise, 12-13 hrs. 
Compare Mt. Collier for combined ascent. 

Route 2. Traverse of North and South peaks. C. A. J. ii No. 2 
p. 92; X p. 12. A. J. xxxii p. 307. 
1909 G. W. Culver, E. Feuz, Jr., R. Aemmer. 
To the North Peak as in Route i. The crest of the arete is 
followed with few exceptions, traverses being made on the Lake 
Louise side. A short distance from the North Peak, there is a 
15' drop; thence a narrow, horizontal ridge, interrupted by deep 
cracks over which it is possible to step, leads to a gendarme which 
must be climbed. On its far side, comes a sheer drop with good 
holds into a deep gap. The wall ahead is easily passed and once 
on the ar^te, there is a stretch of good rock and some snow. 
Another deep gap is crossed to the highest point between the 
North and South peaks, (i hr., 45 min.) Then (i hr.) up and 
down many, but not deep gaps, to a platform above a 60' drop to 
the very narrow ridge which necessitates roping off (fixed sling). 
The next gendarme requires a traverse with step cutting, followed 
by a long easy bit on the ridge to the next obstruction, which is 



50 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

traversed to a very deep gap. A steep wall, an easy gendarme, 
another gap, brings one to the last obstacle, an overhanging tower 
which is traversed by rotten rock on the N. Thence via the 
ar§te, to the S. Peak. 

Descent as in Route i for South Peak. Total time from Lake 
Louise, 24 hrs. The reverse of this route, the traverse from the 
South to the North Peak has never been made. 

Wenkchemna Peak. (Peak Ten). 10401'. ABC, 

Sheet #15, Appal, vii p. 129. C. A. J. 11 #2 p. 78. 
O. p. 132. A shoulder of Hungabee between the main 
peak and Wenkchemna pass. 

Unnamed, ca. loooo'. A. J. xxii p. 334. C. A. J. 

iii p. 55, 75. Adjoins Mt. Quadra and Middle pass 
(Kaufmann) on S. N. of Chimney peak. 

1904 G. Benham, C. Kaufmann. 

Climbed in mistake for Mt. Fay. 

Route I. Via the col between Peaks 3 and 4, Middle pass and the 

N. ar§te. 

Route 2. Via Consolation valley and Middle pass. 

(2) Peaks East of the Divide 

Mt. Aberdeen. (Hazel). 10340'. A. J. xviii p. 
109; xxxii p. 73; xxxiii p. 193. C. A. J. i #2 p. 330; 
ix p. 140. O. p. 88. W. p. 242. W. (LL) p. 28. E. 
buttress of Lefroy glacier. Between Haddo peak and 
the E. Mitre pass. 

1894 S. E. S. Allen, L. F. Frissell, W. D. Wilcox. 
Route I. From Paradise valley ascend shale slopes and rock 
slides to the S. shoulder, reached by way of a short chimney. 
Follow snow arete to summit. Ascent 5-6 hrs. 



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PEAKS EAST OF THE DIVIDE 51 

Route 2. (See' Haddo pk,). From summit of Haddo peak des- 
cend to the Aberdeen glacier and reach the summit of Mt. Aber- 
deen over a steep snow and ice arete. Descend, as in Route i, to 
Paradise valley or over the W. slopes to the Lefroy glacier and 
Lake Louise. Total time, 13 hrs. 

Route 3. Via icefall of Aberdeen glacier. 
19 19 V. A, Fynn, R. Aemmer. 

From Lake Louise, follow trail to Saddleback cabin. Thence 
circle head of Surprise valley to foot of Aberdeen glacier. On E. 
side of the fall is a narrow ice gully, next to a high and almost 
perpendicular cliff. By way of the gully (step cutting), the 
middle portion of the icefall is reached and permits good pro- 
gress. A large chasm, running horizontally across the fall, is 
crossed near its E. end and easy ground gained above the eastern 
cliff. The Haddo-Aberdeen saddle is gained (6 hrs. 40 min. from 
Lake Louise) and the ar^te followed to the summit of Mt. Aber- 
deen (i hr.). 

Descent as in Route 2, Haddo summit, 30 min. Saddleback 
cabin, via Haddo glacier, 2.5 hrs. Total time from Lake Louise, 
13 hrs. 

Mt. Babel. IOI75^ C. A. J. iii- p. 73. S. W. 
angle formed by the valley of the Ten Peaks and Con- 
solation valley. 

1910 E. O. Wheeler, A. R. Hart, L. C. Wilson, H. H. Worsfold. 

Route I. From Moraine lake ascend moraine of Fay glacier, 

keeping close to the rocks of the N. margin, which are themselves 

ascended when the base of the icefall is reached. Thence over 

glacier to the col between Mt. Fay and Mt. Babel and follow the 

ar^te to summit, about 1000' higher. 

Route 2. From the Babel-Fay col descent may be made to 

Consolation pass, via the Fay glacier, col between Peaks 2 and 3 

and Middle pass. 

Ascent from Moraine lake, 7 hrs. 30 min. 



52 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

Babel Tower. 7580'. O. 131. App. x p. 89. W. 
(LL) p. 34. N. of Mt. Babel, 

1901 G. T. Little, G. M. Weed, C. S. Thompson. 
Easy ascent from Consolation valley by way of the S. E. shale 
slopes. A direct ascent from Moraine lake should be avoided, 
because of rock falls. 

Mt. Bident. 10109'. A. J. xxii p. 205. Appal, 
xip. 128. C. A. J. iii p. 191. W. of Consolation pass. 
E. of Mt. Quadra. 

1903 C. S. Thompson, H. Kaufmann. 

Via Consolation valley and pass, cross to S. E. angle of Mt. Bident. 

From this point the climb is on rock, not difficult except for 

stratum of black rock about 400' high passed either: 

Route I. In central portion of face below a triangular depression 

where a chimney breaks through the black stratum, or 

Route 2. Via the rising ridge of the pass to its junction with the 

S. E. angle of the mountain, thus flanking the cliff but compelling 

a traverse over a ledge not clearly continuous with the foot of the 

depression mentioned in Route i. Route i is the best. In the 

area of black rock there are two good handholds and a 12' face. 

Ascent from Consolation pass, 3 hrs. 30 min. 

Devil's Thumb. 8066'. W. (LL) p. 17. A. J. 

xviii p. 99. A minor elevation on the E. arete of Mt. 
Whyte, west of the Big Beehive. 
1891 S. E. S. Allen. 

From Lake Louise follow the trail to Lake Agnes ( i hr.) . Thenc e 
via the trail to the ridge of the Beehive, whence the objective peak 
is reached over shale and easy ledges (3 hrs. from Lake Louise). 
A short, but interesting traverse of the Three Needles {ca. 8500'), 
on E. arete of Mt. Whyte, may be combined with the ascent of the 
Devil's Thumb in about 2 hrs. additional tim^e. From the sum- 



PEAKS EAST OF THE DIVIDE 53 

mit of the Devil's Thumb cross shale slopes on south side of 
Whyte E. ar§te, to a dry couloir which leads to the ridge just W. 
of the western needle. The eastern cairn is gained by traversing 
the western and central points over a sharp and precipitous arete. 
The rock is firm, the views of Lake Louise and Lakes in the 
Clouds are unusually fine, and the climb ideal for training 
purposes. 

Eiffel Peak. 10091'. A. J. xviii p. 112. Alp. 
Amer. p. 18. Appal, x p. 89. C. A. J. i #2 p. 331; 
iii p. 192. E. buttress of Wastach pass. Adjoins 
Pinnacle, Mt. on S. W. 

1901 G. M. Weed, C. S. Thompson, H. Kaufmann. 
From Moraine lake the Sentinel Pass trail is followed to Larch 
valley; thence the S. E. arete is ascended over scree and broken 
rock to the summit. Ascent from Moraine lake, 5 hrs., 30 min. 
The N. Tower has never been climbed. 

Fairview Mt. {Goat Mi.). 9001'. A. J. xviii p. 
104. Appal, viiip. 128. Rept. Dept. Int. 1892. O. p. 
109. W. (LL) p. 20. vS. W. angle between Lake 
Louise and Bow river. 

1892 J. J. McArthur. 

Follow marked trail from Lake Louise to the Saddleback (7983') 
Faintly marked trail leads N. through trees and to zigzag trail, 
over scree on S. face to summit. The snow- slopes to S. E. may 
be glissaded in descending. Ascent from Lake Louise, 3.5-4 hrs. 

Haddo Peak. (Sheol). 10073'. A. J. xxxii p. 73. 
C. A. J. ix p. 140. D. O. A. V. xxxvi p. 138. N. E. 
of Mt. Aberdeen, between Lake Louise valley and 
Paradise valley. 



54 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

1903 E. Tewes, C. Bohren. 

Route I. Via the S. W. ar^te over snow and ice from the summit 
of Mt. Aberdeen. (See Aberdeen, Route j — traverse from Saddle- 
back) . 

Route 2. From Saddleback via the rock rib dividing the N. 
glacier between Mts. Haddo and Aberdeen. The glacier is 
ascended to the foot of a couloir on theW. Ascend rocks on N. 
side of this couloir to foot of the E. face of the final peak and up it 
to summit. 

The Mitre. 9470'. A. J. xviii p. 109. C. A. J. 
iv p. 132; X p. 6. O. p. 88. Scribner's Magazine, 
June, 1903, p. 646. W. p. 46. Between Mts. Lefroy 
and Aberdeen. 

1901 /. Bossoney, C. Klucker, C. Kaufmann, J. Pollinger. 
Follow the Victoria glacier trail, cross the glacier and then skirt 
the north margin of the Lefroy glacier to the base of the S. W. 
slopes of Mt. Aberdeen. Ascend steep ledges and then over 
broken rock in the direction of the E. Mitre pass to which a 
traverse across an arm of the glacier (step-cutting) gives access. 
Cross the col and traverse horizontally around the base of the cliff 
(loose stone) towards the S. E. A wet, slanting couloir blocked 
by a chock stone is ascended for perhaps a hundred feet and then 
after crossing a second (Y) couloir below the branches, a "letter 
box" gives access through the rib to a third deep couloir that cuts 
the whole E. cliff from the top of the shoulder to the basal scree 
slopes (stones fall here). The vertical edge of this couloir (good 
holds) is climbed for perhaps 75' and thus the horizontal top of the 
north arete is gained. This is followed to the summit (several 
narrow chimneys and steep pitches) . From the col to the summit 
I }4 hours. Descent to col i }4 hours. From hotel to top 5 hrs. ; 
return 4 hrs. excluding halts. The E. Mitre pass is also easily 
reached over steep scree slopes from Paradise valley where horses 
can be taken to the Mitre's base. 



PEAKS EAST OF THE DIVIDE 55 

Narao Peak. 9557'. ABC, p. 33. E. of Cataract 
brook, culminating the N. W. arete of Popes peak. 

Mt. Niblock. {Popes Peak). 9754'. Scribner's 
Magazine, June, 1903. ABC, p. 30. N. of Mt. Whyte. 

No data as to first ascent, but was prior to 1900. 

From Lake Louise, follow trail to Lake Agnes and into the Whyte- 

Niblock cirque, ascending scree and broken rock to the lowest 

point of the S. arete which is followed to the summit. 

Ascent from Lake Louise, 4-4.5 hrs. 

Pinnacle Mt. {The Seniinel). 10062'. A. J. 
xviii p. 112. C. A. J. i #2 p. 197; ii #2 p. 45; viii p. 
71 ; X p. 8. Between Paradise valley and valley of the 
Ten peaks. S. W. of Mt. Temple and Sentinel pass. 
N. E. of Eiffel peak. • 

1909 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, Jr., R. Aemmer. 
From Moraine lake follow the Sentinel pass trail to Larch valley, 
skirting the S. slopes of Pinnacle Mt. and ascending shale slopes 
and broken rock to the col between Eiffel and Pinnacle (4 hrs.). 
Traverse ledges northward on the Moraine lake side for about 
300' to the base of a steep pitch leading towards the arete (fixed 
rope) which is ascended. Then follow ledges toward N. E. , keeping 
to the arete or just below it on the Moraine lake side. A black 
tower ahead (the apparent summit) is split by a chimney (60' fixed 
rope) which is ascended to easy shale slopes leading to the 
summit. The chimney may be avoided by a traverse to the N. 
(left) on very rotten rocks to a snow filled gully leading to the 
summit but it is not to be recommended. A point on the arete 
about midway between the two fixed ropes may be reached from 
the Paradise valley side, via long snow and scree slopes. Keep 
as high up as possible. This route is longer and involves the use 
of a camp in Paradise valley. 
Ascent from Moraine lake 6 hrs. 



56 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 



Mt. St. Piran. 8681'. R. D. I. 1892. A. J. xviii 
p. 108, C.A.J. X p. 6. W. (LL) p. 16. Ascended in 
1892 by J. J. McArthur. 

From Mirror lake or Lake Agnes, ascend faintly marked trail in 
southern scree slopes to summit. Descent may be made to the 
St. Piran-Niblock col (Goat pass), whence Mirror lake is regained 
via scree slopes or a descent made on the N. to Lake Minewakum 
and the Great Divide trail to Lake Louise. Ascent from Lake 
Louise, 3.5 hrs. 

Sheol. 9108'. A. J. xviii p. 11 1. Culminates 

che arete extending N. E. from Mt. Haddo. N. side 

of Paradise Vally. 

No data as to first ascent. A cairn on the summit is visible from 
the Saddleback. Can be reached by following the arete from the 
summit of Mt. Haddo. Compare with Mts. Haddo and Aber- 
deen. The peak ascended by Tewes, he calls Sheol, but it is 
evidently Mt. Haddo which he climbed. 

Mt. Temple (Lefroy). 11626'. A. J. xviii p. 
103, p. 222. Appal, vii p. 281, xi p. 73. C. A. J. x 
p. 14. O. p. 143- W. p. 243. W. (LL) p. 28. N. E. 
and highest summit between Paradise and Ten Peak 
valleys. N. E. buttress of Sentinel pass. 

1894 W. D. Wilcox, L. Frissell, S. E. S. Allen. 
Route I. From Moraine lake or Paradise valley to a point below 
the summit of Sentinel pass on the Moraine lake side. (8556'; 2 hrs. 
40 min.). Thence up the steep shale slopes between the S. W. 
and S. aretes, following rock-slides and snow-filled couloirs to the 
summit arete at iiooo'. Here the arete is crossed to the W. side 
and the snow followed to the top (cornice toward Moraine lake) . 
Ascent from Moraine lake, 7.5-8 hrs. 



^ PEAKS WEST OF THE DIVIDE 57 

Route 2. 19 1 8 V. A, Fynn, R. Aemmer. A. J. xxxii p. 309. 
From Moraine lake follow the road toward Lake Louise, as far as 
the first deep water-course. Ascend to rock rib S. W. of the main 
summit and reach the foot of the big wall S. of the peak. Trav- 
erse N. E. along the foot of this wall to a large snow couloir, 
ascending the rocks on its near side and crossing the couloir at the 
first opportunity. Traverse ledges to N. E., reaching a break in 
the big wall, immediately below the summit. Thence climb 
steep rocks to N. E. and an icy couloir to the corniced E. arete 
which is followed to the summit. 
Ascent from Moraine lake; 7 hrs. 30 min. 

Mt. Whyte. 9776'. A. J. xxxii p. 74. C. A. J. 
ix p. 140. Scribner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 646. 
Between Popes' peak and Mt. Niblock. 

1901 E. Whymper and guides. ♦ 

Route I. From Lake Louise via trail to Lake Agnes. Thence 

via scree and broken rock to the Whyte-Niblock saddle. Turn 

S. and follow arete to base of the peak. Cross a narrow couloir 

and ascend short slanting chimney to summit rocks. 

Ascent from Lake Louise, 5 hrs. 

Route 2. Traverse. Summit as in Route i. Descend S. E. 

face between main peak and a subsidiary summit to S. A couloir 

leads down to the Victoria glacier trail. Total time, 8 hrs. 

Unnamed. 9607'. ABC, Sheet #15. N. of Boom 
lake. The E. buttress of Consolation pass. Ascended 
by the Dominion Land Survey. 

(3) Peaks West of the Divide 

Mt. Biddle. Io878^ A. J. xviii p. 116; xxii p. 75. 
Appal, x p. 298. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 99. O. p. 96. . S. 



58 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

W. buttress of Opabin pass; between it and Lake 
McArthur. 

1903 A. Eggers, H. C. Parker, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. 
Route I. From camp near head of Prospectors valley, cross 
several ridges to the S. arete. Follow this arete, which overhangs 
Prospectors valley and affords strenuous but not difficult or 
dangerous climbing. Below the final cliffs, an easy traverse 
over rock and snow leads to the N. face above Lake McArthur. 
The last few hundred feet consist of very steep snow and rock 
which is often ice-glazed. A short but easy rock chimney is 
climbed just below the summit. 

Route 2. From Lake O'Hara follow the trail to Lake McArthur. 
From the W. end of the latter, take the S, bank and ascend E. 
of Park Mt., via easy rocks and a short snow couloir to the W. 
ar^te of Mt. Biddle, between the lake and Misko creek. Continue 
a short distance toward the mountain, then descend a few hundred 
feet and cross to the S. W. ridge, which in turn is crossed and 
the slopes traversed to th& S. arete overlooking Prospectors val- 
ley. Follow this steep sharp arete as in Route i above. 
Ascent from Lake O'Hara (8.5 hrs.); descent (7 hrs.). In these 
directions a few compass bearings have been altered to conform 
to recent maps. 

1915 A. Carpe, R. Aemmer. 

Route J. As in Route 2 to the col between Mts. Park and Biddle. 
Then ascend straight up the W. arete, traversing on S. W. face 
where necessary. The rock is good ; and the arete fairly difficult 
towards the top, somewhat resembling Hungabee. Time 12-14 
hrs. including descent via Route 2. 



Cathedral Mt. 10464'. Appal., ix, p. 370; x, p. 
88. C. A. J. ii. # 2 p. 141. O. p. 172. The S. E. 
and highest peak of the massif lying in the S. W. 



PEAKS WEST OF THE DIVIDE 59 

angle between Cataract brook and Kicking Horse 
river. E. of Mt. Stephen. 

1 90 1 J. Outram, /. Bossoney, C. Klucker. 

Route I. From Field follow the R.R. E. and ascend valley 

N. E. of Mt. Stephen, traversing long slopes of debris and boulders 

and ascending a gully filled with snow and loose rock to the ridge 

connecting Cathedral Mt. with the Cathedral Crags (5 hrs.). 

Follow narrow snow arete to summit (35 min.). 

Route 2. Traverse. Summit as in Route i. Retrace to the col 

between Cathedral Mt. and the Crags, thence descending to the 

E. glacier and reaching the Cataract brook trail in about 2 hrs. 

Ascent from Field, 5 hrs. 30 min. ; descent to Hector 2.5 hrs. 

Cathedral Crags. 10083'. Appal, x p. 88. O. p. 

169. The N. W. summits of the Cathedral massif. 

1900 J. Outram, W. Outram, C. Hdsler. 

From Field, follow the railroad 3.5 mi. E. Ascend thence over 
logs, boulders, and debris to steep glacier tongue descending 
towards the railway N. of the Crags. Ascend the ice (step- 
cutting) close to the W. wall, working to easier slopes above. 
From the neve, circle to the N. base of the final, pinnacles and up 
snow to the foot of the rocks, whence about 200' of climbing on 
steep slabs and narrow ledges leads to the summit. The ' * Spires ' ' 
of Outram are the Crags of the maps. 
Ascent from Field and return, 10 hrs. 

Mt. Duchesnay. 9582^ O. p. 184. Ann. Rept. 
Top. Surveys Branch 1905-6 p. 100. S. W. of .Mt. 
Stephen. W. of Mt. Odaray. Head of N. W. fork 
of McArthur creek. 
1905 Dom. Topographical Survey. 

Mt. Huber. 11401'. A. J. xviii p. 116. Alp. 
Amer. p. 19. C. A. J, ii #2 p. 218; vi. p. 238. D. O. 



6o LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

A. V. XXX vi p. 140. N. E. of Lake O'Hara, between 
Wiwaxy peaks (8473') and the S. arete of Mt. Victoria. 

1903 G. Collier, E. Tewes, C. Bohren, C. Kaufmann. 

Route I. See Route 2 on Mt. Victoria. From the E. end of Lake 

O'Hara ascend scree slopes to the saddle between Wiwaxy peaks 

and Mt. Huber. Traverse along the W. face of the latter and 

reach the summit via the N. E. arete over snow-slopes. 

Route 2. Route 1 to crest of W. arete. Thence straight up steep 

rocks and chimneys to summit. 

Mt. Odaray. 10165'. A. J. xxv p. 27. Alp. Amer. 
p. 19. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 136. Appal, xii p. 157. Rep. 
Dept. of Int. 1892 ii p. 75. N. W. buttress of Mc- 
Arthur pass. W. of Lake O'Hara. 

1887 J. J. McArthur. 

From Lake O'Hara follow trail S. W. toward McArthur pass 
(Lake O'Hara-Ottertail river), turning W. to reach a small 
glacier which is crossed toward S. W. Circle low E. peak and 
ascend to depression between it and the higher W. peak. E. 
arete is followed to the summit. In the arete are two short rock 
faces, broken by chimneys. The first is avoided by a short 
traverse to the S. The second chimney is just below the summit 
and must be ascended. 

Mt. Owen. 10118'. Alp. Amer., p. 19. Rep. 
Dept. of Int. 1893 ii p. 75. S. E. of Mt. Duchesnay. 
N. W. angle between McArthur creek and Ottertail 
river. 

1892 J. J. McArthur. 

Park Mt. 967 1^ See Visitors' Book, Lake Louise 
Chalet, for first ascent. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 86. S. W. 



PEAKS WEST OF THE DIVIDE 6i 



of Lake McArthur; culminates the W. arete of Mt. 
Biddle. 

1907, July 30th, L. Frost and Peter Kaufmann. 
Route I. From Lake O'Hara i hr. 15 min. to Lake McArthur. 
Ascend directly up the face from N. W. end of lake, over rotten 
but not difficult rock. On descending a harder but more interest- 
ing route may be found down the W. end of the peak. 
Ascent from Lake McArthur 2 hrs.; descent 1.5 hrs. 

Route 2. From Lake McArthur ascend rock and snow couloir 
in the N. E. face to the lowest depression between Park Mt. and 
Mt. Biddle. Follow scree arete to summit. 

Route J. Via the N. E. face. The first buttress is overcome by 
means of a couloir close to the N. end of the lake. Thence climb 
steep snow-slopes to the foot of a rock rib descending from the 
apparent summit. Follow this rib, bearing W. and reach the N. 
ar^te near the summit. Complete the ascent via the W. side of 
this arete over rocks which are rotten and difficult. The true 
summit is a long ridge to E. of the apparent summit. On descend- 
ing, follow the S. arete and then strike W., down to McArthur 
creek, traversing N. wherever possible. The rocks are rotten 
but not difficult. 

Ascent from Lake McArthur, 3 hrs. ; descent to foot of McArthur 
pass, 2 hrs., 20 min. 

Mt. Schaffer. 8824'. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 196. S. of 
Lake O'Hara, culminating the N. W. arete of Mt. 
Biddle. The E. buttress of McArthur pass. 

1909 M. Goddard, W. S. Richardson. 

Route I. Follow the N. W. arete until a deep notch is reached; 
descend toward Lake McArthur to the foot of the main peak, 
which is ascended by a steep and fairly difficult bit of rock-work. 
Route 2. The peak may be traversed by descending the E. face 



62 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 

toward Mt. Biddle until a vertical wall is reached. This is 
descended by a 70' chimney, filled with rotten rock; not difficult. 
An easy snow couloir leads to the Biddle glacier. 

Mt. Stephen. 10485'. Appal, vii p. 288, viii p. 
26. A. J. xxiip. 334. C.A. J.i#i p. 136. Rep. Dept. 
of Int. 1888 ii p. 100; 1892, ii p. 106. Above and 
directly E. of Field station. 

1887 J. J. McArthur, T. Riley. 

From Field by way of the marked trail to the fossil bed, an ascent 
of 2000'. Thence follow the S. arete (the sky-line) over broken 
shale and ledges to a cliff, 600' below the summit. This is sur- 
mounted by a short chimney; a steep snow-slope and a broken 
narrow ar^te lead to the summit. Ascent from Field, 5 hrs. ; 
descent 3 hrs. 

The ascent of Mt. Stephen by McArthur, September 9th, 1887, 
is probably the first high climb made in the Canadian Rockies of 
which there is authentic record. The party started at 4:30 
A.M. and it took them four laborious hours to penetrate the dense 
forest to timberline. The next three hours were spent in gaining 
the base of the final "turret." On the rock were three names 
written in lampblack: "Hall, Whatley, Ross, September 6th, 
1886." An ice couloir above the rock with the names was 
ascended; it took all their nerve to traverse a knife-edge arete 
near the summit, 6385' above the railroad. A cairn nine feet 
high was built. (Between this and the ascent of 1892, the 
character of the upper portion of the peak was greatly changed 
and made much easier by a fall of a rock, estimated by McArthur 
at 200,000 cubic feet.) 

In 1904 an extraordinary ascent of Mt. Stephen was 'made by 
Miss Gertrude E. Benham with Hans and Christian Kaufmann as 
guides, from Lake Louise. Starting at midnight, they crossed 
Abbot pass to Lake O'Hara and skirting Mt. Odaray, ascended 
Cataract valley to the base of the mountain. Mounting a snow- 



PEAKS WEST OF THE DIVIDE 63 

slope they struck a ridge which led them to the summit at 7:30 
in the evening — 19^^ hrs. from Lake Louise. They then de- 
scended to Field by the usual route, arriving at 3 :oo a.m., consum- 
ing 27 hrs, in all (A. J. xxii p. 334). 

Mt. Whymper. {Mt. Francklyn). 9321'. ABC, 
p. 37. C.A.J. V p. 136. Scribner's Magazine, June, 
1903. S. W. of Boom Mt. In N. angle between 
Prospectors valley and Vermilion river. 

1 90 1 E. Whymper and guides. 

From Vermilion pass, via E. and S, slopes to W, arete which is 

followed to the summit. 

Mt. Yukness. 9342'. A. J. xviii p. 226. C. A. J. 

ii #2, p. 77. S. of lakes O'Hara and Oesa. Culmi- 
nates the W. arete of Ringrose peak. 

Has been ascended but no data available. 



SECTION X 
The Ottertail Group 

(West of the Divide) 

The group Hes entirely within British Columbia 
territory, west of the Divide, and is bounded by the 
Ottertail, Kicking Horse and Beaverfoot rivers. In 
all, there are about a dozen peaks, six of which are 
over loooo' in altitude. The highest summit is Mt. 
Goodsir (South tower 11676')- 

These peaks are reached from the Kicking Horse 
river, Canadian Pacific railroad, by wa}^ of the 
Ottertail river on the north or via the Beaverfoot 
and Ice river valleys on the south. 

Mt. Chancellor. 10731'. Appal, ix p. 376, x p. i. 
O. p. 260. A. J. XX p. 541. E. of Learichoil station, 
between Beaverfoot and Ice river valleys. 

1901 J. Outram, J. H. Scattergood, G. M. Weed, -C. Hdsler, 
Camp at timberline on the S. W. slopes, 6500'. Ascend via scree 
and short chffs to a deep snow-filled couloir leading to a depression 
in the W. arete just below the summit. The jagged S. arete is 
gained and followed to the summit, tra.versing to avoid small 

64 . 



THE OTTERTAIL GROUP 65 

gendarmes and stretches of ice which often make the last part of 

the arete dihic.Jt. 

Ascent from tihiberhne 6 hrs. Descent 5 hrs. 

Mt, Goodsir. S. Tower 11676'. Appal, x p. 285, 
C. A. J. i #1 p. 72, vii p. 41 . O. p. 248, p. 266. High- 
est peak of the massif between the Ottertail and Ice 
river valleys. 

1903 C. E. Fay, H, C. Parker, C. Hdsler, C. Kaufmann. 

Camp at 7000' in upper Zinc Gulch and ascend the basal slopes of 

the S. tower over lawn and scree. Mount the broken rocks of 

the S. W. butt,ress toward a conspicuous snow shoulder to E. and 

via its narrow ridge to the base of a steep cliff (10800'; 5 hrs.). 

The cliff is ascended for 100' (poor holds) and then the narrow 

snow arete is followed for 500' to summit, heavily corniced on 

the Ottertail side. 

Ascent from camp 8 hrs. ; descent 6 hrs. 

Mt. Goodsir. N. Tower 11555'. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 

61. 

1909 (A. Eggers), J. P. Forde, P. D. McTavish, E. Feuz, Sr. 
Camp in Ice river valley at 5100' near base of the N. tower. Gain 
S. W. ridge at 6800' as soon as possible and follow it until forced 
to leave it on account of perpendicular bluffs. Traverse a long 
rock slide on the S. side of the peak, to reach another ridge 
immediately overhanging the valley between the N. and S. tow- 
ers. Follow this arete to the base of the N. tower at 10300.' 
Traverse base of the tower alon^ ledges covered with scree and 
snow, ascending the W. face close to the S. arete. On arriving 
at a snow-filled couloir, ascend rocks to the right (good -holds) for 
about 350', then cross to avoid a difficult cliff and continue the 
ascent close to the couloir up steep ledges to a small snowfield 
leading to the summit. 
Ascent from camp 9 hrs. 



66 THE OTTERTAIL GROUP 

Hanbury Peak. 10267'. Alp. Amer. p. 19. E. 
of Mt. Vaux at head of Ice river valley. 

Helmet Mt. 10287'. Appal, ix p. 299. Alp. 
Amer. p. 8. Ann. Rept. Top. Surveys Br. 1906-7, p. 
219. S. E. of Mt. Sharp. W. margin of the Wash- 
mawapta snowfield. Head of Moose creek. 

1906 Dom. Topographical Survey. 

Mt. Hurd. 9265'. O. p. 243. Ann. Rept. Top. 
Surveys Branch for 1905-6, p. 99. N. W. outpost of 
the Ottertail group. 

1905 Dom. Topographical Survey. 

Limestone Pk. 9442'. E. of Helmet Mt., E. edge 
Washmawapta glacier. 

Mt. Mollison. 9677'. Appal, ix -p. 289. O. p. 
240. E. of Ice river junction with Beaverfoot river. 

1900 J. H. Scattergood, /. Miiller, C. Hdsler. 
From Leanchoil or Palliser station by way of the Beaverfoot 
valley. From camp at Ice river-Beaverfoot junction, make for 
the S. E. arete, by traversing on the W. and S. After reaching 
the arete ascend toward the N. and climb steep W. face of the final 
summit. Ascent from camp 5 hrs. 30 min. 

Mt. Oke. 9572'. ABC, Atlas Sheet #15. W. of 
Prospectors valley and E. of Misko creek-Ottertail 
junction. On the N. lies Misko pass and on the S. 
the Ottertail pass, both of which connect the Ottertail 
and the Vermilion rivers. \ 



THE OTTERTAIL GROUP 67 

Mt. Sharp. 9994'. Appal, ix p. 299. Ann. Rept. 
Top. Surveys Branch 1906-7, p. 219. E. of Mt. 
Goodsir at the head of Goodsir creek, head of Moose 

creek. 

1906 Dom. Topographical Survey. 

Mt. Vaux. Io88I^ Appal, ix p. 376, x p. 6. C. 
A. J. i #1 p. 74. O. p. 245. S. E. of Mt. Hurd, and 
between it and Mt. Hanbury. 

go I C. E. Fay, J. Outram, J, H. Scattergood, C. Hdsler. 
- Jiite I. From the Ottertail river, camp at the sources of Ras- 
kins creek E. of Mt. Hurd. Ascend over easy rock (i hr.) and 
via steep snow-slopes to the Hurd- Vaux col (Hurd pass. 50 min.). 
Thence southward along the broken arete (i hr.) to narrow col 
'it base of a snow dortie below the final peak. Steep slopes are 
ascended (800') to the snow dome, 9950'. Cross to the n^v^ 
sweeping to S. E. and circle large crevasses by bearing well to the 
left and reaching narrow summit ridge. Ascent from camp 7 hrs. 
20 min. 

Route 2. Descend to dip between final peak and snow dome 
whence glacier to the S. E. may be followed over easy snow to 
:irque at head of Ice river valley. Steeper slopes and rocky 
ledges are descended and the valley reached, the traverse con- 
suming 12.5 hrs. 

Zinc Mt. 9800'. Head of Zinc valley, S. of Mt. 
Goodsir, N. W. of Moose creek. 



Part Two 
KICKING HORSE PASS TO FORTRESS LAKE 

Sections page 

XI. — -Kicking Horse Pass to Howse Pass. . . 71 

Yoho-Waputik Group. 

XII. — ^Slate Mts. and Adjacent Peaks, East of the 

Divide. ....... 85 

XIII. — Miscellaneous Groups, West of the Divide. , 90 

Van Home Group. 

BlacV. water Range and Stephens Group. 

XIV. — Howse Pass to Bush Pass. . . • • 93 

Freshfield Group. 

1. Conway Subdivision. 

2. Mummery Subdivision. 

3. Barnard-Dent Subdivision. 

XV. — ^Bush Pass to Thompson Pass. . . . .102 

Forbes-Lyell Group. 

XVI. — ^Murchison Group, East of the Divide. . . 109 

XVII. — Thompson Pass to Fortress Lake. . . .112 

Columbia Group. 

XVIIL— Wood River Group, West of the Divide. . .121 



69 



PART TWO 

SECTION XI 

Kicking Horse Pass to Howse Pass 

(Yoho-Waputik Group) 

The group is bounded by the Kicking Horse, Amis- 
kwi, Blaeberry, Howse (branch of N. Saskatchewan) 
and Mist ay a (Bear creek or S. Fork of N. Saskatche- 
wan) rivers. It includes the peaks on and near the 
Divide between Kicking Horse pass (Canadian Pacific 
Railroad) and Howse pass, an air-line distance of 
approximately thirty miles. The group is oblong 
in shape, its average width throughout this distance 
being only about eight miles. On the Divide, Howse 
peak (10800') and Mt. Balfour (10741') are the highest 
peaks. 

The irregular but connected icefields on and near the 
Continental Divide in the central portion of the group 
cover an area of some 45 sq. mi., the Wapta having 
about 25 sq. mi. and the Waputik about 20 sq. mi. 

West of the Divide and parallel with it, the Yoho 
valley splits the group and from it all but the most 

71 



72 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 

northerly peaks are accessible. Outfits may be 
taken in either from Lake Louise or from Field. 
Emerald Lake Chalet ma}^ be used as a convenient 
base for a number of climbs west of the Yoho valley. 

Aiguille Peak. 9840'. ABC, Sheet #17. Conti- 
nental Divide, adjoining Howse pass on S. E. 

Amgadamo. 9537'. C. A. J. i #1 p. 115, 175. W. 

of Continental Divide. Between Mts. Carnarvon 
(McMullen) and Marpole. 

1906 A. Gordon, A. Dunn. A. O. McCrae, E. Feiiz, Jr., G. Feuz. 
From Yoho pass, traverse the S. shale slopes of Michael's peak 
and follow the valley leading to Emerald pass. Keep to the left 
and ascend slopes to the col N. of Mt. Carnarvon whence the E- 
arete of Amgadamo is followed to the summit over broken rock. 
A traverse may be made by continuing over Mt. Marpole, 
descending broken rock and snow-slopes to the glacier between 
Mts. Marpole and President, and thence to 'the upper Yoho 
valley. 

Angle Peak. 8844'. Appal, ix p. 371, x p. 86. C. 
A. J. i #1 p. 171. O. p. 208. A sharp angle of rock, 
rising above N. escarpment of Vice-President ridge, a 
mile E. of summit. Now officially Michael Pk. 

1900 K. Michael, C. Hdsler. 

Route 7. To the little alp N. E. of Emerald lake, from whence 

the glacier and neve are ascended in a N. E. direction, ascending 

snow-slopes and a long snow ridge to the summit. 

Route 2. See Mt. Vice-President: The peak may be ascended by 

following the arete E. from. Mt. Vice-President and climbing the 

steep snow-slopes of the N. W. face, 



YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 73 

Aries Peak. 9900'. ABC, Sheet #17. Conti- 
nental Divide between Ebon and Stairway peaks, 2 
mi. W. of Mistaya lake. S. W. of Cirque lake. 

Mt. Ayesha. 10020'. C. A. J. i #1 p. 151. W. of 
Continental Divide. 4 mi. S. of Mt. Baker. Cul- 
minates the N. arete of Mt. Collie. 

Mt. Baker. 10441'. Appal, ix p. 21. O. p. 222. 
Continental Divide. 2 mi. N. of Mt. Ayesha, between 
Baker and Peyto glaciers, the latter flowing N. E. 
to form the main source of Mistaya river. 

Mt. Balfour. {Daly). 10741'. Appal, ix p. 20, 92; 
X p. 87. C. A. J. i#i p. 252;ii#2 p. 148. C. p. 34. O. 
p. 230, 283. Continental Divide. N. of Mt. LilHput. 
vS. of Balfour pass and Mt. Olive. Head of Balfour 
glacier. Second highest peak of Yoho-Waputik group. 

1898 C. L. Noyes, C. S. Thompson, G. M. Weed. 
Route I. From camp near Hector lake, via scree and rocks on W. 
side of the valley, past lakes Margaret and Turquoise, to foot of 
Balfour glacier (4 hrs.). Crevasses are passed to the neve above 
and the S. E. arete (Divide) is crossed, the arete being gained by 
way of snow-slopes on its W. side. The S. E. arete is followed over 
broken rock and knife-edges of snow to the summit. Ascent 8 hrs. 
Route 2. From the Yoho valley, via the N. margin of the Daly 
glacier and snowfields to the base of the S. E. arete; thence as in 
Route I. Ascent 5 hrs. 

Mt. Barbette. N. W. loooo'. S. E. 10080'. 
ABC, Sheet #17. . Continental Divide, 3 mi. W. of 
Peyto lake between Mt. Mistaya and Mt. Breaker. 



74 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 

Mt. Bosworth. 9083'. ABC, p. 30. Continental 
Divide. The N. W. buttress of Kicking Horse pass. 

Bow Peak. 9184.'. O., p. 290. N. W. angle 
between Bow river and Hector lake. 

Mt. Breaker. 10069'. ABC, Sheet #17. Con- 
tinental Divide, S. of Ebon Pk. and N. of Mt. Bar- 
bette. Head of Capricorn glacier. S. W. of Mistaya 
lake. 

191 7 ABC Boundary Commission. 

Mt. Burgess. 8463'. R. D. I. 1893, p. 76. C. A. 
J. i #1 p. 53, 174. O. p. 181. N. of Field station. 
W. buttress of Burgess pass, between Emerald creek 
and Kicking Horse valley. 

i<^9- J- J- McArthur. May be climbed from Burgess pass; 
laborious but not difficult. 

Mt. Carnarvon. {Mc Mullen.) 9964'. Topo- 
graphical Map of the Rocky Mountains, 1903-7. 
S. of Mt. Marpole, between Emerald lake and Kiweti- 
nok creek. 

1904 Dom. Topographical Survey. 

Mt. Collie. 10315'. Appal, ix p. 22, 91 ; X p. 86. C. A. 
J. i#i p. I75;ivp. 133. C. p. 126. O.p. 221. Scrib- 
ner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 658. R. D. I. 1905. 
W. of Continental Divide. E. of Amiskwi (Baker) 
pass. Between Mt. Ayesha and Peak des Poilus. 



YOHO- WAP UTIK GRO UP 75 

1 90 1 E. Whympef, J. Outram, C. Kaufmann, C. Klucker, J. 
Pollinger. 

From Yoho valley, via the Yoho glacier and the center of the E. 
face to the S. arete, which is gained at a point about 400' below 
the summit. Climbers should proceed toward the W. side of the 
neve to avoid the large crevasses. A large bergschrund and steep 
snow-slopes are crossed before reaching the arete which is often 
a knife-edge of snow. Ascent from Yoho valley, 6.5-7.5 hrs. 
Total time about 14 hrs. 

Mt. Daly. 10332'. Appal, ix p. 94; xp. 374. C. A. 
J. ii #2 p. 146. D. O. A. V. xxxvi p .151. Continental 
Divide, between Yoho valley and head of Bath creek. 

1903 J- N. Batcheller, C. E. Fay, E. Tewes, C. Bohren, C. Hdsler. 
Route I. From Yoho valley, via the Daly glacier. Cross N. of 
Mt. Niles and ascend snowfield at the head of the glacier to rocks 
of the final peak, which is reached by a short snow-slope. Either 
the N. or the S. arete can be easily reached. 

Route 2. From Sherbrooke valley to the Daly glacier, via Niles 
pass, just W. of Mt. Niles. The snowfield is crossed to the neve 
of the Daly glacier. Remainder of climb as in Route i. Ascent 
6 hrs. 

Ebon Peak. 9600'. ABC, Sheet #17. Conti- 
nental Divide. N. of Mt. Breaker. S. of Aries peak. 
I mi. W. of Capricorn lake. 

Mt. Field. 8645'. R. D. I. i888ii, p. 102. C.A.J. 
i#ip. 53. O. p. 177, C. p. 65. E. buttress of Burgess 
pass. Between Mt. Wapta and Kicking Horse valley. 

1887 J. J. McArthur. 1897 G. P. Baker, P. Sarbach. 

From Burgess pass, summit may be reached over shale slopes of 

W. face in 2 hrs. Field to Burgess pass, 2>^ hrs. 



76 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 

Mt. Gordon. (Aberdeen) 10336'. A. J. xix p. 109. 

Appal, viii p. 325; C. p. 29. O. p. 282. W. of Conti- 
nental Divide. E. buttress of Yoho glacier. W. but- 
tress of Vulture col. (Bow valley to Yoho valley.) 

1897 G. P. Baker, J. N. Collie, H. B. Dixon, C. E. Fay, A. Michael, 
C. L. Noyes, H. C. Parker, C. S. Thompson, P. Sarbach. 
Route I. From camp on upper Bow lake. Via the Bow glacier 
and S. lateral moraine, crossing below the upper icefall to the 
N. margin and climbing along the base of Portal peak to the 
Waputik snowfield. Cross to Vulture col and ascend the N. E. 
arete to the W. and highest point. 

Route 2. Vulture col may be reached from the Yoho valley by 
way of the Yoho glacier and snow fields. Remainder of route as 
indicated above. 

Howse Peak. 10800'. A. J. xxi p. 373. C. A. J. 
vi p. 94. C. p. 286. G. J. xxi p. 493. O. p. 316. 
Continental Divide. E. of Howse pass. The highest 
peak of the Yoho-Waputik group. 

1902 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, 
H. Kaufmann. 

From a camp on Howse river below Howse pass, ascend through 
burnt timber to the W. arete (2 hrs.). Two precipitous rock- 
faces intersect the arete; the first is passed without difficulty and 
the second is avoided by descending into the valley and remount- 
ing the arete farther on. The remainder of the climb is a snow 
grind, with only a few crevasses to be avoided. Summit is 
heavily corniced on W. Ascent, 8 hrs. 

Isolated Peak. 9224'. Appal, x p. 85. C. A. J. 
iv p. 133. O. p. 208. Scribner's Magazine, June, 
I903» P- 655-6. S. extremity of W. escarpment of 
Wapta icefield. E. of Mt. Mc Arthur. 



YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 77 

1 901 E. Whymper, J. Outram, /. Bossoney, C. Kaufmann, C. 
Klucker, J. PoUinger. From camp in Little Yoho valley, via 
scree and dry glacier W. of the Whaleback to snow-slopes and 
shale j leading to the rocky summit. The W. ridge is the easiest 
route. Ascent from Little Yoho valley, 2.5-3 hrs. 

Mt. Kaufmann. 10200'. ABC Sheet #18. (See 
Mt. Sarbach.) 

Mt. Kerr. 9384^ Scribner's Magazine, June, 1903, 
p. 655. Between Little Yoho valley and Kiwetinok 
creek. S. buttress of Kiwetinok pass. 

1901 E. Whymper and guides. 

Kiwetinok Peak. 95I2^ Appal, x p. 85. O. p. 
201. Between Little Y'oho valley and Amiskwi river. 
N. buttress of Kiwetinok pass. 

1 90 1 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann, J. PoUinger. 

Route I. From Little Yoho valley, ascend to Kiwetinok pass 
(8000'), whence a direct route may be taken via the E. snow- 
slopes (awkward bergschrund) leading to the long N. E. arete 
and summit rocks. Ascent from Little Yoho valley, 4 hrs. ; from 
Kiwetinok pass, 2 hrs. 

Route 2. The peak may be ascended in slightly over i hr. by 
following the N. arete from the summit of Mt. McArthur. 

Mt. Lilliput. 9200'. ABC, Sheet #16. Conti- 
nental Divide. S. E. of Mt. Balfour. N. W. of Mt. 
Daly. No data. Could be reached from the head of 
Yoho valley via the Daly glacier. 

Mt. Marpole. 9822'. (See also Amgadamo.) C. 
A. J. i #1 p. 53, 115, 175. Scribner's Magazine, June, 



78 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 

1903, p. 655-6. W. of Continental Divide. S. W. of 
Emerald pass and Mt. President. 

1 90 1 E. Whymper and guides. 

From camp in Little Yoho valley, via the glacier between Mts. 

Marpole and President. Snow-slopes and broken rock of the W. 

ar^te lead to the summit. An excellent rock climb may be had 

via the E. arete and down the S. face to the Marpole-President 

saddle. 

Mt. McArthur (Signal 18.) 9882'. C. A. J. ii #2 
p. 150. O. p. 202. Alp. Amer. p, 14. R. D. I. 1891. 
I mi. W. of Isolated peak. With latter peak, it forms 
S. end of the W. escarpment of Wapta icefield. 

1 89 1 W. S. Drewry. 

Route I. From Yoho valley, via the Habel glacier and snow- 
field, striking the N. arete at one of many accessible points and 
following it on its W. side to the summit. 

Route 2. Descent may be made into the Little Yoho valley by 
way of the S. arete, traversing Kiwetinok peak en route. 
Ascent from the foot of Twin Falls, 5 hrs. 

Mt. McMullen. 9964'. (Now Mt. Carnarvon, 
g. v.). C. A. J. i #1 p. 53. O. p. 201, 206. 

Michael Peak. 8844'. Formerly Angle Pk., g. v. 

Midway Peak. 9570'. ABC, Sheet #17. Conti- 
nental Divide, S. of Mt. Synge and N. of Stairway peak. 
W. of Cirque lake. 

Mt. Mistaya. loioo'. ABC, Sheet #17. Con- 
tinental Divide, S. E. of Mt. Barbette and N. of 
Trapper peak. 



YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 79 

St. Nicholas Peak. 9616'. ABC, Sheet #17. 
Continental Divide. N. W. of Mt. Olive at the head 
of Bow glacier. 

Mt. Niles. 9742'. Appal, ix p. 96. O. p. 284. 
W. of Continental Divide. S. W. of Mt. Daly; head 
of Sherbrooke valley. 

1898 C. E. Fay and R. Campbell. 

Mt. Olive. 10270'. ABC, Sheet #16. O. p. 281. 
Continental Divide. N. W. of Mt. Balfour and 
Balfour pass. (Bow valley to Yoho valley). N. E. 
buttress of Vulture col. 

Mt. Patterson. 10490'. ABC, Sheet #17. E. of 
Continental Divide. W. of Mistaya river between 
Delta creek and Mistaya lake. N. E. of and adjoin- 
ing Mt. Barbette. The central peak is the highest 
point, the N. and S. peaks being only slightly above 
9500'. 

Peyto Peak. 9805'. ABC, Sheet #17. E. of Con- 
tinental Divide. W. buttress of Peyto glacier. S. 
of Caldron lake. 

Mt. Des Poilus. (Habel.) 10361.' Appal, x p. 
86. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 150, iv p. 133, x p. 102. O. p. 
210. Scribner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 658. W. 
escarpment of Wapta icefield, between Mt. McArthur 
and Mt. Collie. 



8o YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 

1901 E. Whymper, J. Outram, C. K ..jminn, C. Khicker, J. 

Pollinger. 

Route I. From Little Yoho valley. An ascent of 2000' to the 

rocky col N. E. of Isolated peak and a descent of 300' on the far 

side to Habel glacier. Thence as in Route 2. Ascent by Route /, 

6.5 hrs. ; total time 12-13 hrs. 

Route 2. The Habsl glacier is reached from the upper Yoho 

valley and the crevassed snowfield traversed to the bergschrund 

and steep slopes leading to a col in the S. arete about 500' below 

the summit. Ascent by Route 2, 5.5 hrs. from foot of Twin Falls. 

Portal Peak. 9552'. C. A. J. iii p. 165. E. of 

Continental Divide. N. of Bow glacier. S. E. of Mt. 
Thompson. 

Mt. President. {Emerald, Shaughnessy.) 10287'. 
Appal. X p. 86. C. A. J. i #1 p. 52. O. p. 204. Scrib- 
ner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 656. W. of Continental 
Divide. S. W. of Mt. Vice-President and separated 
from it by President pass (Emerald lake to Little Yoho). 

1 00 1 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann, J. Pollinger. 

Route I. From camp in Little Yoho valley (6500'), via the glacier 
and nsve leading to Emerald pass (98.00') and by way of the steep 
S. W. snow-slopes to the summit. A heavy cornice overhangs 
the E. face. 

Route 2. See Mt. Vice-President: From the summit of the 
latter, descend 200' of steep snow to President pass. A similiar 
ascent on the opposite side leads to the summit of Mt. President 
via the N. E. arete. Ascent from the summit of Mt. Vice-Presi- 
dent, one half hour. 

Pyramid Pk. ca. 10700'. C. A. J., iii, p. 4; vi p. 
94. O. p. 299, 325. E. of Continental Divide. 



YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 8i 

N. E. of Howse pass. W. of Waterfowl lakes. S. of 
Mt. Sarbach (Kaufmann) between the Middle fork 
of the N. Saskatchewan river and the Mistaya. 

1913 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, Jr. 

From camp on the Mistaya river through timber to the lake 
just S. of the peak. Thence via shale slopes and steep rocks to 
the saddle between the lower W. snow peak (The White Pyramid) 
and the higher rock peak to E. From this point, the higher peak is 
climbed by its N. arete in 40 min. to the summit. Ascent from camp, 
7 hrs. ; descent 6 hrs. The White Pyramid has not been ascended. 

Mt. Rhondda. I0025^ ABC, Sheet #17. R. D. I. 
1905. Continental Divide, S. E. of Mt. Baker and 
N. W. of St. Nicholas peak. A long, ridged summit at 
the head of Peyto and Bow glaciers. 

1904 Dom. Topographical Survey. 

Mt. Sarbach. 10200'. (ABC, Sheet #18 "Mt. 
Kaufmann"). C. p. 47. O. p. 302. E. of Con- 
tinental Divide. N. of the Pyramid.. The N. peak 
of the Yoho-Waputik group. Between the Mistaya 
and Howse rivers. 

1897 G. P. Baker, J. N. Collie, P. Sarbach. 

From camp near the mouth of the Mistaya river, ascend 1000' 
through the forest; then up a steep gully in the limestone escarp- 
ment and over steep scree to the foot of the final peak. The rock 
is loose and crumbling; the summit ridge is narrow and composed 
of hard limestone. - 

Stairway Peak. 9840'. ABC, Sheet #17. Con- 
tinental Divide, W. of Mistaya lake between Midway 
and Aries peaks. 



82 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 

Mt. Synge. 9700'. ABC, Sheet #17. Continental 
Divide, i3^ mi. S. E. of Howse peak between Aiguille 
and Midway peaks. W. of Cirque lake. 

Mt. Thompson. 10097'. C. p. 141. E. of Con- 
tinental Divide, between Peyto and Bow glaciers. 
E. of Mt. Baker and N. W. of Portal peak. 

1898 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, H. Woolley. 
From camp on upper Bow lake to the head of Bow glacier, see Mt. 
Gordon. From the top of the Bow icefall ascend "the first peak 
to the N." over loose rocks and snow. The ascent is straight- 
forward but laborious. 

Trapper Peak. 9790'. ABC, Sheet #17. Con- 
tinental Divide, N. of Mt. Baker and S. of Mt. Mis- 
taya. W. wall of Peyto glacier cirque. 

TroUtinder Mt. {Witches' peak.). 9750'. Appal, 
viii p. 334. x p. 87. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 221, iv p. 133. 
O. p. 226. Scribner's Magazine, Jun6, 1903, p. 658. 
W. of Continental Divide. Culminates the S. W. 
arete of Mt, Balfour. 

1901 E. Whymper, J. Outram, C. Kaujmann, C. Klucher, J. 
Pollinger. 

From camp in Yoho valley via the stream from the Balfour 
glacier. Ascend the E. bank and a steep ravine, crossing the 
stream and working diagonally to the S. end of the main ridge. 
Thence over scree slopes to base of the tower, the last 50' being 
climbed over very steep slabs and narrow ledges. Ascent from 
camp, 4-4.5 hrs. 

Mt. Vice-President. 10050'. Appal, x p. 86. 
C. A. J. i #1 p. 52, p. 171. O. p. 207. Scribner's 



YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 83 

Magazine, June, 1903, p. 656. W. of Continental 
Divide. Between Mt. President and Michael's Peak. 

1 90 1 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann, J. PoUinger. 

Route I. From summit of Yoho pass (Yoho valley to Emerald 
lake), gain and cross the shoulder extending S, from Michael's 
peak (8840'). Traverse the W. rock-shdes and ascend snow- 
slopes to the arete between Michael's peak and Mt. Vice-President. 
Follow the broken arete (Angle peak) and cross the level snow- 
field to the summit, about i mi. farther on. Ascent from camp 
in Yoho valley, 9.5-10 hrs. 

Route 2. From camp in Little Yoho valley, via the center and 
right bank of the glacier below the N. side of President pass. 
Ascend the spur protruding S. W. from the peak and gain the 
summit over rock and snow. Descent may be made by Route i. 
Ascent from Little Yoho valley, 3.5 hrs. 

Mt. Wapta. 9106'. Appal, x p. 85. C. A. J. i #2 

p. 174, xi p. 217; O. p. 178. Between Yoho valley and 
Emerald lake. The S. E. buttress of Yoho pass. 

19.01 J. H. Scattergood, J. Outram, C. Bohren. 

Route I. Via the S.face. From Burgess pass or Yoho pass, traverse 

to a large snow-filled couloir on the S. face, which is ascended for 

about 200'. Then traverse ledges to E. past the foot of a chimney 

and around a buttress to a broad dry couloir running to the 

summit of the cliff -belt. Thence over shale to the second line of 

cliff which is surmounted by ascending ledges to the eastern 

extremity of the final ridge. 

Ascent from Field or Emerald lake, 5 hrs. ; from base S. couloir, 2 hrs. 

1919 W. E. Stone, A. Sibbald. 

Route 2. Via the N. E. face. (More difficult than Route i.) 
From Yoho pass over the long scree slope to the snow banks at 
the foot of the N. E. cliffs. Working up from the snow through 
a narrow gully to the foot of a wide chimney near the N. E. angle 



84 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 

of the cliff, turn left, going up steeply over rock with small hand 
and foot holds. The rock is firm and dependable but offers few 
standing places. Traverse the face (left) while working upward, 
towards the E. outline of cliffs, for three-quarters of the distance 
to the summit crest. The general line of ascent is from the lower 
right to upper left of the face. The slope then lessens, leading 
to a level bench at the foot of two or three steep chimneys. 
Ascend the chimney on the right; 50' of good rock leads to the 
snow cornice whence the highest point of the summit is easily 
reached. 2}4 hrs. climbing on face. 

Yoho Peak. 9046'. Appal, x p. 87. O. p. 220. 

W. buttress of Yoho glacier, at head of streams form- 
ing Twin Falls and Yoho river. 

1901 H. W. Dubois, R. Campbell, A. Palmer. 

Route I. From camp in Yoho valley, via the Yoho glacier and 

broken rock of the N. face. 

Route 2. Via cliffs N. of Twin Falls to the narrow S. E. arete 

which is followed to the snow-dome summit. Ascent from Twin 

Falls to first minor summit on arete, 1.5 hrs.; to second summit, 

20 min. ; across ragged notch in arete to snow-dome, 30 min. 



SECTION XII 
The Slate Mts. and Adjacent Peaks 

(East of the Divide) 

This section includes the peaks north and east of 
the Bow river between the headwaters of the Red 
Deer and Clearwater rivers and Bow pass. All the 
peaks lie in Alberta and at least eight of them exceed 
loooo'. 

Mt. St. Bride (White Douglas) 11220' and Mt. 
Hector 11 135' are the highest peaks. The Bow and 
Pipestone valleys form convenient approaches for 
outfits from Lake Louise. 

Brachiopod Mt. 9060'. C. A. J. iii p. 112. S. of 
Baker lake and Fossil Mt. No data as to first ascent. 
From Baker lake via scree and broken rock of N. W. 
face. 

Cataract Peak. 9444^ Map of the Rocky Moun- 
tains between Lat. 51° and 53° 10'. E. of Pipestone 
river. N. E. of Mt. Molar. 

Cirque Peak. 9758'. Topographical Map of the 
Rocky Mountains, 1903-7. N. E. of Bow lake. N. 

85 



86 SLATE MTS. AND ADJACENT PEAKS 

W. buttress of Dolomite pass (Bow to Siffleur river). 
Cf. Observation peak and note. 

Cyclone Peak. (Drummond). 9530'. Map refer- 
ence as above. N. bank of Red Deer river. N. of 
Mt. Douglas. Adjoins Mt. McConnell on S. 

Dolomite Peak. 9818'. Map reference as above. 
E. of Bow lake. S. E. buttress of Dolomite pass. 

Mt. Douglas. {Black Douglas). 11015'. C.A.J. 

i #2 p. 318; iv p. 143; vii p. 58; viii p. 136. TheN. 
tower of the Douglas massif. See Mt. St. Bride. 

1907 L. M. Earle, E. Feuz, G. Feiiz. 

From the head of Red Deer river, reached from Lake Louise 
station via the Pipestone and Little Pipestone valleys. The 
ascent is made on the S. W. face over loose but not difficult rock. 
The S. arete is gained and followed to the summit. Ascent 
from camp, 5>^ hrs. 

Fossil Mt. 9655'. C. A. J. iii p. 112. E. of Pika 

peak. N. of Baker lake at head of Red Deer river. 

No data as to first ascent From Baker lake, via broken rock 
of the S. face. 

Mt. Hector. 11 135'. Appal, viii p. i, p. 97. O. 

p. 278. The highest peak in the N. angle between 
Bow and Pipestone rivers. S. W. of Molar creek. 

1895 P. S. Abbott, C. E. Fay, C. S. Thompson. 

From camp in the Bow valley near Hector lake ascend the slopes 

of the W. face, N. of the peak, to the base of a shoulder separated 



SLATE MTS. AND ADJACENT PEAKS 87 

by a large amphitheater from the S. W. ar^te running down from 
the summit. Thence up the shoulder over broken rock, steep 
shale and snow patches to a nearly level snowfield, rising 
stseply toward the S. (40°) to the summit ridge of broken rock. 
Ascent, 8 hrs. ; descent 4 hrs. 

Mt. McConnell. 10250'. C. A. J. iii p. 48. N. W. 
of Cyclone peak. N. bank of Red Deer river. No 
data. Said to be easy in appearance. (An unnamed 
summit to W. was ascended in 19 10 by J. W. A. 
Hickson, E. Feuz and E. Feuz, Jr.) 

Mt. Molar. 9914'. O. p. 281. In N. angle be- 
tween Molar creek and Pipestone river. N. E. of Mt. 
Hector. Visible from Lake Louise station. 

Oyster Peak. 9100'. Topographical Map of the 
Rocky Mountains, 1903-7. W. of Mt. Douglas. S. 
of pass between Little Pipestone and Red Deer rivers. 

191 1. Ascended from camp of Alpine Club of Canada. 

Pika Peak. 10015'. C. A. J. iv p. 142. Between 
Ptarmigan peak and Mt. Richardson. 

191 1 L. L. Delafield, L. M. Earle, R. Aemmer, E. Feuz, Jr. 
From head of Corral creek via the Richardson-Pika col and the 
W, arete, over steep broken rock. Ascent from the col, i hr. 

Ptarmigan Peak. 10060'. C. A. J. iv p. 114, 142. 

N. W. of Ptarmigan lake and the pass leading from 
the head of Corral creek to the Red De^r river. No 
data as to first ascent. 



SS SLATE MTS. AND ADJACENT PEAKS 

Route I. Via the S. face and the E. arete. 

Route 2. U)ii L. M. Earle, R. Aemmer. From the Richardson- 
Pika col, by a trav^erse (faUing stones) of the N. faces of Pika 
peak and the Unnamed peak to E. of the kitter. The route lies 
above the N. gkicier to broken neve leading to the summit of 
Ptarmigan peak. 

Mt. Redoubt. {Fort). 9510'. C. A. J. iv p. in, 
vii p. 126. S. of Ptarmigan peak and lake. E. of 
Corral creek. No data as to first ascent. From 
Ptarmigan lake via the shale slopes and N. arete. 

Mt. Richardson. 10115'. C. A. J. iv p. 142. 
Between Pika peak and the Bow-Pipestone junction. 

191 1 L. L. Delafield, L. M. Earle, R. Aemmer, E. Feuz, Jr. 
Route I. Via the S. arete over rock, shale and easy snow- slopes. 
Route 2. Via the N. arete, over snow and ice from Richardson - 
Pika col. 

Mt. St. Bride. {White DoiioJas.) 11220'. Appal., 
xii, p. 227. C. A. J., #2, p. 319; iii, p. 40; iv, p. I43;viii, 
p. 136. The S. and highest point of the Douglas 
massif, lying E. of the pass between the head of Baker 
creek and sources of Red Deer river. 

19 10 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, E. Feuz, Jr. 
From Lake Louise station via Ptarmigan valley and pass to a 
camp near a fine waterfall E. of head of Baker creek (7200'). 
From here ascend along the stream into a rocky amphitheater, 
crossing a rock wall at the lowest point and thus gaining the level 
of a large fiat neve southwest of the peak. Traverse this to the 
pass at the right and cross same. Descend a steep snow- slope 
and then skirt the base of the cliffs N. ailong the SUQW tp a point 



SLATE MTS. AND ADJACENT PEAKS 89 

below a notch where there is a cave with a waterfall. A lookout 
should be kept for falling stones. Gain the notch over snow, 
ice, or rotten rock, according to conditions and with varying diffi- 
culty. Cross the flat floor of the notch to the western side and 
attack the cliffs at the corner. A difficult 15' chimney with an 
overhanging top requires a party of three to negotiate it success- 
fully. Bearing diagonally across the southwest face above the 
cave brings one to an easier 35' chimney (fixed rope) slightly to 
the right, leading to a platform and easy rocks below another 
difficult chimney with poor holds and loose rocks (80' fixed rope) . 
When this is surmounted, the southeast arete is followed to the 
flat table-like top, 500' above. This is a varied and repaying 
expedition, presenting some very difficult rock passages and con- 
suming in all from lo-i i hours from camp. The flat ne've S. W. 
of the peak may be reached from the north from a camp at Red 
Deer lakes. The ascent is made through woods past a fine na- 
tural bridge formation with a waterfall, to the glacier descending 
from the neve; but this approach is longer. 

Unnamed. {Second Pika Peak.) 9765'. Between 
Pika and Ptarmigan peaks. 

191 1 L. L. Delafield, E. Feuz, Jr. ' 

From the Richardson-Pika col, traverse scree on the S. face of 
Pika peak to the col in the E. arete between it and the objective 
peak. Ascend a snow-filled couloir and the rock on its E. side to 
the summit ridge. Traverse for a short distance on the N. side 
and regain the arete several hundred feet W. of the final peak. 

Unnamed. 10200'. N. W. of Mt. McConnell, 
between Red Deer river and the Pipestone. See, 
Top. Map Rocky Mts. between 50° 37' and 5i°44'. 



SECTION XIII 
Miscellaneous Groups West of the Divide 

VAN HORNE GROUP 

This group lies entirely in British Columbia territory, 
with an average altitude of 9000', bounded by the 
Amiskwi, Kicking Horse, Columbia, and Blaeberry 
rivers. Mt. Sealion (9640') overlooking the Blaeberry 
river is the highest summit in the group, most of which 
has been explored by the Dominion Land Survey, but 
is now seldom visited. There are no glaciers or snow- 
fields of importance in the group. Map reference: 
Top. Map of the Rocky Mountains, 1903-7. 

Amiskwi Peak. 9249 ^ W. of Amiskwi river, 
opposite Mt. McArthur. N. E. of Otto pass (Amis- 
kwi to Blaeberry river). 

Mt. Deville. (Russell) 94S4'. Alp. Amer., 14. 
R. D. L, 1891. N. W, of Mt. King. Head of 
Porcupine creek. 

1 89 1 W. S. Drewry. 

90 



BLACK WATER RANGE 91 

Mt. King. (Carnarvon.) 9456'. R. D. I., 1893, ii, 
p. 76. An. Rept. Top. Surveys Branch for 1906^7, pp. 
78, 81. N. angle between Porcupine creek and Kick- 
ing Horse river. S. end Van Home range. 4 mi. 
from Ottertail station. 

1892 J. J. McArthur. 

The mountain is hard to approach. The best way is to follow 
up the bed of the stream flowing into the Otterhead river midway 
between two groups of cabins to a high basin; cross a shoulder 
to the north and descend on the other side into the upper basin 
of Bear cree^.c which flows from Mt. King into the Otterhead 
river. (Do not attempt to ascend Bear creek from the base of 
the mountain). Thence follow a steep arete to the summit 
7 miles from a camp on the Otterhead river. Descent, via Bear 
creek, 4 hrs. 

Ogre Peak. 9279'. W. of Amiskwi river. N. W. 
of Amiskwi peak. - 

Red Indian Peak. {Redburn, Redoubt.) 9022'. 
E. of Blaeberry river. 3 mi. N. W. of'Spike peak. 

Mt. Sealion. 9640^ E. angle between Split creek 
and Blaeberry river. W. of Otto pass. 

Spike Peak. 9583'. S. buttress of pass between 
sources of Split creek and Otterhead creek. 

BLACKWATER RANGE AND STEPHENS GROUP 

The Blackwater range (Spencer Group), 8000- 
9003 feet high, lies in the S. W. angle between the 



92 BLACK WATER RANGE 

Bush and Columbia rivers parallel to the latter. 
There are a number of peaks 8000-9000 feet in altitude 
and some small glaciers. 

One of the highest peaks is Blackwater Mt. 8964' 
ascended by P. A. Carson in 1907 from Blackwater 
lake, following an old miner's trail N. E. up Black- 
water creek to a deserted mine at timberline whence 
the peak was reached in three hours. See An. Rept. 
Top. Surve3^s Branch, 1907-8, p. 78, and Collie's Map 
in G. J., xxi, p. 388. 

The group can be reached from Donald station on 
the Canadian Pacific railroad, by way of the Columbia 
river trail or by parallel valleys to the east. 

The Stephens group lies between the Columbia 
valley and the North Fork of the Bush river, parallel 
to the latter. There are several large glaciers supplying 
Bush river tributaries and the peaks reach an eleva- 
tion as great as iiooo'. The group is unexplored and 
none of the high peaks have been clim.bed. Ma|) 
references: Collie's map given above and map by P. A. 
Carson accompanying An. Rept. Top. Surveys Branch 
for 1908-9, pp. 95-96 



SECTION XIV 
Howse Pass to Bush Pass 

(The Freshfield Group) 

The Freshfield group embraces the peaks on or near 
the Divide between Howse and Bush passes, an air- 
Hne distance of about ten miles but, as the Divide 
runs, about double this. Mt. Mummery (10918') 
in British Columbia territory and Mt. Freshfield 
(10945') on the Divide, are the best known summits, 
the peaks being named for prominent members of the 
English Alpine Club. The group is noteworthy for 
its snow and ice features. 

The Freshfield icefield and glacier on the north- 
easterly flanks of Mt. Freshfield and its neighbors 
comprise one of the most magnificent systems in the 
Canadian Rockies. The reservoir occupies a trough 
or basin eight miles long and over two miles wide. Ice 
streams five and three miles long respectively, unite in 
a tongue nearly a mile wide, which flows easterly for 
three miles more. The whole trunk stream is practi- 
cally nine miles long. The system covers an area of 
twenty square miles. 

93 



94 FRESH FIELD GROUP 

The range may be approached (i) from Lake Louise 
via the Bow valley, Bow pass, the Mistaya river 
(South branch of the North Saskatchewan) and 
Howse river, or (2) from Field, by wa}' of the Amiskwi 
river, Baker pass, the upper Blaeberry river and 
Howse pass. Via route (i) under good conditions 
the group may be reached in four days. After cross- 
ing Bow pass, the Mistaya river is followed down to its 
junction with the Middle Branch of the North Sas- 
katchewan, this then being ascended to its source in the 
Freshfield glacier and on Howse pass. There is no 
trail, however, up the middle branch, the gravel bars 
of the river being followed between rough banks. At 
high water, therefore, this route may be impracticable. 
The trail distance is about sixty-five miles. Via route 
(2) the distance traveled is about forty miles, but 
there is considerable steep climbing in the upper 
Blaeberry valley and fallen timber is apt to be trouble- 
some. The trip takes about 43^ days. 

The group surrounds the Freshfield icefield on three 
sides and falls into three subdivisions as follows: 

(l) CONWAY SUBDIVISION 

The peaks form the east retaining wall of the Fresh- 
field glacier and icefield. The Lambe glacier and the 
Conway glacier, flowing eastward from the group on 
opposite sides of the Divide, are sources respectively 
of Blaeberry river and Howse river. Mt. Solitaire 
(10800') is the chief summit. 



FRESHFIELD GROUP 95 

Mt. Bergne. 10420'. ABC, Sheet #18. The most 
westerly peak of the Conway subdivision between the 
Conway glacier and the Freshfield icefield. 

19 1 7 ABC Boundary Survey. 

Mt. Conway. 10170'. ABC, Sheet #18. G. J., 
xxi, p. 493. O., p. 323. Continental Divide. 3 mi. 
S. W. of Howse pass. The Conway glacier, flowing 
from the W. across the northerly slopes, drains into 
Howse river. 

Mt. Lambe. 10438'. ABC, Sheet #18. Con- 
tinental Divide, 2 mi. S. W. of Mt. Conway. The 
ridge of peaks extending N. W. from this summit 
separates the Conway glacier from the Freshfield ice- 
field and forms the N. E. wall of the latter. 

19 1 7 ABC Boundary Survey. 

Mt. Margerie. 9890^ ABC, Sheet #18. E. of 
Continental Divide. Half mile N. E. of Mt. Whit- 
eaves, on the wall separating Lambe and Cairnes 
glaciers. 



& 



Mt. Skene. loioo'. ABC, Sheet #18. Between 
Freshfield and Conway glaciers, three quarters of a 
mile N. E. of Mt. Bergne. 

Mt. Solitaire. Io8oo^ ABC, Sheet #18. Be- 
tween Freshfield and Conway glaciers at the source of 
the latter, i mi. N. W. of Mt. Lambe. i mi. S. E. 
of Mt. Bergne. 



96 FRESH FIELD GROUP 

Mt. Strahan. 9960'. ABC, Sheet #18. N. peak 
of the ridge between Freshfield and Conway glaciers. 
I mi. N. E. of Mt. Skene. 

Mt. Termier. 9385^ ABC, Sheet #18. W. of 
Continental Divide on ridge separating Lambe and 
Cairnes glaciers i mi. E. of Mt. Margerie. 

Mt. Whiteaves. 10300'. ABC, Sheet #18. Con- 
tinental Divide. S. peak of the Conway subdivision. 
4 mi. S. of Mt. Conway. The ridge of peaks running 
N. E. separates Lambe and Cairnes glaciers, the upper 
sources of Blaeberry river. 

(2) MUMMERY SUBDIVISION 

This massif is the southern wall of the Freshfield 
neve. Mt. Mummery (10918'), the highest summit, 
lies entirely in British Columbia, its glaciers draining 
into Blaeberry river. 

Mt. Barlow. 10320'. ABC, Sheet #18. Con- 
tinental Divide. S. wall of Freshfield icefield. S. W. 
of Mt. Low. E. of Mt. Helmer. 

Mt. Cairnes. 10120'. ABC, Sheet #18. W. of 
Continental Divide. S. of Cairnes glacier and 2 mi. 
S. E. of Mt. Barlow. 4 mi. N. E. of Mt. Mummery. 
W. bank of Blaeberry river, 

Mt. Gilgit. 10300'. ABC, Sheet #18. Conti- 
nental Divide. Half mile W. of Mt. Helmer. Half 
mile E. of Mt. Nanga Parbat. 



FRESH FIELD GROUP 97 

Mt. Helmer. I0045^ ABC, Sheet #i8. Con- 
tinental Divide. i3^ mi. W. of Mt. Barlow and 3 
mi. directly N. of Mt. Mummery, the Divide here 
separating Freshfield neve from the Mummery glacier. 

Mt. Laussedat. 10035'. Alp. Am., p. 19. Rept. 
Top. Surveys Branch, 1907-8, p. 77. 10 mi. S. W. of 
Mt. Mummery. W. of Blaeberry river. Although 
listed here for convenience, this peak does not belong 
to the Freshfield group. 

1907 P. A. Carson. 

From a camp on E. side Blaeberry river 15 mi. from Moberly on 
the railway, cross river and ascend ridge N. W. towards peak. 
Bivouac at timberline and climb precipitous rocks and steep 
snow couloir. Ascent from bivouac, 5 hr. Descent to same, 4 hrs. 

Mt. Low. 10075'. ABC, Sheet #18. Continental 
Divide. Half mile S. of Mt. Whiteaves. The N. 
peak of the Mummery subdivision, the Divide here 
separating Freshfield neve from the Cairnes glacier. 

Mt. Mummery. 10918'. A. J., xix, p. no. Appal., 
xi,p. 221. C. A. J., iii, p. 4. C, p. 29. O., pp. 212, 324. 
S. of Continental Divide. Head of W. fork of Blae- 
berry river. The highest summit of the Mummery 
subdivision. 

1906 I. T. Burr, Jr., S. Cabot, Jr., W. R. Peabody, R. Walcott , 
G. Feuz, C. Kaufmann. 

From Field via the Amiskwi river. Baker pass and upper Blae- 
berry river. Camp near the stream descending from the Mum- 
mery glacier. Via the rocks on the S. side of the valley and long 



98 FRESH FIELD GROUP 

talus slopes, gain the E. arete at its lowest point by crossing the 
dry glacier S. of the Mummery icefall. Follow the ardte, travers- 
ing on the W. slopes where necessary and approaching the cul- 
minating peak from the W. Steep ice near the top requires step- 
cutting. The highest slabs are a short distance to the S. Ascent, 
10 hrs. 

Mt. Nanga Parbat. 10780'. ABC, Sheet #18. 
Continental Divide. 1.75 mi. E. of Mt. Trutch. 
Highest peak on S. wall of Freshfield icefield. 

Mt. Trutch. 10690'. ABC, Sheet #18. Conti- 
nental Divide. 1.5 mi. E. of Mt. Barnard. N. W. 
peak of Mummery subdivision. S. wall of Freshfield 
icefield. 

Unnamed. 9400'. ABC, Sheet #18. 23/2 mi. N. 
W. of Mt. Mummery, adjoining Mt. Trutch on S.; 
E. mari^in of Waitabit glacier and lake. 

(3) BARNARD-DENT SUBDIVISION 

This constitutes the west wall of the Freshfield 
glacier basin and is dominated by Mt. Freshfield 
(10945'), and Mt. Barnard (10955'), the highest sum- 
mits of the entire group. The Campbell icefield on 
the western slopes is the chief source of the South Fork 
of Bush river. 

Mt. Barnard. 10955'. ABC, Sheet #18. Con- 
tinental Divide. S. peak of W. wall of Freshfield 
icefield. S. of Mt. Bulyea. W. of Mt. Trutch. 



FRESH FIELD GROUP 99 

Mt. Bulyea. {Mt. Burgener.) 10900'. ABC, 
Sheet #18. C. A. J., iii, p. 8. Continental Divide. 
N. W. of Mt. Barnard. S. E. of Prior Peak. S. of 
the Pilkington- Walker snowfield. 

19 10 J. E. C. Eaton, H. Burgener. 

(Compare Mts. Pilkington and Walker.) From the Pilkington- 
Walker snowfield via the N. arete; an easy climb over snow and 
rock. Ascent from the snowfield, i hr. 

Mt. Alan Campbell. 96oo^ ABC, Sheet #19. W. 
of Continental Divide. 4.5 mi. W. of Mt. Freshfield. 
W. of the Campbell icefield, 

Coronation Mt. 10420'. ABC, Sheet #18. O., p. 
346. C, p. 276. A. J., vol. xxi, p. 368. E. of Con- 
tinental Divide. Between Forbes and Freshfield 
brooks. 

Mt. Dent. 10720.' C. A. J., iii, p. 9. O., p. 314. 

Continental Divide. 3.5 mi. S. of Bush pass, i mi. 

N. W. of Mt. Freshfield. 

1910 J. E. C. Eaton, N. Marocco, //. Burgener. 
From a camp at the foot of Freshfield glacier, via the glacier and 
the E. arete over snow and very rotten rock to snow-slopes and a 
small bergschrund which is crossed to a col below the summit. 
Thence traverse S. over rocks and snow to the peak. Follow 
the arete and descend to the S. snowfield from whence the W. 
arete of Mt. Freshfield may be reached and that peak traversed. 
Ascent, 7 hrs. Traverse of Mts. Dent and Freshfield with the 
intervening snow dome, 14 hrs. 

Mt. Freshfield. 10945'. A. J., xxi, p. 367. C. A. 
J.,iii, p. 10; vi, p.96. C, pp. 251, 266. G. J., xxi, p. 



100 FRESH FIELD GROUP 



488. CV. p. ^^Ji>. Conlinonlal Dixido bolwoon All. 
1\m\1 ami Ml. I'ilkinj^tiMi. 

U)i)j J.N. ColUc. J. Out ram. 11. K. M. vStultioUl, Ck M. Wood. 
11. \\'oolU>\ . ('. Kanfniiuin, 11. KuKfniann. 

I'^Din tho l-'roshtloUl tribut;u\' to Howso rivor prooood m'or tho iliy 
l-'roslUioUl s^laoior atul up tho olitTs on tho N. sido of tho ioofall 
(_(i \\\'\.; 2 \\v<..^ to hafd suow loadin.u u\'> *iiH/loau uppor vilaoior on 
tho S. K. whioh is oi\>ssod to tho main K. ar(>lo of tho mountain. 
Tiio romaindor of tho olimb is mainly on rook, followini; tho orost 
of tho brokon aroto with an oooasional short travorso. Tho sum- 
mit is hoavilv oi>rniood. AsoimU from t\H>t of b^ri'shtioUl .ulaoior, S 
hrs. wSoo alst> Mt. HimU. 

Mt. Garth. c)c)7o'. ABC. Sheet #18. E. of Coii- 
titienlal nixide. N. iiiari^iii oi FreshfieUI i.;hioicr 
toiii^iie. 1 mi. S. o^ Covou:\{\ou Mt. betwooit l^'^i^rbes 
and Fresli field bt*iHiks. 

Mt. Niverville. 07^0'. A1K\ Sheet ^Vi8. E. of 
Cotitiiteiilal nixide. i mi. S. K. o\ Hush pass. N. 
W. of Pivshlield «;kKner. 1 mi. S. W. oi Mt. C.afth. 

Pangman Peak. 10420'. ABC, Sheet iS. Coti- 
tiiieiUal nixide. ^> mi. S. o\' Ihish pass. ^ ■> mi. N. W. 
of Mt. Dent. 

Mt. Pilkington. 10830'. C. A. J., iii, p. 7: C. p. ^2. 

O., p. ;^JJ. CiMititieiital Divide. 2 mi. S. K. oi Mt. 
FivshtieUl. 

U)io I. I*!. C\ ICaton, //. Buro(-n(r, H. Dtto. 

From tiio snout of tho h^roshlioKl .ulaoior, on^ss tho ioo S. W. and 

asooi\d tho stoop N. 1*!. snow-slopos, (."rossins; a small bori;sohiund. 



FRESH FIELD GROUP 



loi 



loose rock and snow, (,,> Mu' N. a,.vlr. Tlu« a.vU- is ro.nposc.l of 
rotten rock and snow and is r,.ll,nvcd t., the suniniil Tlu> S 
summit ,s the higher and is reached via, the intervening snow col 
the route inchuhn^^ two slal)I,y Ke.ularnu-s which are traversed' 
Descend via the S. rid^^etothe snowfield between Mts. Pilkington 
and Walker. Asc>ent from camp to N. summit, 5 hrs 45 niin • 
N. toS. summit, ■; hr. Descent to Pilkington- Walker sn.iwheld,' 
I Iir. Route may be combined with asc-t>uts of Mts. Wan<i>r and' 
Bulyea; total time from camp, 13 hrs. 

Prior Peak, xoy^o'. ABC, Sheet //18. Con- 
tinental Divide. 1^ mi. S. W. of Mt. Pilkin^^ton. 

Mt. Walker. 10835'. ABC, Sheet //18. C.A.J. , 
"'' P- ^"^^ C., p. 52. ()., ,). 323. Freshficld ndve. E.' 
ol Continental Divide. • ;> nii. S. I^:. of Mt. Pilkin<,4on. 
1910 J. E. C. Eaton, H. Burgener, B. Otto. 

Via the Freshfield glacier and the I>ilkington-Walker snowfield 
over slabs, scree, and snow to the S. W. arete which is followed to 
the summit. Ascent from the Pilkington-Walker snowfield 
>2 hr.; descent from the summit to camp below the- h-^rcsiiCrld' 
glacier, 4 hrs. 



SECTION XV 
Bush Pass to Thompson Pass 

(Forbes-Lyell Group) 

The Forbes-Lyell group includes peaks on or near 
the Continental Divide between Bush and Thompson 
passes, an air-line approximating twenty miles. On 
the Divide, Mt. Alexandra (11214') and Mt. Lyell 
( 1 1495') dominate the group, the latter standing at 
the head of the Lyell glacier, eight miles long, de- 
scending in a huge icefalL The glaciers which 
mantle the roughly conical massif of, Mt. Lyell 
aggregate approximately thirty-eight square miles 
in area. The peaks of the Divide average about 
loooo'. 

East of the Divide, Mt. Forbes reaches an altitude 
of 1 1902', while in British Columbia territory Bush 
peak is prominent (10770'). 

Outfits may be brought in by way of Bow pass and 
the Mistaya river, the peaks being accessible from the 
Middle Fork or from the West Branch of the North 
Saskatchewan river. Neither Bush pass (7860') nor 
Thompson pass (65 11') is suitable for horses,. 

103 



FORBES-LYELL GROUP 103 

Mt. Alexandra. (Mt. Lyell, Query peak.) 11214'. 
Appal., X, pp. 147,210. C.A.J.,i, # i,p.44. C.,p. 198. 
O., pp. 367, 400. On Continental Divide. W. of Mt. 
Lyell and Gable peak. Head of Trident glacier and 
the W. branch of the N. Fork of the N. Saskatchewan 
river. 

1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. 

From camp in the West Branch valley, at 5300', ascend i mi. to 
the W. affluent of the Trident glacier, avoiding the icefall by- 
detours on the rocks to the N. and following the crevassed glacier 
to its head on the Divide, in Trident col (loooo'; 5 hrs.). See 
also Consolation peak and Turret peak. Cross the col and 
traverse neve on the British Columbia side, close under the arete, 
to a notch in the spur running S. W. from Consolation peak (the 
highest point of the Alexandra N. arete). Descend into the 
glacial basin beyond, crossing to the base of the long sloping back 
of Mt. Alexandra. Gain the W. arete by way of a col between 
the main peak and a subsidiary peak a short distance to W. 
Follow the easy arete of steep snow to the summit. (80 min. 
from the col in the W. arete.) Ascent from camp, 7 3^ hrs.; 
descent, 5 hrs. 

Mt. Arras. 10180'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of 
Continental Divide. E. angle between Icefall brook, 
rising from the S. W. Lyell glacier, and the S. branch 
of Bush river, flowing from Bush pass. 

Bush Mt. (N.) 10420'. (S.) 10770'. A. J., XX, 
p. 497. C, pp. 197, 227. O., pp. 314, 402. ABC, 

Sheet #19. W. of Continental Divide. N. W. angle 
between Icefall brook and S. branch of Bush river, 



I04 FORBES-LYELL GROUP 

The N. peak, Icefall peak, and the S. or Rostrum peak 
are i mi. apart. 

Mt. Cambrai. 10380'. ABC, Sheet #19. Con- 
tinental Divide, 3 mi. N. of Bush pass. 

Consolation Peak. 11200'. O., p. 397. Conti- 
nental Divide, between Trident col and Mt. Alexandra. 
The highest point of the N. W. arete of Mt. Alexandra. 

1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. 

For route to Trident col see Mt. Alexandra. From Trident col 
ascend the N. W. arete of Mt. Alexandra to its highest point. 
The N. face of Mt. Alexandra is inaccessible from this peak. 
Ascent from camp: Trident col, 5 hrs.; peak, i>'2 hrs. 

Duplex Mt. ca. loooo'. Sectional Map, Sheet 
#213, "Athabasca." N. W. of Bush peak. W. of 
Continental Divide. E. angle between Lyell creek and 
S. Fork of Bush river. 

Mt. Ego. ca. loooo'. Sectional Map, Sheet #213. 
N. E. angle between Lyell creek and N. Fork of Bush 
river. W. of Continental Divide. 

Mt. Forbes. 11902'. A. J., xxi, p. 370. C. A .J., 
iii, p. 4. C, pp. 49, 273. G. J., xxi,p.49i. O., p. 345. 
E. of Continental Divide. E. of Bush pass and Mt. 
Kaufmann. W. bank of Middle Fork of N. Sas- 
katchewan river. 

1902 J. N. ColHe, J. Outram, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, 

H. Woolley, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. 

Route I. Establish camp (5700') at the base of the S. W. arete 



FORBES-LYELL GROUP 105 

in the valley of the stream from Bush pass. From a bivouac 
{ca. 7000'), the S. W. arete is reached via scree and snow-covered 
glacier and forms the general line of ascent. The arete is narrow, 
jagged, and the rock very rotten. Short traverses across ledges 
and gullies on the E. face are necessary to turn certain portions 
of the arete and finally a summit (Golden Eagle peak) with a 
depression on the far side, below the main peak, is reached. 
( 1 0000'; 5>^ hrs.). The cliffs on the far side rise sheerly and holds 
are few; about 300' of difficult rock- work leads to a second cliff 
which is traversed toward W. and ascended by means of chimneys 
and a short snow-filled couloir (2 hrs.). At the top, a narrow 
arete extends to a third cliff of less difficulty than the other two 
but composed of very loose rock. Above this, a short knife-edge 
of snow and' rotten shale connects with the final snow arete (i hr.). 
Heavy cornice to E. In 1920 the second ascent of the peak was 
made by J. W. A. Hickson with E. Feuz, Jr. 
Route 2. Descend via the very steep snow- slopes of the N. face 
(step -cutting) with detour to avoid the cliffs forming the terminal 
cirque of the W. ridge; glissade to snow below the W. wall and 
regain the route of ascent at the base of the S. W. arete (5>^ hrs.). 
Total time from camp, 14 hrs. 

Golden Eagle Peak. loooo'. ABC, Sheet #18. 
E. of Continental Divide. 5 mi. N. E. of Bush pass, 
on the S. W. arete of Mt. Forbes, i mi. from summit 
of the latter. 

1902 J. N. Collie, J. Outram, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, 
H. Woolley, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. 

The peak is traversed in the usual route of ascent of Mt. Forbes, 
via the S. W. arete. For details, see Mt. Forbes. 

Mt. St. Julien. 10140'. ABC, Sheet #19. Con- 
tinental Divide. S. margin of Mons icefield, i mi, 
W. of Mt. Messines. 



io6 FOKBES-LYELL GROUP 

Mt. Kemmel. 10160'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of 
Continental Divide, 5 mi. N. of Bush Mt. W. of 
Icefall brook and i mi. S. W. of Mt. La Clytte. 

Mt. La Clytte. 9505'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of 
Continental Divide. W. margin of S. W. Lyell ice- 
field between Mt. Kemmel and Mt. Lens. 

Mt. Lens. 10160'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of 
Continental Divide. W. margin of S. W. Lyell ice- 
field. I mi. N. of Mt. La Clytte. 

Mt. Lyell. 1 1495'. A. J., xxi, p. 338. Appal., x, p. 
142. C. A.J.,i,#i,p.44. C.,p.300. O., pp. 336, 388. 
Continental Divide. E. of Mt. Alexandra and Gable 
peak. Head of Lyell glaciers and between Glacier 
river and the West Branch. 

1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. 

From camp on the West Branch (5300'), traverse woods to the 
flats leading to E. affluent of Trident glacier (descending frorri the 
gap between Gable peak and Mt. Lyell). Follow along the right 
bank to the E. icefall, where a steep cliff is ascended to the high 
lateral moraine at the head of the icefall. Proceed along the 
crest of the moraine and over flat glacier to the bergschrund (5 
hrs.), crossing to steep rock and snow (step- cutting) and reaching 
a deep crevassed hollow between the central peak and spurs 
rising from the E. and W. summits. Ascend over steep snow 
to the high col (iiooo') between the central and W. summits, 
whence the central and highest summit is. reached. Ascent from 
camp, B% hrs.; total time, 17K hrs, with 3 hrs. on top. 



FORBES-LYELL GROUP 107 

Mt. Messines. 10290'. ABC, Sheet #19. Con- 
tinental Divide. S. margin of Mons icefield between 
Mt. Cambrai and Mt. St. Julien. 

Mons Peak. 10114'. (Kaufmann.) ABC, Sheet 
#19. Appal., X, p. 209. O., p. 311. Continental 
Divide. The W. peak of the Mons icefield, i mi. S. 
of a low glacial pass, 8150', which joins the Mons ice- 
field with the S. W. Lyell glaciers. 

1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. 

From Howse river, proceed via the Lyell glacier stream and 
N. margin of Glacier lake to camp, i mi. below the Lyell glacier 
(4800'). Thence ascend the Mons glacier (Kaufmann glacier of 
Outram) which flows from the Divide between Mons peak and 
Mt. Forbes. , Follow its steep left bank and cross the neve to the 
base of the sharp peak, the final portions of which are of steep ice, 
demanding considerable step-cutting. Ascent from foot of 
glacier, 6}4 hrs. 

Mt. Outram. (Little Mt. Forbes.) 10670'. 2 mi. 
N. E. of Mt. Forbes. 

Turret Peak. 10200'. O., p. 399. Continental 

Divide. S. buttress of Thompson pass. A peak on 

the N. arete of Mt. Alexandra, between Trident col 

and Thompson pass. 

1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. 

For route to Trident col, see Mt. Alexandra. From Trident col 
(loooo'; 5 hrs.), cross snow-slopes below the arete, on the Thomp- 
son pass side, and follow the crest of rotten rock eastward to a 
peak crowned by two rock towers (3 hrs.). Descend to N. E. 
over loose scree and snow to Thompson pass, 5 hrs. from Trident 
col. Ascent from camp, via Trident glacier and ^qol, 8 hrs.. 



io8 FORBES-LYELL GROUP 

Mt. Valenciennes. 10160'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. 
of Continental Divide, 3 mi. N. W. of Bush pass. ^| 

Watchman Peak. loooo'. O., pp. 362, 408. E. of 

Continental Divide. S. of Thompson pass. N. E. 
of Turret peak. 

Mt. Zillebeke. 9750'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of 
Continental Divide. E. angle between Icefall brook 
and S. branch of Bush river. 2 mi. S. E. of Mt. 

Arras. 

NOTE 

An advance copy of Sheet No. 20 of the Boundary Commission 
gives the first adequate representation of Mt. Lyell and its neigh- 
boring peaks, as far as Thompson pass, 651 1'. It is somewhat 
difficult to reconcile the compass points and climbing directions 
given above with the map. Further mountaineering work will 
be necessary to clear the situation up satisfactorily. 

The Lyell massif has five peaks with elevations as follows: — • 
1 1495', 1 1260', and 1 1 150', on the Divide, while two, 11495', 
and 1 1370', lie east of the Divide. On the Divide between Mt. 
Lyell and Thompson pass these peaks appear, named from S. to 
N.; — Farbus, 10550'; Oppy, 10940'; Douai, '10230'; Alexandra, 
1 12 14'; Fresnoy, 10730'; Spring Rice, 10745'; Watchman, 9873' 
(ascended by the Survey) ; unnamed, 10990', which is the N. peak 
of Alexandra. Two of these peaks are the " Turret" and "Con- 
solation ' ' peaks of Outram. 

East of the Continental Divide the following newly-named 
peaks are shown in this group : — Hooge, 10550'; Monchy, 10530'; 
Willerval, 10420'; and Arctomys Peak, 9162' (ascended by the 
Survey) . 

West of the Divide are the following: — Whiterose, 10060', and 
Queant, 10200'. 

The Trident glacier of Outram embraces the Alexandra glaciers 
and the E. Rice glacier of the map. 

In the Columbia group on Sheet No. 20 appear the following, 
all east of the Divide :— Saskatchewan, 10964'; Castleguard, 
10096' (ascended by the Survey) ; Terrace, 9570'; and the Castle- 
lets, 9440'. 



SECTION XVI 
Murchison Group 

(East of the Divide) 

The group includes the peaks of the North Saskat- 
chewan drainage system, east of the North and South 
Forks of the latter. On the south, the group is 
bounded by the Bow-Pipestone line of passes which 
separate the North Saskatchewan from the Bow river. 
On the north, the boundary is the series of passes 
(Wilcox, Nigel, Cataract, etc.) which separate the 
North Saskatchewan and Brazeau rivers. 

The group lies entirely in Alberta, the highest peak 
being Mt. Murchison, II300^ The southern approach 
is by way of the Bow river and pass to the Mistaya 
river. 

Mt. Cline. iiooo'. C, p. 306. G. J., xxi, p. 
495. Highest peak of the group lying between Cataract 
river and the North Saskatchewan river. N. E. of 
Mt. Wilson. 

Mt. Coleman, iiooo'. Collie's map in G. J., xxi, 

p. 588. E. bank of North Fork. N. W. of Mt. Wil- 
son. W. of Pinto lake. 

Mt. Murchison. 11300'. A. J., xxi, p. 365. C, pp. 
138,251. G.J., xxi, p. 487. 0.,p.302. S.E. angle 

109 



no MURCHISON GROUP 

between Mistaya river and N. Saskatchewan river. 
S. E. of Mt. Wilson. 

1902 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Kaufmann. 
From camp at the junction of the Mistaya river with the main 
Saskatchewan river, via the W. face. Follow a dry stream-bed 
and ascend a series of shale slopes to a narrow snow couloir, and 
via the rocks on its right (to avoid falling stones) reach the N. W. 
arete over snow-slopes. The highest peak is snow-clad and is 
invisible from the Mistaya river ; it is reached over long slopes of 
rock and shale, leading to corniced summit. The rock peak 
to E. is slightly lower. Ascent, 7.5 hrs. 

Mt. Noyes. 10040'. A. J., xxi, p. 374. C, p. 305. 

G. J., xxi, p. 495. E. of Mistaya river, 2 mi. N. W. 

of Mt. Weed. ABC, Sheet #17. 

1902 J. N. ColHe, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley. 
By way of a corrie in the W. face. Above this, a steep snow 
couloir leads up to easy rocks and shale over which the summit 
is reached. 

Observation Peak. 10214'. Appal., ix., pp. 19, 25, 

91. "Camping in the Canadian Rockies," by W. D. 

Wilcox, pp. 208-9. N. E. buttress of Bow pass. 

1895 W. D. Wilcox, W. Peyto. 

Climbed from Bow pass via the southerly ridge. A narrow snow 
arete was traversed near the summit. In 1898 C. L,. Noyes, C. S. 
Thompson, and G. M. Weed made a climb described in the refer- 
ence thus: "From the head of Dolomite pass (8100') we climbed 
by an easy ascent a mountain 9750' (by aneroid) in elevation 
. . . and named it Mt. Observation." As the Observation peak 
of the map lies some five miles to the northwestof Dolomite pass 
and is 102 14' high, it is thought that this party ascended a 
different peak, possibly the present Cirque peak (9758')- On the 
map it is located i mi. frorn Dolomite pass. 



MURCHISON GROUP lit 

Mt. Silverhorn. Shown on Collie's Map (G. J., 
xxi, p. 588) as a peak E. of Mt. Noyes and between 
the latter and Dolomite stream. 

Mt. Stewart. IOOOO^ G. J., xxi, p. 509. 5 mi. N. 

of Pinto lake. E. buttress of Cataract pass. (Braz- 

eau river to Cataract river.) 

1902 A. P. Coleman, L. Q. Coleman. Incomplete ascent. 
From Cataract pass, 7000', by way of the W. side. An impassable 
cliff was reached at 9830'. 

Mt. Weed. loioo'. ABC, Sheet #17. N. W. of 
Observation peak between Mistaya river and Dolo- 
mite stream. 

MX. Wilson. 1 1000'. Appal., x, p. 210. C, p. 83. 

0-> P- 33 1; N. angle between North Fork and North 
Saskatchewan river. 

1902 J. Outram, C. Kaujmann. 

Route I. From camp on the North Fork at the foot of Pinto pass, 
proceed to the head of the narrow valley on 'the N. side of Mt. 
Wilson (i hr.) ; ascend via the right bank of the stream to the foot 
of a large waterfall, cross the stream and ascend the 300' rock- wall 
to a lesser valley whence the arete running N. E. from the N. peak 
of the massif may be gained. Cross to the glacier on the far 
side (6.5 hrs.) and ascend to its head, gaining the N. E. arete of 
the main summit by a traverse on snow and debris. Follow the 
crest of snow to the top (2 hrs. 45 min.). 

Route 2. Descend southward over snow and steep rock to a notch 
in the S. wall (2 hrs.) and thence by a steep gully of scree and grass 
down 2500' to timberline and through dense forest to junction of 
the North Fork with the main N. Saskatchewan river. Total 
time, 13.5 hrs. 



SECTION XVII 
Thompson Pass to Fortress Lake 

(Columbia Group) 

The Columbia group includes the peaks on or near 
the Divide, north of Thompson pass as far as Fortress 
lake (and pass). The eastern boundary may be taken 
as the North Fork of the North Saskatchewan and the 
Sun Wapta rivers. Speaking generally, the group is 
included between the drainage of the North Fork of 
the North Saskatchewan to the east, the Athabasca 
drainage to the north, and the Columbia drainage to 
the south and west. The air-line distance between 
Thompson pass and Fortress lake is about thirty 
miles. 

The group is only scantily known, being situated 
near the limits of the journeys of the earlier travelers 
whose climbs were often made under conditions that 
precluded satisfactory observations. Very recently 
the Interprovincial Boundary Survey has investigated 
the district so that full information will doubtless be 
available when the next report is published. The 
authors have had the unusual privilege of examining 

112 



COLUMBIA GROUP 113 



and utilizing in this volume some of the preliminary 
results of the survey and they desire at this point to 
make full and grateful acknowledgment for the 
courtesies extended. 

On the Divide itself Mt. Columbia (12294'), The 
Dome (i 1340'), and Mt. King Edward VII. (11400') 
are the dominating peaks, while north of the Divide, 
the North Twin and Mt. Alberta reach altitudes of 
12085' s-nd 1 1874' respectively. The Columbia ice- 
field in the central portion of the group covers an 
area of roughly 125 square miles, being the largest 
in the range. The concentration of great peaks (a 
dozen between iiooo' and 12294'), the number and 
size of the glaciers, and the general scale of magni- 
ficence, all combine to stamp the group as the scenic 
climax of the Canadian Rockies, although it does not 
include their loftiest summit. 

From Mt. King Edward VII. the course of the Con- 
tinental Divide is westerly for some twenty miles over 
the peaks and snowfields at the heads of both forks of 
the Chaba river. It then makes an abrupt turn 
northerly along the crest of the Chaba basin and so 
reaches the pass at the east end of Fortress lake. 
There are some fine glaciers at the head of the Chaba 
and at least a dozen nameless peaks on the Divide 
reach elevations between loooo' and 10500'. 

In the "V" between the Sun Wapta and the Atha- 
basca, a few miles north of Mt. Alberta, there is a 
good-sized snowfield bordered by several attractive 



114 COLUMBIA GROUP 



cathedral-like peaks of the 10500' class. This area 
appears never to have been investigated although it is 
but a five days' journey from Jasper. Below the 
glacier on the west, near timberline, lies a pretty lake. 

Between the Chaba and the Athabasca also is a 
gore of territory containing well-formed peaks of the 
Gothic type of which something will be heard in the 
future. Wide fiat-lying glaciers guard their upper 
approaches, draining easterly into the Athabasca 
through narrow valleys. 

Outfits may be brought in to the Columbia group 
from Lake Louise by way of Bow and Wilcox passes 
or from Jasper on the Canadian National Railways 
either by way of the Sun Wapta, or the Athabasca, 
or the Chaba rivers. From Lake Louise to Wilcox 
pass in an air-line is about seventy miles; from Jasper 
it is something over sixty miles. Most of the high 
peaks occur on the easterly side of the group towards 
Wilcox pass, but Mt. Alberta, The Twins, Mt. Colum- 
bia, Mt. Chaba, and The Blackfriars are nearer to the 
Athabasca and Chaba rivers. Fortress lake is most 
readily accessible from Jasper via the Athabasca and 
Chaba rivers. It can be reached in four days com- 
fortably, although, as most of the way lies along the 
banks of the rivers, the time will vary considerably 
according to the stage of the water. Approaches to 
the group from the Columbia valley by way of the trib- 
utary streams are impracticable. From Lake Louise 
to Jasper, a pack train will take from 12-14 days. 



COLUMBIA GROUP 115 

ROUTE DATA FOR THE UPPER ATHABASCA VALLEY AND 
FORTRESS LAKE 

The Columbia group is, on the whole, most readily accessible 
from Jasper. Mt. Columbia is distant from there about six or 
seven days, the trail following the Athabasca all the way. The 
traveling from Jasper up the Athabasca valley is good, the chief 
difficulty being to find suitable camping places combined with feed 
and water at intervals of a regular day's march apart. These have 
now become fairly well fixed as follows : 

The first day, camp at the falls of the Athabasca (20 mi., 7 hrs. ; 
trail good; bridges across the Whirlpool and the Athabasca; cabip, 
telephone, and fire warden at the falls). 

The second day, camp either at Ranger creek (12 mi., 4.5 hrs.; 
good feed) or at the confluence of the Sun Wapta and the Atha- 
basca (16 mi., 6 hrs. ; feed scanty). The ford over the Sun Wapta 
leads acrdss the east end of a small island. The channels con- 
tain large stones so that fording at high-water may be trouble- 
some. 

The third day, reach either the confluence of the Chaba (12 mi., 
from the Sun Wapta, 5 hrs.; 16 mi. from Ranger creek, 6.5 hrs.; 
feed scanty except across the Athabasca on the Chaba flats) or 
gain Fortress lake (17 mi. from the Sun Wapta, 7 hrs.; feed abun- 
dant). On the march to Fortress lake the ford of the so-called 
West Branch of the Athabasca has good bottom but deep swift 
water. It is made, at the obvious place, to the east bank of the 
Chaba. The so-called West Branch appears to carry considera- 
bly more water than the Chaba and so to be 'the real source of the 
Athabasca. 

If bound for Mt. Columbia, conditions in the upper Athabasca 
valley are harder. For the full distance of twenty miles feed is 
poor and scanty; the faintly-marked trail is boggy and at high- 
water is passable only with considerable difficulty. The trip will 
take about three days under fair conditions and there is no feed 
when one arrives. For a stay, the horses must be sent back, or 
feed must be packed in. 

CLIMBING CONDITIONS NEAR MOUNT COLUMBIA 

Nor can one make a particularly favorable report about the 
situation for mountain climbing at the head of the Athabasca. 
The valley is low, 4700 feet, and the surrounding slopes are steep, 
heavily forested, and guarded by palisades of horizontal cliff belts. 



ii6 COLUMBIA GROUP 

The peaks are sculptured on a vast scale and are widely separated 
from each other. Probably in every instance a special high camp 
would be required, with much preliminary reconnaissance. Easy 
ways of access to timberline, such as favorable couloirs, open 
staircase-ledges, and fans of scree, are rare. The valley glaciers 
are mostly broken by shattered icefalls. Once gain the upper 
plateaus, from which the peaks frequently spring, and one- is 
faced with the need, in many cases, of covering long distances on 
the snow before real climbing can commence. In every respect 
the Columbia group presents elements of quite exceptional diffi- 
culty. 

Mt. Alberta. II874^ C, p. 129. O., p. 374, 
436. Ten miles N. of Mt. Columbia, between Mt. 
Woolley and the Athabasca river. As yet unclimbed, 
but probably will turn out to be one of the most 
difficult rock peaks in the Canadian Rockies. Its 
appearance is extraordinarily grand and forbidding 
from all sides. 

Mt. Athabasca. 11452'. C, p. 105. O., p. 329. 

S. of Wilcox pass, between the Saskatchewan and 
Athabasca glaciers. 

1898 J. N. Colhe, H. Woolley. 

Route I. From camp on N. side of Wilcox pass, follow the small 
E. glacier keeping to the right. Cross the N. E. ridge to the 
glacier on the far side, which is ascended into a great basin be- 
neath the summit. An ice-slope is ascended to the N. E. arete, 
whence a steep narrow ice arete (step cutting; 2 hrs.) leads to a 
small platform below the precipitous rocks of the peak. A short 
traverse to the right leads to a narrow chimney (loose rock) 
which is climbed. A 15' wall (difficult) is then ascended and the 
summit reached. 
Route 2. Descent via the N. W. arete. Total time, 15 hrs.- 



COLUMBIA GROUP 117 

Black Friars. 10400'. Appal., x, p. 33. W. of 

Fortress lake. 

Mt. Bryce. 11507'- A. J., xx, p. 498; xxi, p. 464. 
Appal., X, p. 142. C, p. 99, 108. C. A. J., i,#i, p. 
44. O., p. 412. W., p. 247. W. of Continental Divide. 
N. buttress of Thompson pass. S. of Columbia 
icefield. 

1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. 

From a camp at 7000' on Thompson pass, cross the Divide and 
ascend scree slopes to the little glacier at the base of the mountain. 
Then mounting the high lateral moraine, cross snow and ice to- 
wards the rocks of a subsidiary point E. of the main m.ountain 
mass; ascend snow and slabs to the connecting ridge above, 
arriving on the m^in E. ar^te above the neve descending to the 
Columbia glaciers (9500'; 3 hrs.). Follow the sharp snow-cov- 
vered arete toward W., traversing a number of ice gullies and 
reaching a 70' cliff which is ascended by a narrow chimney, filled 
with loose rock, the last 20' being difficult. Above this, the 
gradient lessens and rock gives way to snow and ice (step-cutting) 
leading to the E. peak (loooo'; 7 hrs.). To avoid the long arete 
and traverse of the central peak, descend 600' of steep snow to 
S., reaching the glacier sweeping below the three peaks; skirt the 
central cliffs and regain the arete at a narrow gap between the 
Central and W. peaks. A difficult corniced arete (step cutting) is 
then followed to the W. and highest summit, 900' above. Ascent 
from camp, 11 hrs. Total time 20.5 hrs. (Actual elevation as- 
cended is only 4700'.) 

Mt. Chaba. 10300'. Appal., x, p. 34. O., p. 434. 

At head of the S. E. fork of the Chaba river, N. E. 
of Eden peak. 



ii8 COLUMBIA GROUP 

1 90 1 J. Habel, D. Campbell. 

From a camp below the tongue, cross the stream and proceed 
for 3 hrs. via the true left side of the Eden glacier and the glacier 
itself to the col (9245') E. of Eden peak. Thence via the S. W. 
arete to the summit of Mt. Chaba. .Ascent from camp 7.5 hrs.; 
descent 5 hrs. 

Mt. Columbia. 12294'. A. J., xxi, p. 337. Appal., 
X, p. 142. C, p. 108, 117, 260. C. A. J., i, # i, p. 44. 
0-> P- 376, 434. Continental Divide, W. of Dome, on 
the W. margin of the Columbia icefield. Head of 
*' W. Branch" of the Athabasca river. 

1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. 

From a camp (at 6000') below the Columbia ice-tongue, draining 
into the West branch of the North Saskatchewan river, traverse 
forest and moraine to the steep dry glacier tongue which is ascend- 
ed to the neve at 8000'. Threading crevasses, proceed S. W. of 
Dome, 12 mi. across the main plateau of neve, crossing the Divide 
and circling the head of the central W. glacier (Bush river source) 
to the base of Mt. Columbia (10300'; 9 hrs.). Cross bergschrund 
and ascend steep snow of S. E. arete 1200' to its junction with the 
S. W. arete. Above this, an ice escarpment requires a short 
distance of step-cutting and leads to the summit. Ascent, 11.5 
hrs.; total, 22 hrs. 

Diadem Peak. 11060'. A. J., xix, p. 262, 461. C, 
p. 128. G. J.,xiii, p. 351. 0.,p. 34. N. of PeakWooUey, 
between the Sun Wapta and the ''West Branch" of 
the Athabasca river. 

1898 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, H. Woolley. 
From a camp at the head of the Sun Wapta,- follow the narrow 
canyon of the W. tributary coming from the Diadem glacier. 
Thence proceed via the N. margin of the Diadem icefall to the 
foot of the E. face. Ascend the steep and insecure rock rib i^i the 



COLUMBIA GROUP 119 

line of the E. arete to avoid falling stones. The last 150' of 
the peak is gained over steep snow-slopes to the flat rocky summit. 

Dome. 11340'. C, p. 121. O., p. 375. Con-, 
tinental Divide. E. of Mt. Columbia. N. of Mt. 
Bryce. Dome is the hydrographic apex of the Rockies 
as it drains into the Columbia, Saskatchewan, and 
Athabasca river systems. 

1898 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, H. Woolley. 
Traverse the right (E.) bank of the Athabasca glacier from the 
Columbia icefield. Then ascend the three icefalls, threading many 
crevasses westward toward Mt. Columbia. (5 hrs. to the upper 
glacier) . Reach the summit of Dome by a long snow grind from 
the W. side. (The summit may also be reached from the Colum- 
bia icefield as in the route for Mt. Columbia). Ascent, 12 hrs. 

Mt. Douglas. 1 1500'. Appal., x, p. 31. 0., p. 
377. C, p. 121. N. margin of the Columbia icefield. 
E. of the Divide. N. of Dome. S. W. of Wilcox pass. 

Mt. Eden. 10540'- Appal., x, p. 34. O., p. 433. 
Chief summit at the head of the S. E. fork of the Chaba 
river. W. of Mt. Chaba. On the Continental Divide. 

1 90 1 Attempted by J. Habel and D. Campbell. 

Via the col (9245') E. of the summit and between it and Mt. 

Chaba. From the col, Mt. Chaba was ascended instead. 

Mt. King Edward VII. {Mt. Manitoba) . 11400'. 
Appal., X, p. 38-39, "Old Indian Trails" by M. T. 
Schaffer, p. 84. W. of Mt. Columbia at head of the 
"West Branch" of the Athabasca river on the Con- 
tinental Divide. 

1920 Attempted by H. Palmer and A. Carpe who reached an 
elevation of 10800' on the W. face. 



I20 COLUMBIA GROUP 

Mt. Quincy. 10400'. Col, p. 148, 159. This is 
the peak named by Habel "The Blackfriars" beyond 
the E. end of Fortress lake. 

Mt. Saskatchewan. 10964'. Appal., x, p. 146. 
C, p. 108. O., p. 364, 373. E. of the Continental 
Divide. S. E. of Mt. Athabasca and the E. tongue 
of the Columbia icefield. (N. Saskatchewan glacier). 
N. W. angle between the North Fork and the West 
Branch of the N. Saskatchewan river. 

Peak Stutfield. 11320'. C, p. 126. O., p. 434. 

N. E. of The Twins towards the Sun Wapta river. E. 
of Continental Divide. 

The Twins. 12085 (N.) and 11675' (S.) C, p. 120. 
0-> P- 377- N. of Continental Divide. 5 mi. N. of 
Mt. Columbia. N. margin of Columbia icefield. 
Head of " W. Fork" of the Athabasca river. A huge 
massif supporting two large peaks. The loftier towards 
the N. is a snow dome* the lower, a pointed rock peak. 

Peak Wilcox. 9463'. Appal., x, p. 31. C, p. 
no, 123. Flanks the N. W. end of Wilcox pass. 
(Saskatchewan to Athabasca river). 
1896 W. D. Wilcox. 

Peak Woolley. 11 170'. C, p. 127. O., p. 434. 
Between Diadem peak and Peak Stutfield. E. of 
Continental - Divide, between the Sun Wapta and the 
" W. Fork" of the Athabasca river. . 



SECTION XVIII 
Wood River Group 

(West of the Continental Divide) 

The large domain included under this heading lies 
west of the Columbia group and south of Fortress 
lake, between Sullivan river and the main channel of 
Wood river. All the drainage finds its way into the 
Columbia river. This important section of the range 
is entirely unexplored. It is known, however, to 
possess many fine peaks and glaciers so that it con- 
stitutes the last block of ierra incognita of outstanding 
interest to the alpinist that remains in the Canadian 
Rockies. 

From the vicinity of Mt. Columbia the main axis of 
elevation of the range extends westerly towards Wood 
river. South of Fortress, lake lie lofty glacier basins 
and snowy plateaus that feed long winding valley glac- 
iers. The peaks hereabouts, although numerous, are 
not distinctive, being more in the nature of ridges. 
The really important section of the group lies about 
midway between the Columbia river and Fortress lake 
near the ii8th meridian. It contains at least five 
peaks between iiooo and 12000 feet, as nearly as can 

121 



122 WOOD RIVER GROUP 

be estimated. The base level of the valleys must be 
about 3500 feet so that the general relief is uncom.- 
monly great. 

Chisel Peak. 10005'. S. bank of Fortress lake. 
W. of Chisel creek. 

1920 ABC Boundary Survey. 

Misty Mt. 10050'. Co., p. 153. Alp. Amer., p. 
19. S. of Fortress lake, probably at the S. W. corner 
of the glacial amphitheater. 

1892 A. P. Coleman, L. Q. Coleman, L. B. Stewart. 
From the S. side of Fortress lake by way of the stream forming 
the lake delta through woods and over scree to camp below the 
glacier. Cross moraine- covered tongue towards the W, avoiding 
crevasses by marginal traverses along rocks on the W. side. 
Follow the edge of the glacier until above the snow-line. Thence 
via steep snow-slopes and limestone cliffs to the summit. Descend 
to lake same day. 

The Pyramid. 11700'. Co., p. 155, 156. W., p. 
164. S. E. of Wood river, 10 mi. S. W. of Fortress 
lake. S. W. of Misty Mt. and separated from it by a 
deep valley. Coleman believes that this is the peak 
triangulated by Wilcox at 10500', but this is incorrect. 
Wilcox triangulated two peaks, one beyond the W. end 
of the lake at 10500', and the other which is "The 
Pyramid" at 1 1450'. Fortress lake is 4422' above the 
sea, Wilcox took it as 4175', so that 250' should be 
added, making the height 1 1 700'. 




L 



DIAGRAM 

of the 
COUNTRr BETWEEN THE 
CANADIAN NATIONAL AND CANADIAN PACIFIC RRS. 

Scale (rf Miles: , I 

— luai 



PART THREE 

YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION, 
Fortress Lake To Jarvis Pass 

(Canadian National Railways) 

Sections 
XIX. — The Maligne Lake Country (A thabasca-Brazeau Divide). 
XX. — Fortress Lake to Athabasca Pass (Columbia-Atha- 
basca Divide). 

Whirlpool Group. 

1. Peaks on the Divide. 

2. Peak South of the Divide. 

3. Peaks North of the Divide. 

XXI. — Cplumbia-Fraser Divide West of Athabasca Pass. 
XXII. — Athabasca Pass to Yellowhead Pass (Athabasca-Fraser 
Divide, S.). 

1. Athabasca Pass. 

2. Mounts Brown and Hooker. 

3. The Rampart Group (Peaks On and Near the 

Continental Divide). 

4. Peaks East of the Continental Divide. 

a. Trident Range. 
XXIII. — Yellowhead Pass to Moose Pass, (Athabasca-Fraser 
Divide, N.). 

1. Yellowhead Pass and Peaks of the Divide. 

2. Peaks east of the Continental Divide. 
XXIV.^Moose Pass to Jarvis Pass (Fraser-Peace Divide). 

1. Mt. Robson Group (west of Moose Pass). 

2. Mt. Whitehorn Group (Robson Pass to Swift 

Current Pass). 

3. Mt. Longstaff Group (Swift Current-Small River 

Divide). 

4. Mt. Bess Group. 

5. Mt. Sir Alexander Group. 

123 




DIAGRAM 

of the 
I COUNTRY BETWEEN THE 

CANADIAN NATIONAL AND CANADIAN PACIFIC BRS, 



PART THREE 

Yellowhead Pass Region, Fortress Lake to Jarvis 

Pass 

(Canadian National Railways) 

This immense section of the Canadian Rockies does 
not lend itself well to the plan of description followed 
in the preceding pages. The ranges spread out too 
widely and their, arrangement is more complicated. 
The Continental Divide does not traverse many of the 
important peaks so that this hitherto convenient 
thread of connection between the various groups can- 
not be resorted to as effectively to give a semblance 
of unity to the vast complex of mountains. A some- 
what broader method of treatment must therefore be 
adopted. 

The area is designated the "Yellowhead Pass 
region" because it is most easily accessible from the 
Canadian National Railways which utilize the pass as 
a route to the Pacific coast. The village of Jasper, 
situated at its eastern portal, is the only permanent 
settlement of consequence and to it the whole district 
including such widely separated points as Maligne lake, 

125 



126 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

Fortress lake, Mt. Robson, and Mt. Sir Alexander, 
may be said, in a sense, to be tributary. As Lake 
Louise is the chief point of departure for expeditions 
among the southern groups, so Jasper is the outfitting 
center for the Yellowhead Pass region. Guides, 
horses, men, provisions, and information regarding 
trails and traveling conditions may be obtained here. 
It is also the administrative center for Jasper Na- 
tional Park which includes much of this territory. 

Jasper, however, is not a mountaineering center in 
the sense that lofty snow-clad peaks can be ascended 
directly from the town so that any extended de- 
scription of its environs lies without oUr present scope. 
This subject has been most adequately covered in the 
copiously illustrated "Description of and Guide to 
Jasper Park,'' pubHshed by the Department of the 
Interior in 191 7. Every traveler hereabouts should 
possess a copy of this book. 

Good maps are available of some of the chief 
mountain groups in the Yellowhead Pass region, no- 
tably the Canadian Alpine Club map (scale i : 120000) 
of the vicinity of Mount Robson (191 2) by its di- 
rector A. O. Wheeler, and the Dominion Government 
Map of Jasper Park by M. P. Bridgland (two scales 
i: 125000 and i: 625000, 1915), the three obtainable 
from the Department of the Interior, Topographical 
Surveys Branch, Ottawa. A good general map of the 
country between Yellowhead pass and Jarvis pass 
(i :30000o) was published by the American Geo- 



YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 127 

9 — ■ 

graphical Society, Bulletin, vol. xlvii, No. 7, 1915. 
Another map valuable for reference is to be found in 
the Geographical Journal (London, 191 2), vol. xxxix, 
p. 312 (scale i: 500000), by Dr. J. N. Collie. This 
covers the country between ii7°3o'-ii9°3o' and 52° 

45-53°30^ 

Resuming the continuity of our description, the 
known mountains of the Maligne Lake country situ- 
ated north and east of the Columbia group come next 
in order, after which the trend of the Continental 
Divide northerly from Fortress lake will, as far as 
practicable, govern the arrangement. 



SECTION XIX 
The Maligne Lake Country 

(Athabasca-Brazeau Divide) 

The area includes scattered peaks in the large dis- 
trict east of the Athabasca river and its Sun Wapta 
tributary and north of the Brazeau river as far as the 
railway. For the most part, it lies from fifteen to 
thirty miles east of the " Continental Divide. The 
section is noteworthy as including some of the most 
beautiful lakes in the Rockies, one, Maligne, being the 
largest in the range, eighteen miles long and upwards 
of a mile and a half wide. 

The highest peak is probably Brazeau Mt. {ca. 
1 1 goo') at the head of the Brazeau icefield, estimated 
to be thirty-two square miles in area. 

The northern approach to the group is from Jasper 
by way of the Athabasca or the Maligne rivers. From 
the south, the group may be reached by way of the 
North Fork of the North Saskatchewan and Wilcox 
pass and from the east by the Brazeau river. 

Brazeau Mt. ca. iiooo'. Co., p. 219. G. J., xxi, 
p. 502. N. W. of Brazeau lake at the head of Brazeau 
icefield. E. of the Sun Wapta river (Poboktan creek). 

■ 128 



THE MALIGNE LAKE COUNTRY 129 

1902 P. Burwash, A. P. Coleman, L. Q. Coleman. Incomplete ascent. 
From Brazeau lake, follow trail along E. shore for six miles to 
the N. W. end and then through timber and boulders to a point 
about four miles below the glacier where camp is made at 7000', 
Further up the valley a lake is passed and a rocky ascent made to 
the glacier, with the objective peak four miles to the N. W. One 
mile over bare ice to the snow and thence via the crest of the rock 
ridge which nearly cuts the snowfield in two. From the upper 
end of this ridge, circle the crevasses to the snow-slopes on the S. 
side of the peak. The S. E. face of the mountain rises in for- 
bidding cliffs which were considered impassable. The climb was 
discontinued on the S. snow-slopes at an elevation of 10550' 
because of the danger of avalanche. Ascent to the highest point 
of the rock ridge, 4 hrs. 

Excelsior Mt. 9I00^ C. A. J., iv, p. 72. J. P., p. 

64, 83, 87, 89. N. of Centre Mt. (8800') and between 
it and Maligne river. E. of Mt. Tekarra (8818'). 
May be climbed in about five hours from a camp reached by way 
of the Maligne gorge and the Signal Mt. trail. 

Mt. Francis. 9000'. G. J., xxi, p. 505. N. of Mt. 

Stewart. N. W. of pass between the N. W. fork of 
Cataract river and the Brazeau river. 
1902 A. P. Coleman, L. G. Coleman. 

Mt. Kerkeslin. \Mt. Mostyn.) 9790'. A. J., xxvi, 
p. 386. J. P., p. 20, 40, 90. C. A. J., iv, p. II, 71. 

E. of Athabasca river and Mt. Edith Cavell. S. of 
Mt. Hardisty (8900'). Near the falls of the Atha- 
basca; base accessible by trail from Jasper. 

Nigel Peak. I0535^ For location see Collie's 
Map, G. J., xxi, p. 588. E. buttress of Nigel pass. 



130 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

Samson Peak. (Lonespur). 10091'. C. A. J., iv, p. 

77, 94. G. J., xxxix, p. 380. Central and highest peak 
of the group on E. shore of Maligne lake. None of the 
peaks in the Maligne lake group have been ascended. 
Sketch maps will be found in connection with the 
references given above. On the W. shore of the lake 
and E. of MaHgne pass, Mt. Unwin and Mt. Charlton 
are probably the highest summits, rising to nearly 
1 1000'. 

Mt. Sirdar. 9198'. J. P., p. 91 and map. N. of 
Maligne river, between the W. extremities of Maligne 
and Jacques lakes. 

The Watchtower. 9157'. C. A. J., iv, p. 73. J. P., 

P- 65, 87, 91. N. of Shovel pass. S. W. of Medicine 
lake. Base could be reached from Medicine lake, 
18 mi. by trail from Jasper station. 

Unnamed. I0I40^ Alp. Amer., p. 19. Co., p. 
183. G. J., V, p. 53. Shown on Coleman's map as a 
peak N. E. of Wilcox pass and S. E. of the Brazeau 
river tributary from Jonas pass. 

1893 A. P. Coleman, L. A. Coleman, A. P. Stewart. . 

From Brazeau headwaters below Jonas pass via scree and steeply 

tilted limestone. Ascent, 4 hrs. 

Unnamed. 9500'. Co., p. 141. "Just above the 
forks of the Brazeau river." 

1892 A. P. Coleman, L. B. Stewart but no data given. 



SECTION XX 
Fortress Lake to Athabasca Pass 

(The Whirlpool Group) 

The group of peaks traversed by the Continental 
Divide between Fortress lake (and pass) and the 
Athabasca pass is as yet unexplored, although the 
Interprovincial Boundary Survey is engaged in map- 
ping the watershed of this area. For convenience of 
description here, it is termed the "Whirlpool group." 
It occupies the rough triangle enclosed between the 
Whirlpool and Athabasca rivers on west and east and 
by Fortress lake and Wood river on the south. Each 
side is approximately fifteen miles in length. None of 
the peaks possess official names, though a number bear 
colloquial or suggested designations. Only two peaks 
of prominence are known to have been climbed: 
Fortress Mt. and Mt. Serenity. 

Scarcely anything has been published relative to the 
region, two papers only needing reference here: ''The 
Whirlpool by A. L. Mumm and Geoffrey E. Howard 
(C, A. J., vol. vi, 1914-15, pp. 74-92 with map and 
particularly p. 83), and a similar paper by the author 

131 



132 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

first named (Alpine Journal, London, vol. xxviii, 1914, 
P- 355)- Certain prominent peaks of the Whirlpool 
group are alluded to as seen from a distance and are 
named and numbered in relation to the map but the 
absence of illustrations renders some of the identi- 
fications uncertain. The following are the names 
used: Mts. Scott, Wilson, Gates, Bowers, and Patricia; 
Mt. Evans and Lectern peak are shown among the 
mountains to the west. The large glacier draining 
into the Whirlpool river at the westerly corner of the 
group was explored and named Scott glacier. 

At least seven prominent mountains in the Whirl- 
pool group demand mention here: three being on the 
Continental Divide,. three north of it, and one to the 
south. 

(i) Peaks on the Divide 

Following the line of the Divide frpm Fortress lake, 
we come first to Fortress Mt. (9908': see Appal., x, p. 
33; Co., p. 148; W., p. 159). This stands at the 
northeast corner of Fortress lake, west of the Chaba 
river, and was climbed in 1896 by R. L. Barrett from 
the lake through heavy forest and up rotten limestone 
cliffs. 

From this mountain the water-parting continues 
northwesterly, bending gradually to the west along a 
serried line of peaks of no particular consequence. 
There is a low pass opening into the Whirlpool valley 
across this section of the Divide at. the head of the well- 



WHIRLPOOL GROUP 133 

defined valley leading northwesterly from the west 
end of Fortress lake. This is the most northerly 
source of Wood river. The pass connects with a short 
eastern tributary of the Whirlpool river that joins the 
latter not far from the confluence of the so-called 
"North Fork." 

Beyond this pass the Divide traverses an upstand- 
ing square-topped snowless peak about 10600' high, 
situated on the east margin of the conspicuous glacial 
basin near the head of the Whirlpool river. This is a 
good mountain well worthy of attention. 

Next the Divide sweeps to the southwest for a 
couple of miles along the boundar}^ wall of the glacier 
basin just mentioned and then, turning westward 
crosses a flat snowfield and mounts to a fine snow peak 
rising from its midst that cannot well be more than 
three or four miles east of Athabasca pass. This is a 
striking mountain, close on to iiooo' high and de- 
serves notice as occupying the spot where the fabulous 
"Mt. Hooker" is indicated on the early maps. Pro- 
ceeding westerly from here the Divide sags into a 
snowy saddle at the head of another glacial basin 
draining to the Whirlpool and then, crossing a wide- 
spreading, ridge-shaped mass, drops down along a 
wall to the famous Athabasca pass. 

(2) Peak South of the Divide 

The single mountain of importance south of the 
Divide in this section is Mt. Serenity, climbed \\4thout 



134 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

guides by H. Palmer, A. Carpe, and W. D. Harris in 
1920. It is situated within gunshot of the water- 
parting, midway between "Mt. Hooker" and the 
square-topped peak just mentioned. The mountain is 
conspicuous from Fortress lake by reason of the splen- 
did glacier which mantles it on the S. E. side and was 
triangulated by W. Wilcox in 1896 (W. pp. 158, 160) 
from the lake shores. The distance was found to be 
17 miles and the altitude obtained 10505', but this 
should be increased to 10750', the lake lying at an 
elevation of 4420' instead of 4175', the figure then 
adopted. 

The mountain was climbed from a base-camp a 
mile below the glacier tongue, the medial moraine 
of the latter indicating the general line of attack. 
A large and difficult bergschrund was encountered 
below the pronounced col in the southerly ridge which, 
when attained, was followed to the summit. The 
rock buttress on the arete was surmounted by a risky 
couloir, after which a narrow corniced snow-and-ice 
arete led to the rocks of the main peak. A height of 
10550' was indicated by barometer. The ascent 
consumed 10 3^ hrs., the descent 43^ hrs. 

(3) Peaks North of the Divide 

The most prominent mountain here is situated at 
the northerly point of the group in the angle between 
the Athabasca and Whirlpool rivers. It bears no name 



WHIRLPOOL GROUP 135 

but was triangulated by the Bridgland survey of 
Jasper Park at I0988^ It looks like an uncommonly 
difficult peak to scale as smooth bands of cliff guard 
it on two sides and the aretes are broken and jagged. 
It carries very little snow. The most favorable 
approach is probably from the west via the Whirlpool 
river. 

The next noteworthy peak of the group stands 
about half-a-dozen miles to the south of the one 
just mentioned, overlooking the Athabasca. It may 
be described as an isolated central tower, midway 
between two gables, the trio rising a thousand feet or 
so from a common base, which is itself no mean 
mountain. The easterly gable is visible from Jasper, 
as is the top of the central tower. The aspect of the 
latter is most forbidding, soaring up sheerly like a giant 
tooth. The mountain has been dubbed "The Gal- 
leon" which seems an appropriate designation. The 
height must be nearly loooo'. 

Between "The Galleon" and Fortress Mt. and 
closely adjacent to the latter, opposite to the bend of 
the Athabasca, where the Chaba river joins it, stands a 
high fiat-topped mountain embellished with a sweep- 
snowfield. It is probably a little over lOOOo' high. 
A glacier descends into a notch whence waterfalls foam 
down towards the river. It is a good peak and may 
be the "Mt. of the Cross" of Coleman (p. 147). 



SECTION XXI 
Columbia-Fraser Divide West of Athabasca Pass. 

This unexplored district comprises the extensive 
belt of mountains lying north of Wood river and 
bounded on the other sides by the Fraser, Canoe, and 
McLennan rivers. Although situated well to the west 
of the Continental Divide, the district approaches it 
closely in the vicinity of Athabasca pass, the Fraser 
and branches of Wood and Canoe rivers all having 
their sources on a common watershed within a few 
miles of the pass. The area is roughly twenty miles 
wide and sixty miles long. 

Despite its extent, it is doubtful whether it can 
boast of more than four peaks in the' 10500' class, 
although there are many sizeable snowfields and gla- 
ciers scattered amongst its innumerable lesser peaks, 
notably in the angle between Canoe and Wood rivers. 
Three of these prominent mountains occur in a line 
along the lower course of Canoe river between Harvey 
and Baker creeks, as nearly as can be estimated from a 
distant view. The two northerly ones are splendid, 
rock-walled massifs and would well repay investi- 

136 



COLUMBIA-FRASER AITS. 137 

gation. They should be approached from the 
Canoe river side. The fourth mountain in question 
is located in the northerly portion of the group, west 
of INIt. Geikie. It is a mound-shaped, rather feature- 
less mass of not very great interest, aside from its 
height. 

In connection with this district see, ''The Topo- 
graphy of the Gold Range and Northern Selkirks," by 
Howard Palmer ; Geographical Journal, vol. Ivii (1921), 
pp. 21-29, illustrations and map; also a paper by 
the same author, ''Early Explorations for the Canadian 
Pacific Railway,'' Bulletin, Geographical Society of 
Philadelphia, vol. xA'i (1918), pp. 75-91 with map and 
illustrations. 



SECTION XXII 
Athabasca Pass to Yellowhead Pass 

(Athabasca-Fraser Divide, South) 

This section embraces the peaks on and near the 
Continental Divide between Athabasca pass and 
Yellowhead pass. The air-line distance is about 
thirty-five miles. 

(i) Athabasca Pass 5751' 

The Athabasca pass is the historic gateway between 
the basins of the Athabasca and Columbia rivers 
traversed for many years by the fur traders in the 
traffic between the plains and the Pacific. It was 
discovered in 181 1 by David Thompson. In the 
early spring before high-water, a brigade of boats 
would start from the Pacific and work up the Colum- 
bia as far as Boat Encampment. At about the same 
time the "Express" would set forth from Edmonton 
and by boat and pack-train make its way to the pass 
from that side. Leaving the horses, the men would 
descend the steep south slope of the pass and follow 

• 138 



MTS. BROWN AND HOOKER 139 

Wood river, with many a ford, to Boat Encampment. 
Meeting the other party there, they would effect a 
mutual exchange of freight, letters, and passengers, 
whereupon the boats would drop down the Columbia 
again to the Pacific and the others would return up the 
pass and retrace their route to Edmonton and thence 
to Hudson's Bay. In places, this old trail, although 
long ago abandoned and heavily overgrown with 
bushes, may still be found worn deep into the soil. 

(2) Mounts Brown and Hooker 

The pass is also associated with the legendary 
giants, Mounts Brown and Hooker, which secured a 
world-wide and lasting fame by reason of the enor- 
mously exaggerated altitudes attributed to them by 
the botanist, David Douglas, who climbed Mount 
Brown on his way across the pass in 1827, later 
announcing that it was 16000' or 17000' above the 
level of the sea, the highest mounta;in yet known in 
North America. 

Mt. Brown. 9050'. and Mt. Hooker. 86oo'(?). 
A. J., xxviii, p. 363. C, p. 122, 151. C. A. J., i, #1, 
p. 43; vi, p. 90; ix, p. 45. Co., p. 206. G. J., V, p. 53. 
O., p. 429. J. P., p. 22. Shown on the Palliser and 
other maps as flanking Athabasca pass on the N. W- 
and S. E. respectively. 

Narrative of David Douglas, 1827. (Companion to the Botanical 
Magazine, vol. ii, p. 132, 1836). "Being well rested by one o'clock, 



I40 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

I set out with the view of ascending what seemed to be the highest 
peak on the north. Its height does not appear to be less than six- 
teen thousand or seventeen thousand feet above the level of the 
sea. After passing over the lower ridge, I came to about 1200' 
of by far the most difficult and fatiguing walking I have ever 
experienced, and the utmost care was required to tread safely 
over the crust of snow. . . . The view from the summit is of 
too awful a cast to afford pleasure. Nothing can be seen, in 
every direction as far as the eye can reach, except mountains 
towering above each other, rugged beyond description. . . . 
This peak, the highest yet known in the northern continent of 
America, I feel a sincere pleasure in naming 'Mt. Brown,' in 
honor of R. Brown, Esq., the illustrious botanist. ... A little 
to the southward is one nearly the same height, rising into a 
sharper point; this I named 'Mt. Hooker,' in honor of my early 
patron, the professor of Botany in the University of Glasgow. 
This mountain, however, I was not able to climb." 

Douglas's innocent though careless assertion regard- 
ing the elevations has been fraught with far-reaching 
consequences. Space forbids reviewing them here but 
certain outstanding facts deserve preservation in the 
mountain lore of the Canadian Rockies. 

The ascent of Mt. Brown was the earliest alpine climb in west- 
ern Canada and perhaps in North America. . 

Every commentator hitherto has ignored the fact that on the 
day of his climb Douglas had already made a seven-and-a-half 
hour laborious march (from 4:30 a.m. to 12 :oo m.) through four or 
five feet of snow from a camp on the steep south slope of the pass 
five miles below the summit. After only an hour's rest, he set 
forth alone for his peak and did not return until evening, all of 
which makes his performance moie creditable. (Ermatinger's 
Journal, Trans. Royal Soc. Canada, 1912, Sec. II., p. 80.) 

As his starting point was a camp about a mile beyond the 



MTS. BROWN AND HOOKER 141 

height of land towards the north and the day was half spent, 
undoubtedly Douglas headed for and climbed the peak nearest to 
him which may not have been the peak nearest to the pass. He 
does not state that Mt. Hooker was on the opposite side of the 
pass although it is so shown on the map accompanying Hooker's 
Flora Boreali — Americana the publication of which Douglas 
superintended. On this map the heights given are 16000' and 
15700'. An English traveler, Mr. A. L. Mumm, who visited the 
pass in 19 13 and climbed the mountain nearest to it on the north 
suggests that it was too difficult for a man of limited alpine 
experience to ascend alone and that Douglas probably climbed an 
adjacent peak more remote from the pass. The facts above 
mentioned would support this hypothesis. The question can 
only be settled, however, by a careful examination on the spot 
and the aScent of both peaks to determine which is the loftier 
and which the more difficult. 

Douglas's exaggerated estimate of the height was due to an 
assumption of iiooo' for the elevation of Athabasca pass, which 
figure had almost certainly been communicated to him by Sir 
George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company whom 
he met some weeks after his ascent. This figure was also adopted 
and published by David Thompson and Ross Cox. Yet, as a 
capable botanist, how was it possible for Douglas to accept as he 
did accept the necessary corollary of this atltitude, namely, that 
timberline in the Rocky Mountains occurred at 13750' above sea- 
level as his own figures showed? (C. A. J., vol. ix, pp. 45-53-) 

The reputed existence of such gigantic peaks led several expedi- 
tions to search for them so that the beginning of exploration 
amongst the higher Canadian Rockies is directly attributable to 
this error. Not until the inception of governmental surveys and 
the construction of new railways was an equally strong impetus 
given to the exploration of the country. 

The following is a brief resume of early expeditions to the 
Northern Canadian Rockies undertaken purely for purposes of 
mountain exploration: 



142 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 



m 



RESUME OF EARLY EXPEDITIONS 

1. Expeditions of A. P. Coleman. Three expeditions were 
undertaken. The first in 1888 by way of the Columbia was 
unsuccessful. On the second expedition in 1892 by way of the 
Saskatchewan and Poboktan pass, Fortress lake was discovered 
and several high peaks nearby ascended. It was not, however, 
until the expedition of 1893 that Athabasca pass was reached. 
In 1893, the highest mountain on the N. W. side of Athabasca 
pass was ascended by L. Q. Coleman and L. B. Stewart: "Easy 
ascent over good slopes, including a mile of snowfield, but ending 
near the top with stiff er work, needing both hands and feet, while 
the very top was capped with a heavy snow cornice which they 
did not think it wise to attempt. . . . That the right mountain 
was climbed is certain, since there is no other even as high within 
ten miles on the N. W. side of the pass." Aneroid and boiling 
point determinations of the height of the pass, gave a figure of 
5710' and a height for Mt. Brown of 9050'. "The question of Mt. 
Hooker is less certain. A ridge-like mountain . . . rises to 8600' 
S. E. of the pass at the point where Hooker is indicated on Palli- 
ser's map, (this was climbed by Coleman and Stewart), but a 
much finer peak rises a few miles E. of the Punch Bowl, with fields 
of snow and a large glacier and was estimated at about iiooo'." 

2. Expedition of W. D. Wilcox. In 1896 Wilcox set out from 
Laggan on the Canadian Pacific, proceeding northward via Bow 
pass, the Mistaya river and North Fork of the North Saskatche- 
wan. A high pass near its headquarters took them into the Sun 
Wapta branch of the Athabasca. This was the first party on 
record to cross the pass and as "Wilcox pass" it has been known 
ever since. Fortress lake was visited and a number of high 
peaks in the vicinity were triangulated and climbed but Athabasca 
pass itself was not reached. 

3. Expedition of J. N. Collie. In 1897 from mountains near 
the Freshfield glacier. Collie sighted a very high peak to the N. 
which he thought could be none other than one of the giants 
Hooker or Brown as, on the map of that time, only these were 
shown N. of Mt. Lyell. Accordingly in 1898 he organized a party 
to investigate them, setting forth from Laggan and following 
Wilcox's route of two years before. From the neighborhood of 
Wilcox pass a number of climbs were made near the Continental 
Divide. These supplied the first knowledge of the topography 
of the Columbia group, one of the most important in the range. 
Mts. Columbia, Bryce, Dome, Twins, Alberta, Diadem, and 



RAMPART GROUP 143 



Woolley were named at that time, to mention only the chief. 
A map was pubhshed later by Collie which, with subsequent 
extensions, has been the standard ever since. Only the work of 
the Interprovincial Boundary Survey, now in process of issuance, 
will supersede it in so far as they overlap. The Collie party were 
the first to visit the Columbia snowfield and to see the source of 
the main Athabasca river. They ascended the Dome, Diadem, 
and Athabasca peaks. 

4. Expedition of Jean Habel, 1901. This party also came 
from Laggan via Wilcox pass, the special objective being the 
country south of Fortress lake. The latter was visited and the 
sources of the Chaba and Athabasca were explored for the first 
time, several ascents being carried out. 

5. Expedition of James Outram, 1901. Although having no 
relation to Mts. Brown and Hooker, this expedition is included 
on account of its important mountaineering results. Mts. 
Columbia, Bryce, and Forbes were ascended, the latter in con- 
junction with Dr. Coirie who was again in the field with an explor- 
ing party. The West branch of the North Fork of the North 
Saskatchewan was explored. 

(3) The Rampart Group 

(P^eaks on and near the Continental Divide) 

Between Athabasca pass and Yellowhead pass the 
principal group is ' ' The Rampart group . ' ' Commenc- 
ing about ten miles north of Athabasca pass, it extends 
a like distance along the Continental Divide midway 
between the Athabasca and Fraser rivers. The 
section of the Divide between it and Athabasca pass 
is not yet explored but no peaks of special prominence 
occur on or near it until the immediate vicinity of the 
Rampart group is reached. Here, however, four or 
five good rock peaks are to be found upwards of 
9500' high. The Rampart group lies immediately 



144 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

north of the headwaters of the so-called "North Whirl- 
pool" which in fact is the west branch of that river. 
It centers about a nameless snowy horn nearly or 
quite 1 1 goo' high on the Divide. Like spokes of a 
wheel, four major ridges radiate irregularly from this 
hub peak: (i.) Towards the southwest over which the 
Divide approaches the group and which supports the 
rock peaks just mentioned; (2.) towards the south- 
east through Mt. Erebus and Mt. Edith Cavell; (3.) 
towards the northeast, bending north and then north- 
west to Mt. Geikie, carrying the Divide and des- 
ignated on the map of Jasper Park as The Ramparts; 
(4.)towards the west and north, carrying Postern and 
Casemate mountains. 

The principal peaks of all these ranges excepting (2) 
are for convenience of description included under 
the "Rampart Group." Range (2), a lateral off- 
shoot connecting Mt. Edith Cavell with the Divide, 
is described under "(4) Peaks east of the Con- 
tinental Divide," as it is separated from the Ram- 
part group by the glacial pass occupied by "Eraser" 
glacier. 

Between these radiating ranges occur sizeable 
glaciers, six forming the source of the west branch of 
the Whirlpool, and one between (3) and (4), about 
five miles long, draining into the Eraser river along the 
south side of Mt. Geikie. On the northwesterly 
side of the high snow peak as well, two other fine gla- 
ciers are to be found, draining the same way. They 



RAMPART GROUP 145 

must each be several miles long, and after following 
circuitous courses their tongues meet on the shore 
of a small lake at the base of Casemate peak sur- 
rounded by frowning precipices. 

The culminating summit of the Rampart group ap- 
pears to be the high snow peak just mentioned which 
probably reaches iiooo'. Next in order come Mt. 
Geikie ( 10854') ^nd the two "Fraser" peaks ( 10775') 
and (1072 60- All of these except Mt. Geikie are on 
the Divide. The group is so named on account of the 
singular mural formation which the Continental 
Divide assumes for some seven miles between Mt. 
Fraser and Mt. Geikie. For almost all this distance 
a precipitous escarpment rises above open meadows, 
crowned with jagged, turreted pinnacles some of which 
are prettily reflected in the Amethyst lakes. Many of 
the peaks exceed loooo' in height. 

Between the Athabasca and Yellowhead passes 
only one well-defined pass on the Continental Divide is 
at present known: Tonquin pass (6300'), near Mt. 
Geikie. 

The Rampart group and Tonquin valley may be 
reached by pack train in two long days from Jasper 
over a. fair trail. The route is via Whistlers creek, 
Marmot pass (7800'), and Portal creek. 

Barbican Peak. loioo^ C. A. J., x, p. 75. J. P., 

p. 53, 88. W. of Continental Divide. Adjoins Mt. 
Geikie on W. 



146 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

Bastion Peak. 9700'. C. A. J., x, p. 75. J. P., p. 

52, 88. Continental Divide. S. buttress of Tonquin 
pass. Between Redoubt and Turret peaks. 

Casemate Mt. ca. IOooo^ J. P., p. 48. W. of 

Continental Divide. S. E. of Postern Mt. N. W. of 
Mt. Fraser. 

t 
Dungeon Peak. 10200'. C. A. J., x, p. 75. J. P., 

p. 47, 51, 89. Continental Divide. Adjacent to 

Mt. Fraser on N. and S. of Redoubt peak. 

Mt. Fitzwilliam. (Pelee). 9549'. C. A. J., iv, p. 12. 

J. P., p. 59, 90. W. of Continental Divide. S. of 
Yellowhead pass. S. E. of Lucerne station. 

Mt. Fraser. 10776' (W.) and 10726' (E.). C. A. J., 
X, p. 74. J. P., p. 47, 50, 90. Two connected peaks on 
the Continental Divide. Head of Fraser glacier, a 
source of Astoria river. S. of Dungeon peak. 

1919 H. Palmer, R. H. Chapman, and A. Carpe. 
The higher westerly peak was ascended by this party from a 
camp at the S. end of the Amethyst lakes. Descend through the 
woods to the stream from Fraser glacier (i}i hrs.) and ascend lat- 
ter along the true right side. Cross easy ice below the icefall, 
mounting a steep snow-slope and along the lowest rocks of the 
E. peak (3>^ hrs.) to the upper ice plateau. Traverse this and 
ascend glacier towards the rounded crest of rock that occurs on 
the S. arete of the W. peak. Concealed moulins and crevasses 
should be guarded against here. After reaching the main S, 
arete (4^ hrs.), ascend same to summit (much loose shale and 
scree) i>^ hrs. Total elapsed time 6^ hrs. Descent via the 



RAMPART GROUP 147 



same route {^)4 hrs). Total time (i i X hrs.). A snow-ice arete, 
probably passable, connects the W. "Fraser" peak with the lofty 
snow-cap beyond that dominates the Rampart group. Probably 
the E. "Fraser" peak may also be climbed by a slight variant 
of the route described above. 

Mt. Geikie. 10854'. C. A. J., iv, p. 11, 72; x, p. 
75. J. P., p. 51, 84, 86, 90. A. J., xxxiii, p. 147. W. 
of Continental Divide five miles from the Fraser river, 
between Turret and Barbican peaks. Base .may be 
approached via Meadow creek (no trail) and Tonquin 
pass. The route is about 25 miles from Jasper station. 
This mountain has the appearance at close quarters of 
being exceedingly difficult. It is one of the grandest 
rock peaks in the entire chain. 

Postern Mt. ca. 9500'. W. of Continental Divide. 
S. W. of Bastion peak. 

Redoubt Peak. 10200'. C. A. J.,x, p. 75. J. P., 
p. 47, 52, 91. Continental Divide. . Adjoins Dun- 
geon peak on N. vS. E. of Bastion peak. W. of 
Tonquin valley and Amethyst lakes. 

Turret Peak. loioo'. C. A. J., x, p. 75. J. P., p. 

59, 91. W. of Continental Divide. Adjoins Bastion 
peak on the W. Between the latter peak and Mt. 
Geikie. 

Vista Peak. 9155'. J. P., p. 50, 59, 91. Conti-^ 
nental Divide. N. W. of Tonquin pass. 



148 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

Unnamed, ca. loooo'. On Continental Divide 
between Dungeon peak and Mt. Fraser; summit of 
arete rising from Surprise point. 

1919 H. Palmer and A. Carpe. 

From a camp near the outlet of Amethyst lakes ascend the slopes 
around the northerly base of Surprise point and a narrow glacier- 
filled gulch leading to the arete immediately W. of Surprise point 
(i>2 hrs.). Follow the jagged arete W. to base of peak (i hr.) 
and ascend E. arete (1400') to summit (3X hrs. up; 2 hrs. down). 
Good climbing over moderately difficult rocks and a short snow 
arete. Descend the same way or over steep grassy slopes to the 
glacier in the valley to the S. Total time: 14.5 hrs.; 4.5 hrs. in 
darkness. 

(4) Peaks East of the Continental Divide 

This sub-section embraces the peaks of the range 
extending easterly from the Continental Divide through 
Mt. Erebus and terminating in Mt. Edith Cavell, 
together with certain miscellaneous groups that occur 
between the Continental Divide and the valleys of the 
Miette and Athabasca rivers, south of the railway. 

One of these, the Trident range, is listed separately, 
as it is a compact knot of peaks that stand close to- 
gether, apart from the other mountains. It is situated 
at the source of Portal creek. 

All of this district is covered by the map of Jasper 
Park. 

Mt. Edith Cavell (11033O is the loftiest summit of 
this region and may prove to be supreme between 
Fortress lake and Yellowhead pass. 



PEAKS EAST OF THE DIVIDE 149 

Alcove Mt. 9200'. J. p., p. 47, 88. S. E. of Ere- 
mite peak at Astoria river sources. 

Angle Peak. 9500'. J. P., p. 47, 88. S. E. of Al- 
cove Mt., at sources of Astoria river. 

Mt. Aquila. 9269'. J. P., p. 86, 88. ' S. of Lectern 
peak, between Portal creek and Astoria river. 

1915 Bridgland Survey. Can be reached from The Portal, 14 mi. 
S. of Jasper. 

Mt. Basilica. 9400'. J. P., p. 59, 88. E. of Con- 
tinental Divide. S. W. of Roche Noir. Forum group 
between Meadow and Clairvaux valleys. 

Blackhorn Peak. 9800'. C. A. J., x, p. 74. J. P., 

p. 46, 88. E. of Continental Divide. S. W. of 
Throne Mt. N. of Campus pass. 

Mt. Edith Cavell. 1 1033'. (LeDtic, FUzhugh, Geikie). 
A. J., xxviii, p. 367-8. C. A. J., iv, p. 63; vi, p. 92; viii, 
p. 136; X, p. 74. J. P., p. 42, 84, 86, 89. E. of Conti- 
nental Divide. S. angle between Astoria and Whirl- 
pool rivers. N. E. of Verdant pass. 

1915 E. W. D. Holway, A. J. Gilmour. 

From Jasper station, by way of the Athabasca and Astoria rivers 
to Verdant pass, leading to the Whirlpool river, (two days). 
Prom camp on S. side of the pass, ascend cliffs of the peak adjoin- 
ing Mt. Edith Cavell on W., and, from the depression between 
the two, follow the narrow arete to the corniced summit of the 
latter. Ascent: carrip to top of cliffs, 2,5 hrs.; to summit, 6.5 hrs. 



I50 - YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

Chak Peak. 91 14'. J. P., p. 49, 86, 89. Between 
Mt. Aquila and (N. of) Astoria river. E. of Astoria pass. 

19 1 5 Bridgland Survey. Reached from head of Portal creek, 
about 16 mi. by trail from Jasper. 

Mt. Chevron. 9300'. C. A.J., x, p. 74. J. P., p. 

89. S. E. of Blackhorn peak. S. of Buttress and 
Beryl lakes. (Verdant creek). 

Mt. Clitheroe. 9014'. J. P., p. 50, 86, 89. E. of 

Tonquin valley and Amethyst lakes. N. W. of Mt. 
Maccarib. (8707'). 

19 1 5 Bridgland Survey. May be reached via the W. shoulder, 
2 mi. W. of Maccarib pass (Portal creek to Meadow creek). 
About 20 mi. by trail from Jasper station. 

Mt. Curia. 9300'. J. P., p. 51, 89. S. of Mt. 
Basilica. Forum group, between Meadow and Clair- 
vaux valleys. 

Erebus Mt. 10234'. C. A. J., x, p. 74. J. P., p. 

47, 49, 53, 82. Highest peak of the Eremite cirque, 
at Astoria river sources. N. W. of Eremite Mt. 

Eremite Mt. 95oo^ J. P., p. 47, 89. On or just 
E. of Continental Divide. Head of Eremite glacier. 
S. E. of Mt. Erebus. N. W. of Alcove Mt. 

Franchere Peak. 9225'. J. P., p. 86, 90. W. bank 
of Astoria river. N. W. of Mt. Edith Cavell. E. of 
Chak peak. S. of Mt. Aquila. 



TRIDENT RANGE 151 



Lectern Peak. 9095'. C. A. J., vi, p. 78, 92; x, p. 
73. J. P., p. 39, 46, 48, 86, 90. S. angle between 
Portal creek and Astoria river. 

1 9 13 G. E. Howard, A. L. Mumm, M. Inderhinen. Partial 
ascent. May be reached from camp at junction of Portal and 
Circus valleys, 14 mi. by trail from Jasper station. 

Roche Noir. 9594'. J. P., p. 51, 86, 90. N. E. of 

Mt. Basilica, between Meadow and Clairvaux valleys. 
Base may be reached by way of Miette and Meadow 
valley trails; about 13 mi. from Jasper. 

Oldhorn Mt. 9779'. J. P., p. 46, 49> 5i» 86, 91. 

S. E. of Mt. Maccarib (8707'): between this peak 
and Astoria river. Base may be reached from the 
head of Portal ci-eek, 16 mi. by trail from Jasper or 
from Amethyst lakes in Tonquin valley. 

Outpost Peak. 9100'. J. P., p. 47, 91. E. of Con- 
tinental Divide. S. E. of Mt. Eraser. ^ 

Throne Mt. 10144'. J. P., p. 42, 91. S. W. angle 
between Verdant creek and Astoria river. N. E. of 
Blackhorn peak. N. of Buttress and Beryl lakes. 

(a) The Trident Range. 

Mt. Estella. 10069'. J- P-» P- 45» 89. Head of 
Circus valley, adjoining Mt. Majestic on N. E. S. W, 
of Manx Mt. 



152 YELLOWHEAD BASS REGION 

Mt. Fortalice. 9300'. J. P., p. 90. N. W. of 
Manx Mt. E. of Crescent creek. 

Mt. Majestic. 10125'. C. A. J., x, p. 73. J. P., 

p. 45, 49, 50, 86. The highest peak of the Trident 
group, at the head of Circus valley; N. W. of junction 
of Circus and Portal creeks. Base may be reached 
from Jasper by way of Whistlers creek, Marmot pass, 
and the head of Portal valley. 

Manx Mt. 9987'. C. A. J., x, p. 73. J. P., p. 84, 

86, 90. N. E. of Mt. Estella. S. of Whistlers pass. 
May be reached from camp at head of Whistlers valley, 
10 mi. by trail from Jasper. 

1920 R. T. Chamberlin and another. 

Mt. Terminal. 9300^ J. P., p. 91. W. buttress 
of Marmot pass, (Whistlers creek to Portal creek). 
E. of Manx Mt. " . 

Vertex Peak. 9700'. J. P., p. 45, 91. Head of 
Circus valley. Adjoins Mt. Majestic on S. E. Base 
may be reached from the Junction of Portal and Circus 
valleys, 16 mi. from Jasper station, 




Reproduced from "A Guide to Jasper Park" by courtesy o/ the Dept. of 

the Interior 



SECTION XXIII 
Yellowhead Pass to Moose Pass 

(Athabasca-Fraser Divide, North) 
(i) Yellowhead Pass and Peaks on the Divide 

Yellowhead pass (3727') is the lowest depression 
cr ssing the Continental Divide between the United 
States Boundary and Peace River pass. It was 
discovered about 1826 and its easy gradients made it 
extremely useful in the transport of heavy loads of 
dressed leather to the territory west of the mountains. 
In local history it is almost as famous as the Athabasca 
pass. The completion of two transcontinental 
railroads through the pass in 1 914-15 threw open an 
enormous area of alpine country and facilitated the 
conquest of Mt. Robson (13068') the monarch of 
the whole Canadian Rocky chain. 

Between Yellowhead pass and Moose pass the dis- 
tance is about twenty-eight miles in a direct line. 
The Continental Divide pursues a tortuous course 
along the somewhat featureless ridges of an upland 
parklike country. Mt. Upright (9700') is the prin- 

153 



154 YELLOWHEAb PASS REGION 

cipal peak on the Divide, which is crossed by no less 
than seven passes. As a whole, the country of the 
Divide does not call for special mention, although were 
it removed from the vicinity of grander peaks, its 
craggy crests and glaciers might repay the climber's 
attention. 

The Colonel. 9166'. A. J., xxvi, p. 393. C. A. J., 

iv, p. 25, 2^. Almost on the Continental Divide, in 

angle between Colonel creek and E. branch of Moose 

river. 

191 1 A. O. Wheeler, K. Kain. "No difficulty in reaching the 
summit." 

Mt. Upright. 9700'. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., 
iv, p. 28. Continental Divide. 7 mi. S. E. of Moose 
pass near head of E. branch of Moose river. 

(2) Peaks East of the Continental Divide 

The mountains included hereunder are scattered 
throughout a large area, perhaps forty miles square, in 
the upper basins of the Snake Indian (Stony) river and 
the Snaring river, both tributaries of the Athabasca. 
The district lies to the north and west of Jasper and 
has scarcely been explored. None of the peaks are of 
great elevation but there are several groups which dis- 
play alpine characteristics and no doubt- when investi- 
gated in detail, will be found to possess some good 
rock climbs. (A. J., xxvi, p. no. Appal., xiii, p. 241. 
G. J., xxxix, map at p. 313). 



YELLOWHEAD PASS TO MOOSE PASS 155 

Calumet Peak. 976o^ A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. 
J., iv, p. 21. E. of Continental Divide. 3 mi. N. of 
head of Calumet creek, a tributary of the Smoky 
river. 

Cliff Mt. 9000'. J. P., p. 89 Head of Cobblestone 
creek, N. E. of Snaring river. S. E. of Mt. Whitecap. 

Mt. Consort. 9460'. C. A. J.,x, p. 89. J. P., p. 

89. N. E. of Mt. Monarch. W. angle between N. and 
S. forks of Snaring river. 

Diadem Peak. 9615'. C. A. J.,x, p. 76. J. P., 

p. 89. W. angle between N. and S. forks of the Snar- 
ing river. • Separated from Mt. Consort by Unnamed 
peak, 9395'. 

Hoodoo Peak. 9000'. A. J., xxvi, p. 14. Appal., 
xii, p. 343. C. A. J., iv, p. 137. G. J., xxxix, p. 228. 
E. of Continental Divide. Head of Middle Fork of 
the Stony river. W. of Stony-Smoky pass. 

191 1 J. N. Collie, A. L. Mumm, M. Inderbinen. 

Ascended via the W. face. A rock climb. The last 4-500' 

difficult. 

Monarch Mt. 95oo^ C. A. J.,x, p. 76. J. P., p. 

57, 90. Head of S. fork of Snaring river, head of Derr 
creek. 

Mt. Pamm. ca. loooo'. C. A. J., vi, p. 189. 
Sierra Club Bulletin (1918), vol. x, 272. E. of 



156 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

Continental Divide. N. W. of Moose pass. Ad- 
joins Calumet peak on N. W. 

1913 D. Phillips, L. Jeffers, and others. 

A snow peak of Uttle difficulty or danger except for crevasses. 

An easy climb from Moose pass. 

Pyramid Mt. 9076'. C. A. J., iv, p. 9. J. P., p. 

56, 57, 83, 91. A. J., xxvi, p. 385. 6 mi. N. W. of 
Jasper station. 

191 1 G. B. Kinney, K. Kain. 

May be reached in one day from Jasper, by the wagon road to 
Pyramid lake. There is no trail beyond the lake and a way must 
be forced through burnt timber. Above timberline the climb is 
over scree and broken rock. 

Unnamed. 9395'. J. P., Sheet #3. Between Dia- 
dem peak and Mt. Consort. 

Mt. Whitecap. 9400'. J. P., 72, 91. Between S. 
branch of the Snake Indian 'river and Snaring river. 
N. W. of Cliff Mt. 










Twin 
Trfe \ , 
LaKe 



Mt.ROBSON GROUP 

AND ADJACENT GROUPS 
North of Yellovi/headi Pass 



/ifi^roafi/cei)/ Jf>y coi/r^esy of fAe 
A/7>tfn<^air Sfoarctiofy/ca/ Soe/irfy 
BroiTc/>t/ay erf /SStrs^. A/eiv yarACtty. 



^<t: 









V ^f^r t//ptf ef/r 






/■..' 






," -A 







SECTION XXIV 
Moose Pass to Jarvis Pass 

(Fraser-Peace Divide) 

For convenience are included in a single section 
the named groups of mountains that are scattered 
along the Continental Divide west and north of Moose 
pass between the drainage of the Peace and Fraser 
rivers. They are : the Robson group, the Whitehorn 
group, the Longstaff group, the Bess group, and the 
Sir Alexander group. 

(i) The Robson Group 

Chief of these in interest is the Robson group, which 
occupies an area ten miles square in the angle between 
the Fraser river and its Grand Fork tributary. To the 
north and east, branches of the Smoky and Moose 
rivers form the boundaries. These valleys and their 
connecting passes separate the group from the neigh- 
boring ranges and give it a distinct unit character, rare 
amongst the higher Rockies. 

The Continental Divide traverses only a small part 

157 



158 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

of the group, cutting a wedge-shaped segment off the 
the northerly corner between Moose and Robson 
passes. At the point of the wedge stands Lynx Mt. 
(10471') the only peak of consequence on the Divide. 
Mt. Robson with the cirque which connects it to Lynx 
Mt., is entirely in British Columbia, but, should the 
drainage from Robson glacier shift from "its present 
course to Berg lake across Robson pass into the Smoky 
river, as was the case a few years ago, the Continental 
Divide would be transferred to the highest peak of 
the Canadian Rockies. Should the Robson glacier at 
any time divide its drainage between the Fraser and 
Smoky rivers, a very interesting question of boundary 
demarcation would be presented. 

The group supports numerous glaciers, of which the 
Robson and the Coleman are the longest, about five 
miles each. 

Robson pass, 3J/2 rniles north of the mountain and 
30 miles northwest of Yellowhead pass, can be reached 
from the railway with horses in a single day and forms 
a convenient camping ground for many ascents. 

The Helmet. 11160'. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., 
iv, p. 19. W. of Continental Divide; the snow dome 
of the N. E. arete of Mt. Robson. 

Mt. Kain. 9392'. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J.,iv, 
p. 22. W. of Continental Divide. 3 mi. N. of 
Resplendent railway station S. of Resplendent valley. 



THE ROB SON GROUP 159 

Lynx Mt. lo^yi' . A. J., xxvi, p. 390. C. A. J., iv, 
19, 254. Continental Divide. E. margin of Robson 
glacier. S. buttress of Titkana pass. 

191 1 A. O. Wheeler, K. Kain. Partial ascent to 9542'. Via 
Titkana pass and W. margin of Reef neve, a steep climb of 1500' 
leads to the N. arete which ascends sharply to a rocky peak with a 
snow cornice on the Robson glacier side. The principal peak 
has been ascended but particulars are lacking. 

Mt. Mowatt. 9293'. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., 
iv, p. 59. W. of Continental Divide. N. E. angle 
between Moose and Eraser rivers. 

191 1 A. O. Wheeler, K. Kain. 

Via Grant Brook from Grant Brook railway station. 

Rearguard. 9000'. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., 
iv, p. 19, 254. S. W. of Continental Divide. Cul- 
minates the N. E. arete of Mt, Robson. 

19 14 Alpine Club of Canada. (No earlier record). 
From the Robson glacier via the S. scree slopes. 

Mt. Resplendent. 11 173'. A. J., xxvi, p. 390. C. 
A. J., iii, p. 173; vi, p. 65. S. W. of Continental 
Divide. S. E. of Mt. Robson. Between Robson glacier 
and Resplendent valley. An attempted ascent was 
made by Collie and Mumm in 1910 (A. J.,xxv, p. 467). 

191 1 B. Harmon, K. Kain. 

Route I. From Robson pass ascend the Robson glacier, passing 
to E. of the icefall and close to the base of the Extinguisher: (2 
hrs.). Continue toward the head of the cirque, keeping near the 



i6o YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

base of the " Dome" (Mt. Robson), then, after the crevasses are 
passed, bear S. E. and ascend to crest of snow-slopes which join the 
N. W. ar^te and thence to summit (6 hrs.). Descent 3- 3>^ hrs. 

Route 2. As in Route i, to the base of the Extinguisher. Con- 
tinue a half mile further and then bear sharply E., following rocks 
to the arete joining Lynx Mt, with Mt. Resplendent (5 brs.). 
The rocks are often iced and several difficult pinnacles should be 
traversed to W. Turn S., cross the intervening saddle and 
follow ice-and-snow arete (2 hrs.) to the final 1000' snow dome 
(i hr.). Ascent by Route 2, 8 hrs. 

Mt. Robson.' {Yuh-hai-has-kim) . I3o68^ A. 
J., xxvi, p. 382; xxviii, p. 35; xxxii, p. 393. Appal., xii, 
p. 112. C. A.J.,ii, #i,p. i; #2,p. 2,2i;iv, p. 2;x, p. 
22. G. J., xxxvi, p. 57. Co., p. 322, 334, 349, 355. 
W. of Continental Divide. 8 mi. N. of Robson 
station. Head of Grand Fork of the Fraser river. S. 
of Berg lake and Robson pass. 

19 13 A. H. MacCarthy, W. W. Foster, K. Kain. 

Route I. Via the S. E. arete. From' camp on the margin of the 

^ The first reference in literature to Mt. Robson appears to be 
the following which is quoted from The Northwest Passage by Land 
by Milton and Cheadle, published in 1865: "On every side the 
snowy heads of mighty hills crowded round, whilst, immediately 
behind us, a giant among giants, and immeasurably supreme, rose 
Robson's peak. This magnificent mountain is of conical form, 
glacier-clothed, and rugged. When we first caught sight of it, a 
shroud of mist partially enveloped the summit, but this presently 
rolled away, and we saw its upper portion dimmed by a necklace 
of light feathery clouds, beyond which its pointed apex of ice, 
glittering in the morning sun, shot up far into the blue heaven 
above, to a height of probably loooo or 15000 feet. It was a 
glorious sight, and one which the Shush waps of The Cache 
assured us had rarely been seen by human eyes, the summit being 
generally hidden by clouds." 



THE ROB SON GROUP i6i 



Robson glacier, at the base of tlie Extinguisher, proceed W. and 
ascend the broken E. wall (ice and snow) to the summit of the 
"Dome" (10098'). Descend slightly to the bergschrund at the 
foot of the main E. wall of Mt. Robson. Cross the schrund and 
ascend the steep slope of rock and ice (60-65°; step-cutting) to 
the S. E. shoulder at 10500' (8>4 hrs.). Follow the arete towards 
the W. by means of steps cut just below the crest on the S. W. 
side. Ascend the ^ main peak via very steep terraces of snow 
and ice on the S.E. face. This portion of the climb requires the 
cutting of about 600 steps. Descend via the ice slopes to the 
shoulder of the S. E. arete and then, instead of going down the E. 
wall as in the route of ascent, follow the E. margin of the glacier 
to the S. and gain the rocks tc^ the E. of it by a precarious pas- 
sage through a steep crevasse and bergschrund (dangerous). A 
bivouac hereabouts {ca. 9000') may be necessary. Next ensues 
a descent of 800' (3 hrs., difficult) over a very rotten step-and- 
wall formation, then a traverse on a narrow ledge beneath a 500' 
cli.f of hanging glacier, followed by another traverse on the S. 
ridge, whence long shale slopes lead down to Lake Kinney. As- 
cent 13 hrs.; descent to Lake Kinney, about 9 hrs. 

The second printed reference to ]Mt. Robson is probably the 
following extracted from a report by A. R. C. Selwyn, Director of 
the Geological Survey of Canada, in the Report of Progress for 
1871-1872 at page 44. Under date of October 22,, 1871, he states 
that Mr. Baltzly was not able to get a photograph of "the magni- 
ficent mountain, Robson's peak (Milton 8c Cheadle, p. 252) which 
stands in the angle made by the Eraser Grand Forks, and rises 
with mural precipices to a height of two or three thousand feet 
{sic.) above the river. Yesterday it was cloudless, and presented 
a truly splendid picture, while today it has been wreathed in 
mist and capped with clouds. Our Indian told us that their 
name for this mountain signified "The lines in the rocks." The 
whole face of the mountain and its various spurs and buttress-like 
projections in their upper portions, are marked out in horizontal 
lines, due to the unequal weathering and to the varying color 
and texture of the strata, which apparently consist of alternating 
calcareous and siliceous bands." 



i62 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

1909 G. B. Kinney, D. Phillips. 

Route 2. Attempt via the W. arete. Camp at W. end of Berg lake. 
Go up cliffs and narrow ledges of the N. shoulder to a big shale 
slope on the N. W. side of the mountain. Thence ascend over 
cliffs and shale to the top of the W. shoulder, 10500' and camp. 
From this point, work S. (E.?) over snow and steep rock, several 
ridges of the W. face being crossed to the first of two cliffs which 
form horizontal ramparts all around the peak. This is ascended 
without difficulty and steep snow slopes above are crossed to the 
second rampart which also must be surmounted. Above this, 
very steep snow-slopes (60°) and broken rock are climbed to a 
point near the summit, which is heavily corniced "on the N. side. 
On this occasion the final portion of the snow-and-ice dome was 
not ascended. (The party of 19 13 was the first to reach the 
summit of the mountain.) Ascent 135^ hrs. 

1913 B. S. Darling, H. H. Prouty, W. Schauffelberger. 
Route J. Attempt via the W. arete. From a camp one-half mile 
above Emperor falls, ford the river, ascend the sloping terrace of 
scree to the great talus pile 2 mi. wide and 2000' high and cross 
same (2 hrs.) to a camp at 8500' near the avalanche fan. The 
following day traverse the avalanche fan and across a yellow band 
of rock to the crest of the W. arete at 8400'. The first 500' of the 
ridge is rotten yellow rock, but the remainder is firmer gray and 
black rock. Ascend over the staircase formation of the ridge for 
12 hrs, to the ice cap at 12000'. Here step-cutting commences; 
at 12500' the ridge narrows and is hemmed in by terrific cornices 
on both sides so that alternate faces of the arete (50-60°) have to 
be utilized. To a point 400' below. the summit (6.15 f.m.) 14 hrs. 
were consumed. Descending, a bivouac was made at iiooo'. 
Next day the ridge was descended for 500' and a traverse made 
across its S. face to the great couloir of the S. W. face at 10200.' 
This was descended to about 9000' where the yellow rock was 
retraversed N. to the bivouac at 8500' (8>^ hrs.), the expedition 
consuming three whole days. This route is probably the most 



THE ROB SON GROUP 163 

sporting way to the top and is one of the finest rock cHmbs in 
Canada. 

1913 A. H. MacCarthy, K.Kmn and B. S. Darling, W. Schauffel- 
herger. 

Route 4. Attempt via the S. W. arete. Two ropes. One mile 
below foot of Berg lake at 5500' ascend a steep clay slope and a 
rock-step couloir to the first broad ledge below the gray slate 
bluffs at 6600' (i hr.). Proceeding along the ledge fcr 200 yards, 
a second couloir of scree and rock steps 1000' high gives access 
to the second broad ledge below the yellow band of rock at 7600' 
(i hr. more). Following this ledge S. W. for 'jA mi. climb a Y- 
shaped couloir (400') in the course of a waterfall to the third 
ledge at 8000' (45 min.). Advancing then along the base of the 
great talus slope for i hr., a small glacier surrounded by high mo- 
raines is reached and in >^ hr. more, the bottom of the "Wish- 
bone" (W.) arete. Traversing around this {% hr.), a camp is 
made on the arete just before reaching the great couloir of the S. 
W. face. Next day the couloir is traversed on the yellow bands 
and the glacier reached at 8600' (2 hrs.). Ascending the rocks 
beside the glacier, 1700' were climbed the first hour. At 10500' 
the glacier overtopped the ar^te so that a traverse had to be made 
beneath ice cliffs. Above the cliffs the final dome of the mountain 
is attained at 12500' where the route joins that from the ,S. E. 
(5>^ hrs. from foot of arete). Descent to same place, 5>^ hrs.; 
thence direct to Lake Kinney, 2}i hrs. Total descent, 9000' in 
%}i hrs. This route will probably be the stock route for the 
ascent of Mt. Robson as it is perfectly straightforward going 
throughout. 

Titkana Peak. {Snowbird, Ptarmigan.) 9320'. 
A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., iv, p. 37. Co., p. 319. 
Continental Divide. S. E. buttress of Robson pass. 
N. of Titkana pass: (Robson glacier to Reef neve). 
1908 L. Q. Coleman. 



1 64 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

(2) The Whitehorn Group 

The Whitehorn group faces Mt. Robson and its 
satellites across the valley towards the west and 
north, extending for some ten miles in an irregular 
curve from Robson pass to and beyond Mt. Whitehorn 
(iiioi'), the dominating peak. The Divide follows 
the range from Robson pass to Mt. Resolution and 
then descends the west face of the latter to Swift 
Current pass and glacier which bound the group on 
that side. Between Mt. Mumm and Mt. Resolution 
occur three or four peaks (9000-10000'), without 
accepted names or altitudes, which have probab- 
ly all been ascended, though published data are 
lacking. 

Two mountaineer passes cross the crest-line of the 
group, one about a mile west of Mt. Mumm leading 
to the Mural glacier, the other between Mt. White- 
horn and Mt. Resolution, giving access (difficult) to 
the upper Swift Current glacier. - 

Access to the group is best had from the Grand Forks 
valley. 

Mt. Gendarme. gSoy'. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. 
J., iv, pp. 34, 154. E. of Continental Divide. N. W. 
of Mumm peak. Head of Mural glacier. 

191 1 A. O. Wheeler, K. Kain. 

Route I. From Berg lake, via the col on the Divide W. of Mumm 

peak, leading to the Mural glacier. 

Roue 2. From the Smoky river, via the Mural glacier. 



THE WHITEHORN GROUP 165 

Mumm Peak. 9740'. A. J., xxv, p. 467; xxvi, p. 
10. Appal., xii, p. 341. C. A. J., iii, p. 173; vii, p. 63. 
G. J., xxxix, p. 226. Continental Divide. N. buttress 
of Robson pass. This seems to be the peak alluded to 
in the references as 10700' high. 

19 10 J. N. Collie, A. L. Mumm, M. Inderhinen. 
From Robson pass, via scree slopes of S. E. face. Snow-slopes 
and a short chimney just below the summit. Ascent from Rob- 
son pass, 4 hrs. 

Mt. Resolution. {Borland.) 10650'. A. J., xxv, 
p. 467; xxvi, p. 10. Appal., xii, p. 341 ; XV, p. 9. C. A. 
J., iii, p. 173. G. J., xxxix, p. 226. On Continental 
Divide, N. end Whitehorn range. 

1910 J. N. Collie, A. L. Mumm, M. Inderhinen, S. Stephens, G. 
Swain, J. Yates. ' 

Route I. From a camp near timberline N. W. of Berg lake, over 
the E. glaciers of the peak. 

1916 E. W. D. Holway, H. Palmer and A. J. Gilmour. 
Route 2. From the west. Starting from a camp W. of the tongue 
of Swift Current glacier at the head of Swift Current creek, the 
main glacier was followed to a small glacier issuing from a pocket 
of the S. W. slope. A crevassed icefall of this glacier was as- 
cended, then a steep snow curtain which led to the snowy domed 
summit (8 hrs.); altitude by barometer, 10650'; descent, 3 hrs. 

Saurian Peak. 9450'. C. A. J., vi, pp. 238, 254. 

Adjoins Mumm peak on S. W. 

19 13 W. E. Stone, W. Schauffelberger, and two others. 
From the valley N. of the main ridge, via rock and snow of the N. 
arete. The last 100' below the sum.mit are ascended by means 
of short rock faces and chimneys. The descent into the valley on 



1 66 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

the south side of the ridge is through two chimneys. Then ensues 
talus under high diffs. 

Mt. Whitehorn. iiioi'. A. J.,xxvi, p. 382. C. 
A. J.,iv, p. 47;vi, pp. 49, 52, 55. S. of Continental 
Divide. S. E. of Mt. Longstaff. W. of Valley of a 
Thousand Falls. 

191 1 K. Kain. 

Route I. From Rob son pass, camp at head of Valley of a Thou- 
sand Falls. Ascend steeply through underbrush and over boulders 
to the glacier which is crossed over the icefall in a W. direction to 
the foot of the E. wall. Ascend via the upper, crevassed glacier 
to the col (Whitehorn pass), cross -same and descend to the W. 
glacier which is traversed to the W. arete. Cross the crest of the 
arete and ascend by way of the rocks on its S. side to within 200' 
of the summit, where a steep wall necessitates a short traverse on 
snow and ice. Then up a difficult 10' chimney to the top. 
Ascent, 12 hrs. 

Route 2. In 1 9 13, on the occasion of the 3rd ascent of the peak, a 
large party under the guidance of K. Kain traversed the peak, 
descending by the S. E. glacier and • traversing N. E. along the 
Valley of a Thousand Falls to the route of ascent as above. (C. A. 
J., vol. vi, p. 55.) 

Unnamed, ca. loooo'. A. J., xxviii, p. 356. C. A. 
J., vi, p. 238. Northernmost point of Continental 
Divide between Mt. Gendarme and Mt. Resolution. 

1913 A. L. Mumm, F. C. Godsal, Miss P. Pearce, M. InderUnen. 
Over rocks and crevassed glacier from Robson pass. 

(3) The Longstaff Group 

The Longstaff group stands opposite the Whitehorn 
group on the W. across the b^siij of §wift Ciirrejjt 



THE LONGSTAFF GROUP 167 

glacier. It comprises a line of heavily glacier-cov- 
ered peaks about 10 miles long, of which Mt. Long- 
staff (10500O is the chief. The basin of Small river 
bounds the group on the W. N. W. of Mt. Longstaff 
stand two nameless virgin peaks upwards of 9700' 
high, while on the southerly side along the crest-line 
of th€ range are four others, in altitude about 9400', 
9800', 9300', 9330', named from N. to S. The first two 
were ascended by Messrs. Holway and Gilmour in 
1 91 5 from a camp on Small river. The third (9300') 
was climbed in 191 6 from the Swift Current glacier by 
the same party with the addition of H. Palmer. 
(Appal,, vol. XV, p. II.) 

The group is noteworthy as containing what is 
probably the largest continuous glacial area between 
the Columbia icefield and Mt. Chown, 20 square miles 
in extent. The snowy areas of the Longstaff group 
and the adjoining Whitehorn group taken together 
must aggregate upwards of 30 square miles. 

From Mt. Resolution the Continental Divide 
crosses the icefield in a N. W. direction to the N. end of 
the Longstaff range, where it bends back upon ilself 
for a space and then swings N. to the Mt. Bess group. 
The main Swift Current glacier, S. of the Divide, has an 
extreme length of about 6 mi. being approximately ^ 
of a mile in width. A sizable tributary joins it from 
the S. E. slopes of Mt. Longstaff. The total area of 
the glacier is 14 square miles. 

Access to the group is difficult, Probably the best 



1 68 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

approach from the railway is via Swift Current creek, 
up which pack horses could be taken (considerable axe- 
work) to the amphitheater below the glacier tongue. 

Mt. Longstaff. 10500'. Appal., xv, p. i. A. J., 
xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., iv, p. 35; vii, p. 65; viii, p. 133. 
S. W. of Continental Divide. N. W. of Mt. White- 
horn. Between sources of Small and Swift Current 
rivers . 

1916 E. W. D. Holway, H. Palmer, A. J. Gilmour. 

From Fraser river valley, via Swift Current river. Camping at 

5800' W. of tongue of Swift Current glacier, follow the ice to the 

E. ridge over which the summit may be gained without difficulty 

(7 hrs.). Descend by the same route (5 hrs.). 

1915. The mountain was attempted from the W. by E. W. D. 

Holway and A. J. Gilmour. Ascending steep rocks from the 

bottom of the Small river valley, they attained the N. W. ridge at 

about 9700'. Here an ice-slope blocked the way and they had to 

turn back when but 100' below the summit. 

(4) The Bess Group 

This rather small group of three important moun- 
tains is situated on the Continental Divide 25 miles 
N. W. of Mt. Robson and N. of Bess pass. It has 
not as yet been adequately surveyed so that the 
altitudes are somewhat uncertain. Only tw^o of the 
high peaks have been climbed. Ir contains an 
immense glacier said to be between 30 and 40 square 
miles in extent. 

The group may be reached from the railway via 



THE BESS GROUP 169 



Robson pass in about 4 days or by way of Moose river, 
Moose pass, and the Smoky river trail (5-6 days). 
It is also accessible from Jasper by way of the Snake 
Indian (Stony) river, and the pass at the head of its 
middle fork leading into the Smoky river. About 14 
days of traveling by pack train is required by this 
route. 

Mt. Bess. 10468'. (11300?). A. J., xxvi, p. 14. 
Appal., xii, p. 347. C. A. J., iv, pp. 34, 137; vii, p. 98. 
G. J., xxxix, p. 231. Bull. Am. Geog. Soc, vol. xlvii, p. 
482. Continental Divide N. of Bess pass (Beaver river 
to Smoky river) . 

191 1 A. L. Mumm, J. N. Collie, M. Inderhinen. 
From Bess pass: , . 

Route I. Via the S. face. Last 2000' up steep snow with occa- 
sional bits of ice and crossing several transverse bands of outcrop- 
ping limestone. Dome-shaped peak with an almost flat top. 
Route 2. Via the W. arete. 

Mt. Chown. 10893'. (11500'?)- C. A. J., vi, pp. 21, 
179, 191. A. J., xxvi, pp. 390, 396 note. Bull. Am. 
Geog. Soc, vol. xlvii, .p. 482. E. of Continental 
Divide. S. W. angle of Short river with Smoky river. 
It is probable that this is the peak triangulated by 
Wheeler at 10893'. This mountain appears not to 
have been climbed. 

Unnamed. (11300'?). A. J., xxvi, p.13. Appal., xii, 
p. 345. C. A. J., iv, p. 137; vii, p. 83. G. J., xxxix, 



170 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 



p. 230. E. of Continental Divide, on W. side of snow- 
field at head of Short river (Glacier creek). N. W. 
of Mt. Bess and of Mt. Chown. 

191 1 A. L. Mumm, J. N. Collie, M. Inderhinen. 
Via Robson pass, Smoky and Short rivers. From a camp near 
the source of Glacier creek, the large glacier and its northerly mar- 
gin were followed. Two miles from the snout is the first icefall 
and I mi. farther, a second fall. The latter is dangerous, al- 
though moderately easy to cross. The glacier and neve are 
crossed for 4 mi. to the base of the peak, ascending the S. arete 
partly over rock and partly over snow. The glacier, as yet 
nameless, is immense. The area of neve is estimated at over 
thirty square miles. 

(5) The Sir Alexander Group 

This incompletely known group includes peaks lying 
on or near the Continental Divide between Meadow 
Lake pass and Jarvis pass, an air-line distance of about 
forty miles. Tne highest peaks lie west of The Divide 
between Jarvis pass and the headwaters of the S. 
branch of the Big Salmon river, culminating in Mt. 
Sir Alexander at about iiooo'. The peaks on the 
Divide itself are lower, averaging 8-9000'. The 
principal passes of this portion of the Divide are 
Meadow lake, Beaver dam, Avalanche, Sheep creek 
and Jarvis, although, owing to the low level of the 
northern section, horses may be taken across the 
Divide at many intermediate points. 

North of the mountain, between it and Mt. Ida, lie 
extensive snowfields ajid sever^,! attractive, though 



THE SIR ALEXANDER GROUP 171 

lower, vSnow peaks. The area of ice around Mt. Sir 
Alexander is estimated at 35 square miles. This 
group and another nameless group of fine snow peaks 
lying to the north of it, at the headwaters of the N. 
branch of the Porcupine river, appear to constitute the 
northerly termination of the truly alpine portion of the 
Canadian Rockies. From the Mt. Joffre group at the 
head of Elk river to this point is 330 miles, as the crow 
flies. The glacier area of this nameless group seems to 
extend for fully 20 miles (Appal., xiii, pp. 255, 256). 
The southern branch of the Wapiti river appears 
to drain a portion of it. 

The general line of approach to Mt. Sir Alexander is 
from Robson pass, via the Smoky river, Jackpine pass 
and river, Jones and Avalanche passes and thence by 
way of passes west of the Divide at the head of Fraser- 
Smoky tributaries to the Big Salmon river (South 
Branch of the North Fork of the Fraser river). Out- 
fits require about fourteen days of steady traveling to 
reach the group from Jasper. On account of the great 
distances involved, it is probable that the Sir Alexander 
group (80 miles N. of Mt. Robson) will hardly prove as 
attractive to the climber as many of the groups farther 
south. 

Mt. Sir Alexander. (Kitchi.) ca. iiooo'. Appal., 
xiii, p. 283; xiv, p. 223. Bull. Am. Geog. Soc, xlvii, p. 
481. C. A. J., vi, pp. 170, 188; vii, p. 82; ix, p. 79. W. 
of Contiiient^l Divide. 80 mj. N, W- of Mt. Robson. 



172 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 

Head of Big Salmon river. (S. E. branch of the N. 
fork of the Fraser river.) 

19 1 5 J. C Tyler, F. Doucette, D. Phillips. To within 100' of 
summit. From the N. via N. E. arete, the lower part being 
broken rock and the upper part ice and snow, much corniced. 

Mt. Ida. ca. loooo'. C. A. J., vi, pp. 177, 196. 

Appal., xiii, pp. 251, 252. W. of Continental Divide. 
S. W. of Jarvis pass. N. of Mt. Sir Alexander. 

Unnamed* ca. loooo'. See Map Bull. Am. Geog. 
Soc, vol. xlvii, p. 481. Continental Divide, S. of 
Beaver Dam pass. 

Other peaks of the Continental Divide, Fortress 
and Thunder, as well as several named peaks W. of 
the Divide such as Koona and Three Sisters, C. A. J., 
vi; Appal., xiii, p. 252, all appear to be under loooo'. 



Mt. Lloyd George, ca. I0000^ Four hundred 
miles N. W. of Mt. Robson at N. E. sources of the Fin- 
lay river between the Finlay arid the Nelson rivers; 
150 miles N. of Peace liver. V'On the Headwaters of 
the Peace River," by P. L. Haworth. Scribner's 
Magazine, June and July, 1917; June, 1920. C. A. J., 
ix, p. 158. 

Although this mountain is situated far away from the known 
portions of the Canadian Rockies, reference is made to it at this 
place for completeness. The route of approach is by canoe from 
Hansard on the Fraser river not far from Prince George. Gis- 



MT. LLOYD GEORGE 173 

come portage, Summit lake, and the Parsnip and Finlay rivers 
are followed to Finlay forks; thence up the Quadacha (White 
Waters) river to the forks of the latter. The Lloyd George gla- 
ciers drain by three tongues into a lake, six or seven miles long, the 
source of the Warneford river, (north fork of the Quadacha). 
From a high ridge, a view was obtained of the region between 
Liard river and Laurier pass. The ranges run parallel with the 
Finlay river. "There was no peak taller than Mt. Robson. 
Much the finest lay far to the N. E. with three great summits, 
two of them peaks, the third and tallest an immense block. Down 
the south slope of it, filling a great valley miles wide and miles 
long there flowed a perfectly immense glistening glacier . . . 
I venture to predict that when the glacier has been more closely 
examined it will be found to be one of the biggest in the whole 
Rocky Mountain system." 



A PRELIMINARY LIST OF THE LOFTIEST TRIANGU- 
LATED PEAKS OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES, 
ARRANGED IN ORDER OF HEIGHT 



ROBSON 

Columbia . 

Twin, North 

Pyramid (estimated) . 

Forbes 

Alberta 

assiniboine 

Goodsir, South Tower 

Twin, South 

Temple 

Goodsir, North Tower 

Bryce 

Douglas Pk. 



Lyell (five peaks) 



Athabasca . 
hungabee . 

HUBER 

Edward VII 
Victoria 
Dome 
Stutfield . 

JOFFRE 

King George 



174 



A PRELIMINARY LIST OF LOFTIEST PEAKS 175 



Deltaform . . . . . . . 11,225 


Lefroy . . 












11,220 


St. Bride . 












11,220 


Alexandra 












11,214 


Sir Douglas 












11,174 


Resplendent 












11,173 


WOOLLEY 












11,170 


Victoria, North 












11,150 


Hector 












11,135 


Whitehorn 












11,101 


Bryce, N, E. Peak 












11,100 


Diadem . . 












11,060 


Edith Cavell 












11,033 


Douglas (Black) 












11,015 



INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 



A 

Aberdeen, Mt., 50 
Abruzzi Mt., 12 
Aiguille Pk., 72 
Alan Campbell, Mt., 99 
Albert, Mt. King, 17 
Albert, Mt. Prince, 19 
Alberta, Mt., 116 
Alcantara, Mt., 27 
Alcove Mt., 149 
Alexander, Mt. Sir, 171 
Alexandra, Mt., 103 
Allenby, Mt., 26 
Amgadamo, Mt., 72 
Amiskwi Pk., 90 
Angle Pk., 149 
Angle Pk., ']2 
Aosta, Mt., 12 
Aquila, Mt., 149 
Arctomys Pk., 108 
Arethusa, Mt., 7 
Aries Pk. , 73 
Armstrong, Mt., 5 
Arras, Mt., 103 
Assiniboine, Mt., 22 
Athabasca, Mt., 116 
Aye, Mt., 23 
Ayesha, Mt., 73 
Aylmer, Mt., 33 

B 

Babel, Mt., 51 
Babel Tower, 52 
Back, Mt., 17 



Baker, Mt., 73 
Balfour, Mt., ']2> 
Ball Mt., 29 
Barbette, Mt., 73 
Barbican Pk., 145 
Baril Pk., 5 
Barlow, Mt., 96 
Barnard, Mt., 93 
Basilica, Mt., 149 
Bastion Pk., 146 
Beatty, Mt., 13 
Beehive Mt., 5 
Bergne, Mt., 95 
Bess, Mt., 169 
Biddle, Mt., 57 
Bident, Mt., 52 
Birdwood, Mt., 15 
Bishop, Mt., 5 
Black Douglas Pk., f 6 
Black Friars, 117 
Blackhorn Pk., 149 
Blackwater Mt., 92 
Blakiston, Mt., 2 
Bonnet Pk., 33 
Boom, Mt.,. 39 
Borgeau, Mt., 31 
Bosworth, Mt., 74 
Bow Pk., 74 
Brachiopod Mt., 85 
Brazeau, Mt., 128 
Breaker, Mt., 74 
Brett, Mt., 31 
Bride, Mt. St., 88 
Brown, Mt., 139-142 
Brussilof, Mt., 27 
Bryce, Mt., 117 



177 



178 



INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 



Bulyea, Mt., 99 
Burgener, Mt., 99 
Burgess, Mt., 74 
Burstall, Mt., 15 
Bush Mt., 103 
Byng, Mt., 26 



Cadorna, Mt., 12 
Cairnes, Mt., 96 
Calumet Pk., 155 
Cambrai, Mt., 104 
Carnarvon, Mt., 74 
Cascade Mt., 33 
Casemate Mt., 146 
Castelets, The, 108 
Castelnau, Mt., 12 
Castleguard, Mt., 108 
Castle Mt., 34 
Cataract Pk., 85 
Cathedral Mt., 58 
Cathedral Crags, 59 
Cautley, Mt., 23 
Cavell, Mt. Edith, 149 
Centurion, The, 27 
Chaba, Mt., 117 
Chak Pk., 150 
Chancellor, Mt., 64 
Charlton, Mt., 130 
Chevron, Mt., 150 
Chown, Mt., 169 
Chimney Pk., 39 
Chisel Pk., 122 
Cirque Pk., 85 
Cliff Mt., 155 
Cline, Mt., 109 
CHtheroe, Mt., 150 
Coleman, Mt., 109 
Collie, Mt., 74 
Collier, Mt., 39 
Colonel, The, 154 
Columbia, Mt., 118 
Consort, Mt., 155 



Consolation Pk., 104 
Conway, Mt., 95 
Copper, Mt., 31 
Cordonnier, Mt., 10 
Cornwell, Mt., 5 
Coronation, Mt., 99 
Costigan, Mt., 34 
Courcelette, Mt., 7 
Cross, Mt., of the, 135 
Crowsnest Mt., 2 
Curia, Mt., 150 
Currie, Mt., 26 
Cyclone Pk., 86 

D 

Daly, Mt., 75 
Darrah, Mt., 3 
Defender, Mt., 12 
Deltaform, Mt., 40 
Dent, Mt., 99 
Despine, Mt , 45 
Deville, Mt., 90 
Devil's Head Mt., 34 
Devil's Thumb, 52 
Diadem Pk., 118 
Diadem Pk., 155 
Dolomite Pk., 86 
Dome, The, 119 
Dorland, Mt., 165 
Douai, Mt., 108 
Douglas, Mt., 119 
Douglas, Mt., 86 
Douglas, Mt. Sir, 14 
Drummond, Mt., 86 
Due, Le, Mt., 149 
Duchesnay, Mt., 59 
Dungeon Pk., 146 
Duplex, Mt., 104 

E 

Ebon Pk., 75 
Eden Pk., 119 
Edith, Mt., 34 



INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 



179 



Edward VII, Mt. King, 119 
Edward, Mt. Prince, 20 
Ego, Mt., 104 
Eiffel Pk., 53 
Eight, Pk., 40 
Elizabeth, Mt. Queen, 18 
Emerald, Mt., 80 
Eon, Mt., 24 
Erebus, Mt., 150 
Eremite, Mt., 150 
Erris, Mt., 3 
Estella, Mt., 151 
Etherington, Mt., 5 
Excelsior Mt., 129 



Fairview, Mt., 53 
Farbus, Mt., 108 
Farquhar, Mt., 5 ' 
Fatigue Mt., 24 
Fay, Mt., 40 
Field, Mt., 75 
Fitzwilliam, Mt., 146 
Fitzhugh, Mt., 149 
Five, Pk., 41 
Foch, Mt., 10 
Forbes, Mt., 104 
Fort Pk., 88 
Fortalice, Mt., 152 
Fortress Mt., 132 
Fortress, The, 172 
Fossil Mt., 86 
Four Pk., 41 
Fox, Mt., 10 
Franchere Pk., 150 
Francis, Mt., 8, 129 
Francklyn, Mt., 63 
Eraser, Mt., 146 
French, Mt., 15 
Freshfield, Mt., 99 
Fresnoy, Mt., 108 



G 

Gable Pk., 106 
Gable Pk., 3 
Galleon, The, 135 
Garth, Mt., 100 
Gass, Mt., 6 
Geikie, Mt., 147 
Gendarme, Mt., 164 
George, Mt. King, 19 
George, Mt. Prince, 20 
Gibraltar Rock, 26 
Gilgit, Mt., 96 
Girouard, Mt., 35 
Glacier Pk., 41 
Gloria, Mt., 24 
Goat, Mt., 53 
Goat's Tower, 27 
Golden Eagle Pk., 105 
Goodsir, Mt., 65 
Gordon, Mt., 76 
Gould Dome, 3, 7 
Green, Mt., 48 

H 

Habel, Mt., 79 
Haddo Pk., 53 
Haiduk Pk., 30 
Hanbury Pk., 66 
Hazel, Mt., 50 
Hector, Mt., 86 
Heejee, Mt., 40 
Helmer, Mt., 97 
Helmet, Mt., 66 
Helmet, The, 158 
Henry, Mt. Prince, 20 
Hole-in-the-Wall Mt., 35 
Hoodoo Pk., 155 
Hooge, Mt., 108 
Hooker, Mt., 139-142 
Howse Pk., 76 
Huber, Mt., 59 
Hungabee, Mt., 42 
Hurd, Mt., 66 



i8o 



INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 



I 


Longstaff, Mt., 168 




Louis, Mt., 35 


Icefall Pk., 104 


Low, Mt., 97 


Ida, Mt., 172 


Lunette Pk., 24 


Indian Pk., 2'j 


Lyall, Mt., 6 


Inglismaldie, Mt., 35 


Lyell, Mt., 106 


Isabelle Pk., 30 


Lyautey, Mt., 11 


Isolated Pk., 76 


Lynx, Mt., 159 


J 


M 


Jellicoe, Mt., 15 


Magog, Mt., 24 


JofEre, Mt., 10 


Majestic, Mt., 152 


John, Mt. Prince, 20 


Mangin, Mt., 11 


Julien, St., Mt., 105 


Manitoba, Mt., 119 




Manx Mt., 152 


K 


Margerie, Mt., 95 




Mariborough, Mt., 11 


Kain, Mt., 158 


Marpole, Mt., -jj 


Katherine, Mt., 28 


Marshal, The, 28 


Kaufmann, Mt., 77 


Mary, Mt. Princess, 20 


Kemmel, Mt., 106 


Mary, Mt. Queen, 20 


Kerkeslin, Mt., 129 


Maude, Mt., 15 


Kerr, Mt., 77 


McArthur, Mt., 78 


King, Mt., 91 


McConnell, Mt., 87 


Kitchi, Mt. , 171 


McCuaig, Mt., 12 


Kiwetinok Pk., jj 


McHarg, Mt., 6 


Koona, Mt., 172 


McLaren, Mt., 6 




McMullen, Mt., 78 


L 


McPhail, Mt., 6 




Mercer, Mt., 27 


La Clytte, Mt., io3 


Messines, Mt., 107 


Lamb3, Mt., 95 


Michael Pk., formerly Angle 


Laussedat, Mt., 97 


Pk., q. V. 72 


Lectern Pk., N., 151 


Midway Pk., 78 


Lefroy, Mt., 44 


Mist Mt., 8 ■ 


Lens, Mt., 106 


Mistaya, Mt., 78 


Le Roy, Mt., 14 


Misty Mt., 122 


Lilliput, Mt., 77 


Mitchell, Mt., 30 


Limestone Pk., 66 


Mitre Pk., 54 


Little, Mt., 44 


Molar, Mt., 87 


Lloyd George, Mt., 172 


MolHson, Mt., 66 


Loomis, Mt., 6 


Monarch, Mt., 32 


Lonespur, Mt., 130 


Monarch, Mt., 155 



INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 


181 


Monchy, Mt., io8 


Onslow, Mt,, 12 




Monro, Mt., 15 


Oppy, Mt., 108 




Mons, Mt., 107 


Outpost Pk., 151 




Morrison, Mt., 27 


Outram, Mt. 107 




Mostyn, Mt., 129 


Owen, Mt., 60 




Mo watt, Mt., 159 


Oyster Pk., 87 




Mt. of the Cross, 135 






Mumm Pk., 165 


P 




Mummery, Mt., 97 
Mummy Pk., 3 
Murchison, Mt., 109 
Murray, Mt., 16 


Pamm, Mt., 155 
Pangman Pk., 100 
Panther Mt., 36 
Park, Mt., 60 




N 


Patterson, Mt., 79 
Peechee, Mt., 36 




Naiset Pk., 28 


Pelee, Mt., 146 




Nanga Parbat, Mt., 98 


Petain, Mt., 11 




Narao Pk., 55 


Peyto Pk., 79 




Nasswald Pk., 25 


Pierce, Mt., 6 




Needles, The, 52 


Pika Pk., 87 




Neptuak, Mt., 45 


Pika Pk., Second, 89 




Nestor Pk., 28 


Pilot Mt., 31 




Niblock, Mt., 55 


Pilkington, Mt., 100 




Nicholas, Mt. St., 79 


Pinnacle, Mt., 55 




Nichols, Mt , 39 


Piran, St., Mt , 56 




Nigel Pk., 129 


Poilus, Mt. des, 79 




Niles, Mt., 79 


Pope's Pk., 45, 55 




Nine, Pk., 45 


Portal Pk., 80 




Nivelle, Mt., 12 


Postern Mt., 147 




Niverville, Mt., 100 


President, Mt., 80 




Noir, Roche, 151 


Prior Pk., loi 




Norquay, Mt ,36 ' . 


Ptarmigan Pk., 87 




Northover, Mt., 11 


Ptarmigan, 163 




Noyes, Mt., no 


Ptolemy, Mt., 3 




Nub Pk., 28 


Putnik, Mt., 16 
Pyramid, Mt., 156 







Pyramid, Pk., 80 




Observation Pk., no 


Pyramid, The, 122 




Odaray, Mt., 60 


Q 




Ogre Pk., 91 


7^ 




Oke, Mt., 66 


Quadra, Mt., 45 




Oldhorn Mt., 151 


Queant, Mt., 108 




Olive, Mt., 79 


Quincy, Mt., 120 




One, Pk., 40 


Query Pk., 103 





1 82 



INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 



R 

Rae, Mt., 8 
Rearguard, Mt., 159 
Red Indian Pk., 91 
Red Man, Mt., 25 
Redburn Pk., 91 
Redoubt, Mt., 88 
Redoubt Pk., 147 
Resplendent, Mt., 159 
Resolution, Mt., 165 
Rhondda, Mt., 81 
Richardson, Mt., 88 
Ringrose Pk., 46 
Robertson, Mt., 15 
Robson, Mt., 160 
Roche Noir, 151 
Rostrum Pk., 104 
Rundle, Mt., 31 
Russel, Mt., 90 



Saddle Pk., 36 
Saknowa, Mt., 40 
Samson Pk., 130 
Sarbach, Mt., 81 
Sarrail, Mt., 11 
Saskatchewan, Mt., 120 
Saurian Pk., 165 
Schaffer, Mt., 61 
Scrimger, Mt., 6 
Sealion, Mt., 91 
Sentinel Mt., 55 
Serenity, Mt., 133 
Seven, Pk,, 4S 
Sharp, Mt., 67 
Shaughnessy, Mt,, 80 
Sheol, 53, 56 
Silverhorn, Mt., iii 
Sirdar, Mt., 130 
Six, Pk., 47 
Skene, Mt., 95 
Smith Dorrien, Mt,, 16 



Smuts, Mt., 16 
Snowbird, Pk., 163 
Solitaire, Mt.,95 
Spencer Mts., 91 
Spike Pk., 91 
Spring Rice, Mt., 108 
Stairway Pk., 81 
Stanley Pk., 32 
Stephen, Mt., 62 
Stephens Mts., 92 
Stewart, Mt., iii 
Storelk, Mt., 6 
Storm Mt., 30 
Strahan, Mt., 96 
Sturdee, Mt., 28 
Stutfield, Pk., 120 
Sulphur, Mt., 37 
Synge, Mt., 82 



Temple, Mt., 56 
Ten, Peak, 50 
Termier, Mt., 96 
Terminal, Mt., 152 
Terrace, Mt., loS 
Terrapin, Mt., 25 
Thompson, Mt., 82 
Three, Pk., 47 
Three Sisters, 32 
Three Sisters, 172 
Throne, Mt., 151 
Thunder, Mt., 172 
Titkana Pk., 163 . 
Tornado, Mt., 7 
Towers, Mt,, 25 
Trapper Pk., 82 
Trolltinder Mt., 82 
Trutch, Mt., 98 
Turner, Mt., 27 
Turret Pk., 147 
Turret Pk., 107 
Tuzo, Mt., 48 
Twins, The, 120 



INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 



183 



Two, Pk., 44 
Tyrwhitt, Mt., 7 ■ 

U 

Unwin, Mt., 130 
Upright, Mt., 154 

V 

Valenciennes, Mt., 108 
Vaux, Mt., 67 
Vavasour, Mt., 18 
Vertex Pk., 152 
Vice-President, Mt., 82 
Victoria, Mt., 48 
Victoria, N. Pk., 49 
Vista Pk., 147 

W 

Walker, Mt., loi 
Wapta, Mt., 83 
Warre, Mt., 18 
Warrior, Mt., 11 
Watchman Pk., loS 
Watchtower, The, 130 
Watson, Mt., 28 
Weed, Mt., in 



Wedgwood Pk., 28 
Wenkchemna Pk., 50 
White, Mt., 37 
Whitecap, Mt., 156 
White Douglas Pk., 8^ 
Whiteaves, Mt., 96 
Whitehorn, Mt., 166 
White Man, Mt., 18 
Whiterose, Mt., 108 
Whymper, Mt., 63 
Whyte, Mt., 57 
Wilcox, Pk., 120 
Willerval, Mt., 108 
Williams, Mt., 15 
Wilson, Mt., Ill 
Wind Mt., 32 
Witches, Pk., 82 
Wonder Pk,, 25 
Woolley, Pk., 120 

Y 

Yoho Pk., 84 
Yukness, Mt., 63 
Yuh-hai-has-kun, 160 



Zillebeke, Mt., 108 
Zinc, Mt., 67 



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